Showing posts with label baltic26. Show all posts
Showing posts with label baltic26. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 21, 2026

Baltic Tour 2026 - Warsaw

Warsaw, Poland, Tuesday 21-July-2026 Tuesday 

Table of Contents:

After a successful time in Gdansk we had another two day trip to get us to Vilnius. We decided to break the journey at Warsaw. Since we had been to Warsaw before we didn’t need any more than one night there. 

Tuesday 21-July-2026. 

And this is where it all went badly wrong. On the train I put up the little side table for my tea from the trolley but failed to ensure it was properly locked in place. It collapsed under the weight of the tea and the scalding hot tea dropped on Mary's foot scalding it badly. On arrival at our hotel I immediately went back out for soothing spray and lint for emergency first aid.

We then went out in in search of beer and food close by so Mary didn't have to walk too far. We found a whimsically name Jabeerwocky with an extensive beer board. 

They also offered beer paddles so we got to try a variety of styles. The red one was a spicy tomato beer, basically a Bloody Mary beer - Mary approved.

Then it was off for another gastronomic first - a Georgian restaurant. I ordered a dish advertised as kebab but which basically turned out to be herby lamb chops, served with roast potatoes and grilled tomatoes.

Mary reported that her veal stew was delicious.

Wednesday 22-July-2026. 

Up early to buy a picnic lunch having learned our lesson from the day before. Then off to Lithuania.

Next stop: Vilnius.

Baltic Tour 2026 - Gdansk / Malbork

Gdansk / Malbork, Poland, Thursday/Monday 16/20-July-2026

Table of Contents:

Thursday 16-July-2026.

After a pleasant overnight in Pardubice the next stop was Gdansk with yet another wonderfully ornate main station. Despite being a bit off our track this was a place Mary wanted to visit for its historic significance (and a parkrun) so we planned a four night stop here.

Our Home Exchange apartment was just north of the city centre. There was a classic “desire path” cutting the corner at the end of the road.

After so much restaurant dining in the last week or so we decided to eat light by cooking in the apartment - pork with paprika and boiled potatoes.

Friday 17-July-2026.

We took a train over to Malbork for an overnight stay in Malbork to snag ”Z” for our second alphabet - “parkrun Zamek w Malborku”. Zamek means castle in Polish and there’s a clue in the name. 

We dumped our bags at the Premium Bed and Breakfast very close to the parkrun and went off to explore the town starting with the castle. It is difficult to visualise how big it is. 

We only looked around the outside of the castle buildings and at a good pace but it still took more than an hour. It is the largest brick building in Europe and has three concentric moats. 

Some original old tiles featuring creatures, elsewhere they had been replaced with modern versions.

Evening meal was at restaurant Kamienica with an oenological first - Polish rosé!

Saturday 18-July-2026.

parkrun Zamek w Malborku, 18/06/26 31:25 [22/31]

The B&B offered a ludicrously generous breakfast unfortunately, due to our imminent parkrun, we were not able to take full advantage of the abundance.

A very soggy parkrun, possibly our wettest ever. Amongst the fellow tourists were a couple we met in Sicily at Uditore parkrun back in May - small world! Normally they have 70 to 80 participants. The rain kept most regulars away but us parkrun tourists are not put off so easily! Ten of the 31 attendees were British.

As we lined up for the start the heavens opened.

The first and second finishers were soaked but happy such is the parkrun spirit. With credit to Zbigniew Jazdzewski for the photos.

After the obligatory shower we did a suggested walk around Malbork and then it was off to the station to reverse out journey back to Gdansk for lunch. We had a lovely light lunch of antipasti at Trattoria Al Dente.

We relaxed in the afternoon then went out looking at old buildings in the town centre. Having worked up a thirst we went for a craft ale at Under Beer followed by a lovely meal at Thai Thai including a tasty spicy mango margarita for Mary. 

We like Thai food but since moving out of London it is a rare treat. Penrith doesn’t run to one and Italy doesn’t really do foreign restaurant outside of the major cities.

Sunday 19-July-2026.

We took a Buggy tour to get a feel for the lay of the land. Our guide was the lively and informative Tomasz, a grandson of Lech Wałęsa! The picture he is holding is of his dad, son of Lech, between Bush and Reagan. 

We visited areas of the famous shipyards including this monument to the 17 workers killed in 1970. Apparently the first monument built by the Communists for people killed by the Communists. 

