Wine Tasting - Hungary

WASP (Wine Appreciation Society, Penrith), Roundthorn Country House Hotel, Penrith. Thursday 29-October-2026.

Wines presented by Jenni Hutchinson from Lake District Wines in Keswick “Sipping through Hungary”. A very enthusiastic and knowledgeable presenter.

She has been all over Hungary and seems to know all the producers personally. She is clearly a plant from the Hungarian Tourism Board!

Price Colour Wine, Vintage ABV

• Grapes
• Jenni’s Tasting Notes
• Mary’s notes
• Additional info.

£35.50 Fizz Kreinbacher Prestige Brut NV Somlo, NV 12.5%

• Furmint, Chardonnay
• Traditional Method, Lime, Floral Notes, Stone
• ✱✱✱ Fresh, lovely flavour, lime, mineral, stone fruit / white peach, yeasty
• Won gold in 2020 wine challenge, included in top 15 best wines. Aged 24-30 months. 

Somlo region touted as a “good for your health” zone.

£17.00 White Takler Kiralyleanyka, Szeksard, 2022 13%,    

• Kiralyleanyka
• Fruits, Brioche, Gentle Mousse, Minerality Apple, Pear, Citrus, Grape Flower, Fresh Acidity 
• ✱✱ Little nose; slight savoury / smoky, gentle flavours, fresh, light, good acidity

More recently traditional winemaking styles have been tweaked to make them more appealing to UK and European tastes 

£22.00 White St Andrea Egri Csillag Napbor, Eger, 2024 13% 

• Harslevelu, Chardonnay, Egyeb, Olaszrizling, Sauvignon Blanc, Zengo
• Peach, Lychee, Citrus, Grapefruit, Exciting Acidity
• ✱ light nose, agree with flavours above, mineral,y, OK acidity, shortish
• Fermented in stainless steel, temperature controlled. 

The first blush Zinfandel was an accident when white wine production was interrupted, the must was left on the skins so they made the wine anyway and a rosé was the result.

£18.00 Rose Sebestyen Rose, Szeksard, 2024 12.5% 

• Kekfrankos
• Bright strawberry, red berries, and peach, a touch of green/herbaceous nuance, gentle spice.
• ½ sweet nose, smokey, red berries, too sweet / sherberty 
• The most ancient grape variety.

£21.50 Red Sebestyen Kadarka, Szeksard, 2024 11%

• Kadarka
• Raspberries, Cherries, Violet, Spice
• ✱✱ looks light but good flavour, green notes, pinot noir style
• Oak barrels made from Hungarian oak.  

Hungary is the third largest producer of oak barrels after USA and France.

£25.00 Red Takler Orokseg Kekfrankos, Szeksard, 2021 14% 

• Kekfrankos
• Cherry, Forest Fruits, Integrated Oak, Subtle Smoky and Spicy Notes, Milk chocolate and Mineral Touches.
• ✱✱✱ dark purple, good balance, strong flavours, plums
• Generally not oaked

£19.00 Red Bolyki Bikaver, Eger, 2022 13.5%

• Kekfrankos, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zweigelt, Baluberger, Portugeiser + 
• Dark, Stewed Fruit, Chocolate, Black Pepper, Sour Cherry, Cranberry
• ✱✱✱ strong nose, oaky, deep, dark fruit, yummy, slightly sweet 
• This wine could have up to fifteen (!) grape varieties as long as the wine is composed of at least 50% indigenous grapes.

£21.50 Sweet Tokajicum Borhaz, Tokaji Aszu, 5 Puttonyos, NV 10.5% 

• Furmint, Harslevelu
• Honey, Apricot, Candied Orange Peel, Forest Mushrooms, Acacia Blossoms, Marmalade, Creamy Texture, Volcanic Minerals 
• ✱✱½ good freshness, yummiest! Sweet but fresh
• UNESCO heritage zone. First ever noble rot wine.

An interesting contrast to the tasting we did in Budapest which included more on the geology and history whereas this focussed more on the producers. An enjoyable evening and we all came away having increased our knowledge of Hungarian wines by at least 100%.

