Tuesday, September 30, 2025

Antiques and Food Markets in Puglia

“When is the market in such-and-such town?” is an FAQ that crops up regularly on Facebook expats groups. And this is my answer:

Antique Markets

Antique markets are always held on Sunday morning starting around 10.00. 

1st Sunday of the month: 

  • Bari Vecchia (also Saturday)
  • Grottaglie
  • Nardo
  • San Vito dei Normanni (Exfadda)

2nd Sunday of the month: 

  • Monopoli
  • Ostuni

3rd Sunday of the month: 

  • Cisternino
  • Galatina
  • Martina Franca
  • Mesagne

4th Sunday of the month: 

  • Ceglie Messapica
  • Francavilla Fontana 
  • Lecce (always last Sunday)

Market days
(fruit and veg, clothes, shoes, homewares, etc.)


Monday: 

  • Andria
  • Cisternino
  • Lecce
  • Montalbano
  • San Vito dei Normanni
  • Vieste

Tuesday: 

  • Bisceglie 
  • Carovigno
  • Monopoli
  • Noci

Wednesday: 

  • Fasano
  • Gallipoli
  • Martina Franca
  • Otranto

Thursday: 

  • Alberobello
  • Brindisi
  • Polignano a Mare
  • Porto Cesareo

Friday: 

  • Conversano 
  • Fasano
  • Giovinazzo
  • Locorotondo
  • Lecce (again)

Saturday: 

  • Barletta
  • Castellana Grotte
  • Francavilla Fontana
  • Ostuni
  • Terlizzi

Sunday:

  • Savelletri

Feel free to let me know of any errors or omissions in the comments but this is the list I have.

Friday, September 26, 2025

Friday Night is Music Night

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. September-2025. 

One of the things I like about Cisternino is the amount of live music mostly free. For the last four weeks we have had live jazz on a Friday night courtesy of Bar Fod interspersed with one evening of classical guitar thanks to the Valle D’Itria Guitar Festival.

Bar Fod used to put on a series of Sunday lunchtime concerts in the summer but they were proving a little too hot for the performers. Instead, they switched to Friday evening jazz concerts.

Friday 05-September.

We booked a table and met up with friends for the first of the September concerts following our return from the UK. An excellent pair of musicians - we spent an enjoyable and relaxing hour and a half sipping our wine and being entertained with some cool jazz. 

Claudio Chiarelli /sax
Aldo Di Paolo / piano.

I liked the keyboardist’s shirt clearly inspired by Mondrian with added cats.

Friday 12-September.

The following Friday we had a collection of jazz standards from a lady with a very pleasant voice although we did agree she had a somewhat narrow dynamic range.

Serena Grittani /vocal
Bruno Montrone / piano

Friday, 19 September.

This concert was part of the Valle D’Itria Guitar Festival, mostly held in Martina Franca but this particular concert was in Cisternino. The venue was the evocative Chiesa di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli (aka The church with the skull and crossbones). 

Giovanni Masi / Chitarra.

An award-winning young guitarist, his fingers were flying all over the fretboard. The acoustics in the church were great for such a small intimate concert.

Programma

  • N. Paganini (1782.-1840) 
    • Dalle 37 Sonate per chitarra: Sonata n. 16 - Sonata n. 33
  • M. Castelnuovo-Tedesco (1895-1968) 
    • Capriccio diabolico (Omaggio a Paganini), op. 85
  • G. Sanz (1640-17109 / M. Castelnuovo-Tedesco 
    • Suite Española di Sanz Espanoleta - Gallarda - Villano
    • Escarraman, op. 177 di Castelnuovo-Tedesco "Pesame dello amor..." Danza de las Hachas Rujero y Paradetas
    • Zarabanda al Ayre Español El Rey Don Alfonso el Bueno Canario
  • M. Castelnuovo-Tedesco 
    • Caprichos de Goya, op. 195: No hubo remedio
  • E. Morricone (1928-2020) 
    • Quattro pezzi per chitarra sola: Calmo - Poco più - Andantino - Meno 
    • Nuovo Cinema Paradiso: Prima gioventu
    • Quattro pezzi per chitarra sola Western Suite: IV. Adagio molto.

Friday, 26 September.

The final concert in the series and, by general consensus, the best in terms of quality of the musicianship. They clearly had great rapport and were enjoying themselves. They played two encores at the insistence of the crowd.

Alberto Di Leone / tromba
Antonio Laviero / piano.