The plaque reads:

Memorial of the fallen shipyard workers 1970. A token of everlasting remembrance of the slaughter victims. A warning to rulers that no social conflict in our country can be resolved by force. A sign of hope for fellow citizens that evil need not prevail.

A light Japanese lunch at Sakamoto-Ya followed by a wander round town. These are some of the red brick buildings around Gdansk town centre. The bottom left shows how they preserve and make use of any ruins of the original buildings.

The World War 2 museum is high on the list of must-see sites in Gdansk. It takes two to three hours even at a steady pace. We learned so much from our visits to the museum and reflected on how some people and countries don't seem to be learning from the mistakes of the past. This poster was a quote describing the post war political landscape.

The birth and growth of totalitarianisms
Democracy in crisis after the First World War

When the First World War ended, most countries in Europe were parliamentary democracies. But in many of them democracy soon came under attack. In some, including Poland in 1926, democratic governments were replaced by authoritarian regimes. In the Soviet Union, Italy and Germany, governments adhering to totalitarian ideologies - Communism, Fascism and National Socialism - came to power.
What they had in common was their leaders' drive for absolute control, the use of terror and aggressive propaganda, contempt for democracy, a drive to regulate their societies, and great-power ambitions. Their counterpart in the Far East was Japanese imperialism.

Continuing our wandering we went down to the docks where this historic crane was originally powered by four men in a giant hamster wheel.

The evening meal was classy dining at Canis, friendly service, wonderful food and an extensive wine list in a lovely setting.

Monday 20-July-2026.

We had to have at least one meal of pierogi as I think of it as Poland’s national dish. It made a great lunch on a day devoted to sightseeing.

Gdansk-Lenin shipyard gate number two where we did the Solidarity Museum.

The evening was more craft ale with beer and meal by Brovarnia.

We do like a tasting paddle to try different beers. They only had three beers on tap at the time so we might have to come back in the autumn / winter to taste their dark beers.

The schnitzel was ludicrously large, almost as large as the plate; I couldn’t eat it all.

That evening we booked for a classical concert at the Polish Baltic Philharmonic. A solo pianist, Daniel Zimko, playing Chopin & Ravel:

  • Nocturne in F major, Op. 15, No. 1, 
  • Ballade in F major, Op. 38,
  • A cycle of Chopin's outstanding piano miniatures, the Waltzes, Op. 34. 
  • From Ravel's works, the pianist had chosen Le Tombeau de Couperin.

From the balcony we had a great view of his impressive fingerwork.

Tuesday 21-July-2026.

Up early for breakfast at the main station and purchase of a picnic lunch for the train trip to Warsaw.

Next stop: Warsaw 

Tuesday, July 14, 2026

Baltic Tour 2026 - Budapest

Budapest, Hungary / Stuttgart, Germany. Wednesday/Thursday 11/14-July-2026.

Table of Contents:

After back-to-back travel days this was our first multi-day stop to allow for full on tourist stuff.

Saturday 11-July-2026.

After parkrun and a shower in Graz we headed off to the main station for a five and a half hour train journey to Budapest.

We may have been in First Class but the air conditioning was not working and the windows were not openable so it made for a pretty steamy trip. Despite it being such a long journey, there was no buffet car so we couldn’t even get a drink or a sandwich. Luckily we had eaten lunch before we set off and had water with us  

We passed countless fields of sunflowers. It would seem to be a major crop, presumably to go into cooking oil and margarine manufacturing.

Our accommodation was in a Home Exchange apartment in a large block of flats with a huge central courtyard.

As it was was late, we went to a nearby bar, Guru Serhaz, that described itself as a bistro. Beer it had aplenty but the food was very basic pub grub. 

Dark beer for me, light for Mary.

From the very limited menu I had jalapeño poppers with chips and Mary had chicken wings with chips but we did get to sample several beers.

Sunday 12-July-2026.

Even the railway stations are fancy. This is Budapest-Keleti, the nearest main station to our apartment.

We wandered around Pest admiring the many fine buildings, many of them neoclassical from the late 1800s. So many that I can only feature a small selection. This is a grand hotel.

Even the manhole covers are fancy.

We saw these cute “gate guardians” protecting one doorway.

Down by the river there was a touching memorial: the Shoes on the Danube Bank in Budapest a powerful public art memorial featuring 60 pairs of 1940s-style iron footwear. It honours the predominantly Jewish victims executed on the banks of the river by Hungarian fascist militiamen towards the end of World War II.