The Gathering 2026

Penrith, Cumbria. Saturday 24-October-2026.

Weather turned our plans upside down again. Two years ago we ran a charity stall at Winter Droving 2024 for Friends of Carlisle Victorian and Turkish Baths. The event was a great success with the tombola raising our best ever event total. Unfortunately, last year it was cancelled due to a forecast of high wind. 

This year Winter Droving was relocated to Carlisle as part of their carnival much to the disgruntlement of many Penrith residents. The Penrith Business Improvement District partnership organised an alternative event called The Gathering to be held in Penrith town centre.

We flew back from Italy in time to prepare for our Carlisle Carnivale stall but then they cancelled due to Storm Boelo and we suddenly had a free Saturday.

Penrith 24/10/2026 32:18 [182/359]

First order of business was of course parkrun which we were now able to attend. Mary volunteered instead of parkwalking because her cunning plan is to do her 300th parkwalk at a location celebrating their 300th event (an unofficial challenge know as "Match of the Day"). By luck there is a suitable one not too far away which will be at Dean Country Park parkrun on 19th December which also happens to be in Kilmarnock, her place of birth. This plan means that she has to skip parkwalking for two Saturdays to synchronise hence the volunteering this weekend. 

The Gathering was planned to be held mostly indoors so that it would be independent of the weather. Unfortunately the Drum Nation parade was outdoors and they were looking very soggy but determined.

There were events organised in the Parish Rooms, Penrith Library, Saint Andrew's Church and Penrith Playhouse. 

The main event was in a marquee at Mansion House.

We arrived in time to catch the last part of Harry Tricks set and then got ourselves a couple of beers to watch the whole of Street Beats.

They went for a full stereophonic effect by having the drummers lining the sides of the marquee, presumably because they could not fit everyone on the stage.

The next act were the King Bees from Newcastle who were excellent, playing a selection of Rhythm and Blues

Dockray Hall have not have yet started doing food again so we had an early supper at home and then out there to see Bare Wires featuring our friend Paul on lead guitar. Excellent as always, they played two sets so we got a full evening of rocking, live music.

Dockray Hall had put on a couple of excellent beers that were very much to my taste: proper brown beer, a Gargoyle Stout with strong notes of coffee and chocolate, quite sweet and Sneck Lifter, a strong dark ale. 

 

The band played right though to 11 o'clock so it was time for us old fogeys to go home.

City Break - Gallipoli

Gallipoli, Puglia, Italy. Friday/Sunday 09/11-October-2026.

It used to be that Salento parkrun was the remotest in the world as the next nearest were Etna or Rome both 400km away. No more as a new one started up at Gallipoli. Sirenhello parkrun is only 62km away from Cisternino. So we had to fit in a visit before our return to the U.K.

Friday 09-October-2026.

Heading to Gallipoli, we stopped off in Manduria for a quick wine tasting and lunch.

For the wine tasting we went to the Museo Della Civiltà del Vino Primitivo where we could do a free tasting. Of course, like most people, we bought some bottles so I’m sure they don’t lose out by giving the tasting for free.

They had a huge range on offer so we focussed our selection. First we tried two method champenoise sparkling. We had a white and a rosé, one each so we could compare-and-contrast. Then we tried three primitivo from the same producer but different quality and price levels. We both preferred the middle of the three.

Lunch was trickier as many places were closed and we ended up a local café with a limited selection of panini. We chose Italy's answer to a ham and cheese toasty and very tasty it was too!

The imposing Palazzo Imperiali - Filotico build by the Imperial princes of Francavilla starting in 1717. From the signs outside it now includes a bank and a restaurant.

However, thanks to the time we spent wandering around the town, we caught a procession of amazing Ferrari as they passed through the town centre. 

This was part of the Rossocorsa Classiche Puglia 2026 featuring:

• Vintage Racers: The Ferrari 340 MM (winner of the 1953 Mille Miglia), a 340 America (which raced at Le Mans in 1951), and two 750 Monza models.
• The Hypercar Trinity: A rare sequential display of technical evolution featuring the F40, F50, and the Enzo.
• Icons: The 250 California Spider, Daytona, and Testarossa.