Footnote: the title of this blog is a nod to the world's longest-running, live, orchestral music, radio programme on the BBC Friday Night is Music Night .

Thursday, September 25, 2025

Everyday Differences in Puglia: Pomodori Al Filo

Puglia Differences: an occasional series on things that strike this Brit as so very Italian. 

The pomodori al filo (tomatoes on the string) also called pomodori eterni (everlasting tomatoes) are a Salento method of preserving tomato as an alternative to sun-dried tomatoes or passata (see Everyday differences in Puglia: Tomato Bottling). In this method bunches of tomatoes are braided on strings of twine to be hung in cool, dry places. These are usually local varieties such as the Giallo d'Inverno tomato or the Regina tomato, which lend themselves to preservation. This practice allows you to have tomatoes available throughout the winter.

I first learnt about the pomodori al filo from our friend Mino the chef when he appeared on Rick Stein’s Mediterranean Escapes (2007)

In that segment he cooked the traditional orecchietti con cime di rape but his version of the recipe included these pomodori al filo. These are available in a number of the shops around us so we can replicate Mino‘s version.

Sunday, September 07, 2025

Bomminella 2025

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. Saturday/Monday 06/08-September-2025.

In addition to the usual Monday market, once a year we get a bonus market called Bomminella held on the 8th of September. An ancient market originally specialising in agricultural equipment and dating back to the 13th century. It was originally held just outside Porta Piccolo, where Via la Fiera now runs literally under our apartment.

The local tourist board Pro Loco di Cisternino, put on a full timetable leading up to, and including, Bomminella. 

Saturday 06-September.

On the Saturday we went to hear some interesting talks about various aspects of the event including an exhibition of tambourines - a simple peasant instrument often played when dancing the Pizzica. The photographer caught my bald patch nicely.

After the talks we walked round to a photography exhibition in the Torre Grande. Thanks to Mary's distinctive white hair several friends spotted us on the Pro Loco social media.

Turning the black sheep idiom on its head - Be Different!

Sunday 07-September.

Sunday was a market day featuring the normal Monday stalls (clothing, homewares, etc.) but without the fruit and veg. We missed some of the events as they clashed with mealtimes but we could hear and see the music and dancing from our terrace.

Monday 08-September.

On a normal market day, we have clothing stalls outside our front door but for Bomminella their place is taken by a cheese and salami stall.

Down in the old marketplace, where the veg market used to be before Covid moved it down to Piazza dei Navigatori, we get wooden artefacts. Those boards in the picture are special pasta making boards that have a lip which fits over the worktop edge so that, when you are working the dough, the board doesn't slide away from you.

Lots of locally made wicker baskets.

Across from the old veg market is a street and carpark that is normally empty but for this occasion is full of hardware stalls.

Not so much agricultural but more barbecue equipment.

More hardware including, in the foreground, the special prickly pear harvesting gadgets. Like a metal diabolo they are mounted on a pole to pick the fruits.

There was one guy selling real agricultural equipment! A wine press and a harrow.

Down in the vegetable market you can tell that it is melon and pumpkin season - fruit by the pallet-load.

Throughout the day there is music and dancing the Pizzica in the streets.

The Pro Loco Cisternino in Valle d'Itria promoted a t-shirt “Il Cammino Della Pecora” (The Way of the Sheep) with a selection of bars and restaurants on the back with tick boxes to record your pub crawl. The motto “One day, one flock, one walk”. 

The atmosphere is wonderful, with a constant buzz of happy voices and everyone is very friendly. Several people were impressed by us taking part in the pub crawl as we were clearly not native to the town. In truth some of our stops were for coffee or soft drinks so not as bad as it looks!

That evening we dined at Osteria Piatti Chiari which, like many restaurants in town, were offering a traditional Bomminella menu including tripe and a sheep stew made with the scraggiest bits of the animal. Fortunately other options were available.

A historic event and great fun.

Previous Bomminella: [2024], [2022].

Monday, September 01, 2025

BBC Prom 2025: Shostakovich’s Lady Macbeth

Royal Albert Hall, London. Monday 01-September-2025.

Our flight back to Italy was early afternoon on the 2nd September. We were coming down from Penrith by train and decided to avoid any risk of delays and missed flights by travelling the day before. That gave us a free evening in London so Mary booked us tickets for the Proms.

We decided to treat ourselves to the Paddington Hilton so we would have an easy trip to Heathrow on the Paddington Express the next morning.

This hotel was formerly the Great Western Royal Hotel for GWR as evidenced by the tiles in front of the entrance.