St Stephen’s Church. Very, very ornate: unsurprising as is named in honour of Stephen, the first King of Hungary (c. 975–1038), whose right hand is housed in the reliquary. Interestingly the dome was supposed to be decorated with paintings but they used mosaics instead - see the detail in the bottom right hand picture.

That evening we went out for a very classy meal at A Kert Bisztro. A marked contrast to the previous evening’s meal!

The food was great and the prices were reasonable but the wine prices were exorbitant and were per decilitre (100cc) which meant double for a sensible sized glass.

Our nightcap was in the New Palm Cafe and Pub just along our street.

Monday 13-July-2026.

We spent the morning exploring Buda on the West Bank of the Danube. This is the castle hill as seen from Pest across the river.

First stop was the Buda Tower, all that remains of the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene, where we climbed the tower, lots of stairs in a narrow and hot spiral staircase. At the top we were rewarded with stunning views.

Top - National Archives, middle - the tower, bottom - Parliament.

We walked along the backstreets to end up at Fisherman’s Bastion with great views over the city.

Statue of King Stephen 1st founder of Hungary at Fisherman’s Bastion.

We walked down to the tram line and took it along the banks of the Danube to the Market Hall. This large building downstairs had colourful displays of fresh produce, upstairs had fast food stalls and tourist tat.

We went to the food stalls and making a mistake with the currency conversion we bought an oversized lunch, so large it did us for supper as well. 

Late afternoon we went for a short river cruise seeing again from the river some of the buildings we had seen on land. The parliament building:

The cruise included an audio guide you could download to your phone. Mary had left her phone on charge at the apartment so we shared my earbuds - one ear each.

After a supper of our Market Hall lunch reheated we went out to Amigo, a local rockabilly themed bar for our nightcap. Instead of a beer I fancied some red wine. I received a generous sized glass of average wine that may have been open for some time. Next time I’ll stick to beer.

Tuesday 14-July-2026.

Given our support for the Carlisle Victorian and Turkish Baths we had to check out the thermal baths of which there are several in Budapest. We spent the morning at Szechenyi Thermal Baths

This gives an idea of the extent of the baths with multiple pools and saunas to choose from:

We went back to the apartment for a bit of relax and then out to a wine tasting at Bortodoor City followed by a meal at Kata

The wine tasting was meant to be two hours but overran by half an hour thanks to our enthusiastic and knowledgeable host “Smike”. We know nothing about Hungarian grapes and this delivered exactly what we wanted: a history of Hungarian wines, and introduction to the local grape varieties and tastings of sparkling, through white, rosè and reds. I even got a bonus sip of Tokai. 

The restaurant was fortunately only three minutes walk away so we were only slight late. We had spotted this restaurant previously as it promised a gluten and lactose free menu. The food was excellent.

No nightcap today as we were knackered and needed an early night for a prompt start for the next leg of the journey on the morrow.

Next stop: Pardubice.

Saturday, July 11, 2026

Baltic Tour 2026 - Graz

Graz, Austria, Friday/Saturday 10/11-July-2026.

Table of Contents:

The third day of back-to-back travel in order to pick up our original route at Graz. The reason for visiting Graz was a parkrun.

Friday 10-July-2026.

The trip from Stuttgart to Graz was smooth, uneventful and on time. We forgot to take the platform station sign so improvised with this.

We passed through some beautiful scenery with mountains in the distance.

After a quick change we headed straight out for supper, preceded by the essential beer. Although it was only an overnight in Graz it was long enough to appreciate the buildings and find the brauhaus, Glöckl Bräu, recommended by the hotel.

Graz city centre.

A weisse beer and a dunkel lager. 

The restaurant was offering cevapcici which we first tasted and loved in Vienna so it was an easy menu choice. Normally served with potatoes but we went for the healthy option and had salad.

After supper we went for a stroll around town and caught the sunset over the river Mur.

Heading back to our hotel in search of a bar for a nightcap we serendipitously stumbled across this DJ spinning vinyl in the garden of the Volkskunde museum which was a lovely way to finish the evening.

Saturday 11-July-2026.

Stadtpark, Graz 23/05/26 31:10 [55/75] 

Saturday morning was parkrun / park walk just three minutes walk from the hotel, and afterwards a chat with new parkrun friends, Oliver and Stephanie, in a local cafe.

The course is distinctly bird shaped which is why the sign has a little duck perched on it!

After a shower back at the hotel we had a lunch of sashimi at nearby Subarashii and then it was time to head to the train station for the next leg of our journey.

Next stop: Budapest