Driving the rest to the route to Gallipoli we passed vineyard after vineyard of what we assumed were mostly Primitivo.

Our accommodation was an about half an hours walk from the centre so on a recommendation from our host we dined locally at La Lampara. I had a very tasty vongole sauté basically the clam version of moules marinière and Mary had polpo arrosto, Italy’s version of the The Beast from 20,000 Fathoms.

Saturday 10-October-2026.

Sirenhello 10/10/26 32:00 [5/7].

Italy’s second newest parkrun, it was only at week seven. It is a convoluted, labyrinthine course, Italy’s answer to the Curly Wurly (Somerdale Pavilion parkrun)! Daniele the RD very proudly explained that he designed it himself.

An unusually wet day with no locals at all apart from the volunteers. 100% tourists, with six from the UK including a couple we met the week before at Salento and one person originally from Poland. By the time Mary reached the finish line she was soaked.

After lunch we went drove as close as we could get to the centre before the ZTL kicked in. We had been to Gallipoli years ago but neither of use have any memory of it other than a seafood restaurant wouldn’t serve us coffee with milk in it - an Italian belief that mixing milk and seafood is bad for you. So it was good to revisit, taking a stroll around the outside of the peninsula. Not so scenic were the narrow streets of the centre full of restaurants, BnBs and tat shops.

The castlello hold a commanding position over the port.

A curious bird-like sculpture in the water next to the castello.

Late afternoon we had a wine tasting at Cantina Coppola. First a bit history on the cantina and a tour of the facilities with wine pumps and a barrel weighing device.

The Coppola family tree of winemakers extends back an impressive five centuries to 1489!

As part of the tour we could see into the cellars through glass floor tiles. The small barrels hold Primitivo, the large barrel at the back is Negroamaro. They also make sparkling wine by the metodo classico (as used in Champagne) and the racks (pupitre) hold the bottles with the yeast being riddled (shaken down).

Then on to the tasting. We had booked for Negroamaro four ways: sparkling, white, rosé and red. At the end they offered us a bonus glass each so Mary had another Negroamaro and I had a Primitivo:

• Coppola Dosaggio Zero
• Rocci Puglia Bianco IGT 
• Licuti Alezio Rosato DOC
• Licuti Alezio Rosso DOC
• Doxi Alezio Rosso DOC Negroamaro 80%, Malvasia 20%
• Patitari Salento Rosso IGT Primitivo 100%

Fascinating to see the different styles from one grape variety. We enjoyed their wines and bought some sparkling and red.

A lot of restaurants around us were closed as it is the end of the season so, rather than dine at the same restaurant as Friday night, we walked 25 minutes to another fishy restaurant Vista Mare "Lu Spariolu". While we were in there the heavens opened and we walked back through torrents of water and flash floods in the streets. We were were sodden by the time we got back to the apartment.

Sunday 11-October-2026.

We decided on a gentle drive back across country to avoid the boring SS16 which we drive up and down every Saturday when we go to Salento parkrun. We broke our journey for a coffee at a lively café in Torre Santa Susanna and were back to Cisternino in time for a very tasty and appealing lunch at Chirico.

 

Finally a quiet evening in to round off the weekend.

City Break - Lecce #03

Lecce, Puglia, Italy. Friday/Sunday 02/04-October-2026.  

Friday 02-October-2026. 

We volunteered at Salento parkrun so that some of the regular volunteers could participate. We decided to treat ourselves to a weekend in Lecce, the nearest town, so that we a) didn't have to get up so early and b) were less concerned about drinking the evening before that might affect our parkrun "performance".

Accommodation duly booked in the centre not far from Porta Napoli, we pootled off from Cisternino after lunch. The evening was supposed to start with a music jam as part of a small festival. The venue turned out to be a local music shop with nowhere to sit down so we went for a beer at the nearest cafe instead. Next we went for pre-dinner cocktails at Frivolo, a great little place we discovered on our last visit to Lecce. 