The route from the hotel to the Royal Albert Hall took us on a lovely stroll through Hyde Park.

We encountered a Rolls Royce ice cream van but didn't stop for an ice cream as it was closed (boo!)

At the Royal Albert Hall this version of Shostakovich’s “The Lady Macbeth of the Mtsensk District” was a semi staged production. So not a full blown opera version but the singers did move about the stage with various props arrayed and acted out the story rather than simply stand there and sing. A piece we knew nothing about so it was bound to be a surprise.

We had good seats in one of the Loggia boxes in line with the front of the stage and the promenaders at the front of the arena. We booked ourselves some in-house catering: the vegan tapas selection washed down with a couple of glass of white wine. The plot is right out of EastEnders with infidelity, rape, a couple of murders and a double murder / suicide to finish off with!

The Guardian gave it four stars and wrote: "With Nicky Spence and Amanda Majeski the striking leads, the nastiness in Shostakovich’s ‘tragic satire’ was disturbing and powerful in an impressive Proms performance. [...] nothing was more striking or disturbing than the interaction between Spence’s Sergey and Amanda Majeski’s Katerina: the former heroically clarion even while dramatically faithless, the latter a terrifyingly lyrical portrait of a woman “so bored I could hang myself” - or, as it turns out, commit murder.." [Full review].

On the way back to the hotel we passed a cocktail bar, Amaro, and popped in for a tasty but expensive nightcap.

Well that was a fun evening!

The next morning we wandered out for a breakfast shakshouka at Hayat, supporting locals rather than pay for an overpriced Hilton breakfast. On the way back to pick up our luggage we passed this lovely statue: "Wild Table of Love".

We also saw this encouraging sign, "Drinking Rum before 10am makes you a Pirate not an Alcoholic"!

After that it was back to the hotel to collect our luggage and head off to Heathrow for the flight back to Italy. 

Saturday, August 30, 2025

City Break - Skipton

Skipton, England. Friday/Sunday 29/31-August-2025.

Well I call it a city break but Skipton isn't actually a city however it is a very nice market town. I even lived there for a couple of months when working on a project for Bradford & Bingley Building Society (RIP). I was surprised I didn't get more of a sense of déjà vu.

We met our friends, Tuks and Paul as a result of helping a group of lost tourists trying to find their way back to the centre of Cisternino. They said "our friends have a place in Cisternino and can we share your contact details?" Sure no, problem. We met up for a drink and got on famously. It turned out that not only do they live in Cisternino, but in our very street!

We cemented the friendship by introducing them to parkrun!

Tuks and Paul decided to get married earlier this year and, as it was a second marriage for both of them, rather than have a big do they "eloped" to Gretna Green for a very quiet wedding. Not want wanting to miss out on a party they had this celebration sometime later. We were touched to be invited as we have not known them as long as family and their other friends.

It was an obvious opportunity to make a weekend of it so we went down on the Friday, planned for a parkrun on the Saturday morning, party in the afternoon / evening and return home on Sunday after breakfast.

Friday 29-August.

We were booked into The Coach House, a lovely B&B, which was nice and central, convenient for the party and parkrun.

The weekend started with a meet up in the Narrow Boat, where a number of the weekend guests had an opportunity for a pre-mingle. The pub served a best bitter and a stout and it was was nice to have some traditional ales rather than the ubiquitous IPA. I had a long chat with some bloke who it turned out was one of Paul's sons!

The walk to and from our accommodation was along the Springs Branch canal, a branch of Leeds and Liverpool Canal, which made for a lovely evening stroll. 

Saturday 30-August.

Saturday morning started with another pleasant walk along the same canal to Skipton parkrun adding another unique location to the list.

Skipton 13/08/2025 30:24 [162 / 235]

The course is four and a bit laps, undulating, on tarmac around a lovely park and the rain held of for a lovely parkrun. Mary is still slow at the moment due to injury so volunteered as Tail walker.

Back to the hotel for the essential shower and a bit of a rest before putting on my "Jackson Pollock" party shirt and heading down to at Alexander's Grand Cafe.

Entertainment was provided by an amazing magician, doing some serious sleight of hand, close-up magic. It is always impressive when you are watching tricks that close up and still can't see how it's done.

There were some entertaining speeches, wonderful food and free flowing wine. This is me chatting to friends also from Italy.

One of Tuk's sons singing and playing guitar. He is three-quarters Scottish so has the right to wear a kilt!

The couple themselves entertained us with a hilarious "first dance" followed by a DJ and dancing.