Supper was at La Scarpetta literally two doors down from our accommodation. It specialised in seafood, the food was great and the staff achieved a lovely balance between friendly banter and professionalism. Finally a beer at Büro further along the same street accompanied by a great soundtrack from the '70s and '80s.

Saturday 03-October-2026. 

At parkrun Mary took the roles of Run Director and photographer, I did first timers briefing (English version) and timekeeping. That meant that Saverio and Valerio were able to participate in the run itself for the first time in ages. 

It was parkrun's 22nd birthday so HQ declared it to be tutu day rather like when it is the 22nd of the month. Those in the know sported their tutus.

At Salento there are a regularly a number of visitors on holiday in the region. On this Saturday the visitors outnumbered the locals - of the 27 finishers 15 were first timers i.e. tourists.

On the way to parkrun we spotted this sign. Cinghiali = wild boar. They obviously didn't have a cinghali sign so improvised with a leaping deer. We've seen pictures of wild boar and we know they don't look or leap like that!

We had booked for lunch at Crianza which we discovered several visits back and is now a regular haunt for us. They do a great range of tasty salads, perfect for lunchtime.

After lunch we went for a stroll around Belloluogo Park formerly the site of Puglia’s second parkrun. We went to event number 3 back in 2019, now defunct as it never recovered from Covid. 

Google tells me that "The park and its 14th-century cylindrical tower are named after the historic suburban residence of Queen Maria d'Enghien (Countess of Lecce and Queen of Naples), who spent her final years there. An ancient moat remains visible directly in front of the tower."

We passed a lovely silk floss tree (Ceiba speciosa) in flower.

Early evening, we went for a wine tasting in a 14th century monastery building adjacent to the fascinating Faggiano museum and part of the same complex.We were joined by a couple from Canada and a couple from Sweden. With only six attendees it made for a relaxed tasting with time to chat.

• Torrantica Chardonnay 2024, 12%. Lecce typical grape 2024. We are sceptical of an imported French grape variety introduced in the late 1980s and 1990s. It is widely planted and major regional appellations, such as Salice Salentino DOC, explicitly permit up to 30% of Chardonnay in their white wine blends. Unoaked, the flavours of the grape came through nicely and made for a lovely drink (sorry France!)
• Torrantica Negroamaro Rosato 2024, 12%. Very pink! Sweet strawberry flavour.
• Notte Rossa Primitivo 2025,13%. Deep purple. Not as sweet and jammy as some Primitivo which meant Mary didn't disapprove of it so much nor I like it as much - so well balanced, then!
  Primitivo is genetically identical to an ancient Croatian grape called Tribidrag. Brought over to Italy in the 18th century despite the folkloric claims that the Roman were responsible. 
• Li Tamarici Negroamaro 2025, 13.5%. Sweeter than usual but still with the typical Negroamaro flavours and grip. The favourite of the tasting. Many tastings present the Negroamaro followed by the bigger, jammier, usually higher alcohol Primitivo. This pair bucked the trend.

Our host was explaining that the devastation of the olive trees caused by xylella impacted the wind shelter the trees normally provided for the vines.

Then supper at Pezzetto another recent discovery and an addition to our favourites list. They do dishes that are just a little bit different. We shared a starter of aubergine three-ways followed by one of the specials of the day crostone con paté di fegato (bread with liver pâté) and it was delicious. and night cap at Büro. 

Sunday 04-October-2026. 

Rather than go straight home we went along the coast road for lunch at Fronte Mare in Savelletri. We had a couple of starters, only, including our favourite - zucchini carpaccio (thinly sliced courgette) with smoked salmon and toasted almonds. Super!

Footnote:

Writing this blog I realised that I hadn't written up our last Lecce weekend so I did a retrospective post here: City Break - Lecce #02.

Cosmo and Damian 2026

Cisternino / Alberobello, Puglia, Italy. Saturday / Monday 26/28-September-2026. 

A double celebration of twin saints. I can’t believe I have not blogged this spectacle before as it happens every year and we are usually here for the procession.

 Saturday 26-September-2026. 

The town of Cisternino celebrates Saints Cosmo and Damien, patron saints of doctors, surgeons, pharmacists, dentists, nurses and veterinarians, and unsurprisingly, twins. The banner is followed by a parade of the faithful then the Confraternities in their white robes. Next come Cosmo and Damien, not sure which one is which. Finally the great and the good heading up the band.

I have noticed that the devout following the flag walk in twos down either side of the road. Google tells me that the middle of the street is deliberately kept clear because it is reserved for the most sacred elements of the procession including the clergy and the priest or bishop and the sacred image or statue of the patron saint or the Madonna. The walking in pairs have a variety of significations.

The Confraternities are official brotherhoods of laypeople organised for religious and social purposes dating back to the Middle Ages (around the 12th and 13th centuries). Members often wear traditional hooded robes (cappe or sacco) and capes. I am glad to say that our local fraternity haven’t gone for the pointed hoods with eye holes that make them look like the KKK!

For this procession, they have gone old school carrying the effigy on their shoulders. Unlike the Blessed Virgin Mary on her electric milk float.

Apparently, it is usual for Saint Damian to be in pole position (see what I did there!) followed by Saint Cosmo. 

Finally, the priests followed by the great and good in their best dress uniform and insignia bring up the rear followed by the band.

Monday 28-September-2026. 

Alberobello celebrates Saints Cosmo and Damian as they are the patron saints of the town. Our friends who live just outside Alberobello invited us over for lunch after which we walked into town to observe the festivities followed by a concert

We arrived just as the leading standard bearer turned off the main street up into the street leading to the church.

Again, the faithful walked two by two keeping the centre of the street clear. Many of them were carrying lighted candles.

Saint Damian supported on the shoulders of the Alberobello Confraternity in their green cloaks. They were constantly swapping places so that everyone got a turn at shouldering the saint. Once relieved of their position they went to the back of the queue to continue the rotation.

Saint Cosmo in second place. Apparently, the more prestigious position because he is closer to the priests right behind him.

And next in the parade are the religious type's.

Once the statues and the priests have passed the whole width of the road is available for walking. Representatives of various towns in the region join in the procession: Conversano, Fasano, Locorontondo, Martina Franca, Noci, Putignano. Presumably, Cisternino is not represented as they have already done their religious rites. 

As always the band, Don Giovanni Cipriani from Turi, is tail-end Charlie belting out some lively marching tunes.

Up in the main Piazza del Popolo they had set up a bandstand for the concert from Premiato Concerto Musicale "Paolo Falcicchio" from Gioia del Colle conducted under the baton of Maestra Susanna Assunta Pescetti.

We managed to snag ourselves some seats with good views.

Here they are playing the Triumphal March from Verdi’s Aida giving it some welly on the trumpets. They played for just under an hour and then took a break at which point we decided to bail and went home for a last glass of wine.

Southbound 2026 - Rome

Rome, Italy. Wednesday/Saturday 16/19-September-2026.

All posts

• London, England. Thursday/Tuesday 27-August/01-September-2026.
• Frankfurt, Germany. Wednesday/Thursday 02/03-September-2026.
• Nuremberg, Germany. Thursday/Saturday 03/05-September-2026.
• Milan, Italy. Sunday/Tuesday 06/08-September-2026.
• Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany. Wednesday/Thursday 09/10-September-2026. 
• San Vincenti, Tuscany. Friday/Tuesday 11/15-September-2026. 
• Roma, Italy. Wednesday/Saturday 16/19-September-2026.

Introduction.

The final stop on our grand tour: Rome for three nights including a parkrun, as part of our mission to tick off all the Italian parkruns. 

Wednesday 16-September-2026.

A horribly early start with a 5:30 am alarm driven by the taxi sharing logistics. We went with the people bound for morning flights from Pisa. They were able to make a slight detour en-route and drop us at Sienna railway station. The flexibility of the Interrail pass meant we could catch a train just about to leave for Florence and amend our seat reservations on the Florence to Rome leg rather than hang around for hours at Sienna.