A joyous (and boozy) celebration with family and friends from far and wide. We felt honoured to have been invited to share in this celebration.

Sunday 31-August.

A leisurely breakfast and the drive home.

Thursday, August 28, 2025

Wine Tasting - Southern Italy

WASP (Wine Appreciation Society, Penrith), Roundthorn Country House Hotel, Penrith. Thursday 28-August-2025.

The tasting was presented by Adam Ventress of Chapel Street Wines, Lancaster (https://www.chapelstreetwines.co.uk/) who specialise in southern Italian wines. Only a slight case of "coals to Newcastle" however, although we spend half the year in southern Italy and have tasted a number of these wines, there is always something new to learn and new wines to meet.

The Whites.

Wine, Region, Grape variety, ABV, Price.

  • Presenter's description
  • Colour and/or aroma
  • Mary's notes and Star rating

.

Centopassi Giato Grillo/Catarratto 'Ondapazza' 2024, Western Sicily, 60% Grillo 40% Cataratto, 13%, £16.50: 

  • Grillo is the grape variety often used for masala. Many of the vineyards are on land seized from the mafia and sold off by the government. Small cooperative with 75 members south of Palermo up in the hills producing 500,000 bottles per year.
  • Pale lemon, green/grassy, fresh, lemony
  • Dry, good acidity, slight lemon, slight pepper. ✱✱

Ippolito Ciro Bianco 'Mare Chiaro 2023, Calabria, Greco Bianco ,13%, £16.50: 

  • On the Ionian coast with sandy soil. Oldest producer in the region family owned since 1845. Harvested in two stages - an early harvest plus a later one.
  • Pale lemon, deeper nose, apple, perfume/aromatic
  • Apple, spice, smooth, tasty. A lovely wine. ✱✱✱

San Marzano Timo Vermentino 2024, Puglia, Vermentino, 12.5%, £14.50: 

  • Cooperative originally founded by 19 producers now with 1,200 members with 1,500 hectares, 13 million bottles per year. An unusual grape for this area
  • Slightly darker lemon, light nose, thyme
  • Light, some acidity, fresh, nothing distinctive on the palate. ✱

Vitesse. Colomba Bianco 2023, Western Sicily, Zibibbo, 12.5%, £13.50: 

  • The name Zibibbo comes from the Arabic for raisin and is the grape used in Moscato di Pantelleria (a sweet wine). Huge cooperative with over 2 1/2 thousand producers producing a wide range of styles and types. They have 12 ranges with over 100 different wines!
  • Darker; oily, apricot kernels, some green, paint
  • Less distinctive flavour, good, smooth, slight acidity, less dry than the others. ✱½

The Reds.

Occhipinti SP68 Rosso Frappato/Nero d'Avola 2023, Vittoria Sicily, 70% Frappato, 30% Nero d'Avola, 12.5%, £28: 

  • Members of the AAA Organic Association, produced using indigenous yeasts.
  • Dark mahogany, very deep nose, pruney, digital.
  • Soft tannins, dark fruit, good acidity, very balanced/smooth, pure, good length. A new producer to us, this was our favourite red. ✱✱✱

Colomba Bianca Vitese Nero d'Avola 2024, Western Sicily, 100% Nero d'Avola, 12.5%, £13.95: 

  • The most planted great variety in Sicily.
  • Dark purple; fresh, dark fruit
  • Smooth, elegant, plum, slight vegetable/herby, medium body. ✱✱½

Poderi Parpinello Cannonau di Sardegna San Costantino 2023, Sardinia, 100% Cannonau, 14%,  £19.50:

  • Cannonau also known as Grenache  
  • Purple; lovely nose, dark fruit/plum/blackberry.
  • Soft tannins, light acidity, good balance, dark fruit. Good length, medium body, light style for this grape. ✱✱

San Marzano Talo Primitivo 2022, Puglia, 100% Primitivo, 14%, £17.95: 

  • Cooperative. Classified as a Primitivo di Manduria. They harvest bunches with mixed grape ripeness.
  • Dark, dark purple; ripe dark fruit
  • Lovely flavour, smooth, not too sweet, dark ripe fruit, good length. We know this producer and both liked this Primitivo - even Mary as it was not too sweet. ✱✱✱

As usual there was a buffet at the end however we usually eat beforehand to line our stomachs. At the end there was the usual beeline for the remainders. Luckily tastes differ so we were able to get a glass of our favourites. Mary won a bottle in the raffle and we bought a couple bottles of our favourites to take home. 

So we tasted some new wines and learnt lots more about the Southern Italian wine industry.

Friday, August 22, 2025

Digital Crowns

Penrith, Cumbria. Friday 22-August-2025.

The dental industry has significantly changed since I last had a crown a decade ago. The transition from analogue to digital is amazing. Using CAD/CAM techniques the process of designing and manufacturing crowns has been transformed.

Back then an impression was taken using something resembling a stainless steel horseshoe filled with plasticine stuffed into your mouth. Suppressing the gag reflex was areal challenge. This was done twice: once for the prepared crown and the other for the opposing bite. Those were sent away and positives cast for the dental technician to craft a crown that fit the stump and met precisely with the opposing teeth. See Two titanium implants conclusion for an example.  That could take weeks or a couple of months. The second visit was for the fitting and fine adjustments to the bite.

Now the dentist creates a 3D image using a camera wand that takes what must be hundreds of images judging by the amount of clicking. The wand has an orientation detector and some amazing software uses this information to stitch together a 3D image.

Repeating this with the opposing teeth and a clenched jaw scan creates an image with the bite contours shown in colour. Now I am seriously impressed.

The software the suggests a crown design based on all the above. The dentist then tweaks the design on the screen to get the best mechanical and aesthetic result.

When they are happy with the design, they send it to the room next door where an automated lathe is loaded with a blank cube of zirconium dioxide.

The CNC (Computer Numerical Control) lathe then does it stuff and turns the little cube into a crown ready to be fitted.

The final fitting is done with a bit more tweaking. The crown is then cemented in place and the final adjustments done with articulating paper and some delicate grinding. You then walk out with a new crown prepped, manufactured and fitted all done in a couple of hours.

https://www.dentsplysirona.com/en

Wednesday, August 20, 2025

Second Cousins in the Lake District

Cumbria, UK. Saturday/Wednesday 16/20-August-2025.

We had a great weekend with my Scottish second cousin Effie, up from her home in Bournemouth. We had a fabulous time showing her our favourite places and discovering some new ones. Our packed itinerary: 

Saturday 16: Morning for us was parkrun as usual. Effie arrived after lunch and I walked up to the station to collect her as we are only 7 minutes walk away. We spent the afternoon relaxing at home and catching up. We then went for supper dinner at Villa Bianca, our local Italian, with friends Sarah and Andrew.

Sunday 17: We took Effie on a drive around to show her the lakes as it was her first visit to this area. We drove around Ullswater then onward past Brothers Water to the scary Kirkstone Pass and down The Struggle on to Ambleside, a steep, single track road with passing places. Then on to the far side of Windermere passing Esthwaite Water. There we visited Hill Top - Beatrix Potter's home for many years.  

The interior was fascinating with lots of rooms set out as when Beatrix lived there with informative displays. Out in the garden were signs featuring illustration from the books next to their exact locations.

Heading back we had an abortive trip down another single track road. Lots of cars coming the other way meant I had to keep reversing back into a passing place. After several of these I thought "sod this for a game of soldiers" and did an approx 25 point turn and chose a better route. This included another first - the Windermere Ferry. A lovely sunny crossing with no queue.

Once home I lit a barbecue ready for the arrival of mutual friends who drove down from Glasgow to surprise Effie. An afternoon of food and chat. When the friends left we took Effie to our "local" and rounded off the day with a beer in Fell Bar.

Monday 18: A leisurely start with brunch booked at Bassenthwaite Lake Station with time to relax afterwards in their bird hide. Mostly ducks but the butterflies were out in force: Red Admiral, Small Tortoiseshell (in photo) and Peacock (too fast to photo).

This was followed by another scary road up to the stupendous Surprise View overlooking Derwent Water. This was a place Mary had read about and wanted to visit for some time. It lived up to its accolades.

Then back to Keswick for a spot of wandering and shopping, a beer at Craft Beer Keswick and a light supper of tapas at Bar eS

Our second highlight that day was the excellent comedic production of Pride and Prejudice at Theatre By The Lake.

Tuesday 19: We took Effie for a gentle wander around Penrith town. After lunch it was a visit to Brougham Castle, Brougham Hall and Tebay Services. Effie was keen to visit Tebay having seen the TV programme "A Lake District Farm Shop". 

Supper was at the excellent Four and Twenty taking advantage of their mid-week set menu deal. As usual we went with their recommended wine pairings.

Tuesday 20: Effie caught the train back to Bournemouth. Now time for a rest!