We got to the apartment early so went for lunch at the local pizza joint, 6zero1, for a very tasty salad.

That evening we decided to eat locally at Osteria Romana dal 1949 which had reasonable ratings. We went for a set menu with starter, pasta and main. The local Lazio speciality pasta cacio e pepe was supposed to be a tasting portion, but it was more like a full sized dish, too much! I thought I’d go out of my comfort zone and try the oxtail stew for the main. I figured it would be something like rabbit where you have to pick the meat off the bones. In this case the meat was chewy and full of gristly bits and so I left the majority of it. I won’t make that mistake again!

Thursday 17-September-2026.

The morning was a fascinating visit to Ostia Antica - the ancient port of Rome during the period of the Roman Empire.

It was very extensive, took hours and hours to explore and is still being excavated.  It was so interesting we didn’t want to miss any of it. We had lunch in the café on-site and then a quick visit round the museum. On the way in we saw a team working on new excavation; on the way out we got a good view of some of what they had uncovered that day. Amazing to see amphorae in such good condition emerging from the sand.

We saw green parakeets. My bird app identified them as Monk Parakeets unlike London which has Ring-Necked Parakeets. 

It was something something like 4 o’clock before we got back to the apartment for a late afternoon rest.

The evening meal was at Beva Vineria, a restaurant with a wide selection of over 1000 wines, many of which were offered by the glass to accompany your chosen dishes.

The starter was a selection of salami from the Cinta Senese: an ancient native Italian breed of pig from Tuscany that is black with a single white belt.

We cannot remember what we had for main courses but they were delicious as well.

Friday 18-September-2026.

The morning’s activity was a walk up to the Vatican City from Roma St. Pietro station following a disused papal railway line, the Passeggiata del Gelsomino. It was advertised as a hidden gem, in my view it was neither hidden nor a gem. It was a short walk, only half a kilometre. It did have a lovely view of Saint Peter’s but other than that was very disappointing.

It is also a triumph of poorly executed civil engineering. The path has neither camber nor slope and inadequate drainage so when the rains came down, we had to walk through puddles that stretched the entire width of the pathway at several points.

Here the tracks disappear under Vatican City.

We continue to walk around the Vatican City and then away from touristy areas to find ourselves a nice restaurant for lunch.

After lunch we went to see a major retrospective of Kandinsky.  

En route we passed this stunning column. From Wikipedia: 

“The Column of Marcus Aurelius is a Roman victory column located in Piazza Colonna, Rome, Italy. A Doric column adorned with a detailed spiral relief, it was built in honor of Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius and modeled after Trajan's Column. Dedicated to the emperor and his military campaigns during the Barbarian Wars, the monument stands as a testament to his reign from 161 to 180 AD. The column's frieze, approximately 367 feet (112 meters) long, spirals upward 21 times, depicting the emperor’s campaigns against the Germanic and Sarmatian tribes.”

The Kandinsky exhibition was in the Palazzo Bonaparte and the majority of the pieces were on loan from the Pompidou Centre in France. We downloaded an audio guide to the 20 most important pieces in the exhibition which took about a hour and a half. Without that we might have been there for hours and hours.

The pictures were amazing and the exhibition showcased his stylistic evolution. Also fascinating to learn about his links to the Bauhaus and the various avant-garde movements of the time.

Back for a late afternoon rest and that evening a pinsa* back at 6zero1, the local pizza joint.

* Pinsa, also known as pinsa romana, is a flatbread generally marketed as an oval-shaped style of, or healthier alternative to, pizza. The name originated partly as a marketing strategy, coined by a Rome-based baking family as late as 2001. [Wikipedia]

Saturday 19-September-2026.

Roma Pineto 19/09/26 32:02 [39/75]

A lovely two lapper through varied scenery with not too many slopes and a view of St Peter’s.

Tourists made up more than half of the attendees with visitors from the Uk, Poland, Czech, Australia and New Zealand.

After a shower we headed off to the main train station for the final leg south to home in Cisternino.

Next stop: The End.