Everyday Differences in Puglia: the Ape

Puglia Differences: an occasional series on things that strike this Brit as so very Italian.

The Ape (pronounced ah-pay) is the go-to vehicle of choice for the small scale farmer or tradesman. The most common ones are made by Piaggio, the company that brought you the Vespa scooter. Fun fact: they are named Ape, the Italian word for bee, we presume because of the buzzing noise they make and Vespa is named after the Italian for wasp for the same reason.

And that basically is what this vehicle is, a Vespa: they added a third wheel, a cabin and a flatbed but, underneath it all, it’s still a scooter. It has handlebars instead of a steering wheel and a 50 cc motor. 

Woe betide you if you get stuck behind one up hill as they are not speedy!

They re-engineered a scooter to add a rear axle for the third wheel.

Some have a basic flatbed, some have side rails.

In the old town we get daily rubbish and recycling collections and, because the alleyways are too narrow for a conventional dust cart, they use an Ape instead.

At olive harvest time the local frantolio (oil mill) will have a queue of them lining up to deliver their crop for pressing. 

Likewise at grape harvest time you’ll see them arriving at the local wine co-op with their grapes. 

I'm not sure if this a special edition or somebody is try to emulate "Pimp My Ride"!

In Locorotondo there is even one all decked in white with ribbons for wedding hire. A versatile vehicle indeed!

Pasqua in Puglia 2026

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. 03/06-April-2026.

Friday 03-April-2026.

Surprisingly for a Catholic country, Good Friday is not a public holiday, it is business as usual. My Easter usually starts with a chocolate Easter egg from Mary. One thing I like about this small town is that I even know the chocolatier personally. Antonietta from Chocolab customised this egg for me. This year she is experimenting with a fruity, dark chocolate, flavoured with red fruits. Crunchy and delicious!

Friday evening was a Processione dei Misteri (Parade of the Mysteries). It consists of several floats decorated with wooden, canvas, and glue sculptures representing the passion and death of Jesus. These are paraded around the town on the shoulders of the faithful.

Normally I observe the parade from our top terrace. This year I decided to go down and stand in our doorway for a ringside seat.

Another statue.

Heading for the crucifixion.

I’m guessing this is Christ risen.

And this Christ demonstrating the stigmata.

Saturday 04-April-2026.

Salento 04/06/26 24:24 [10/20].

Saturday in Italy means an early alarm for the hour and 10 minutes drive down to our nearest parkrun. We had to be especially early this week as we were picking up a couple of tourists from Lecce, holidaying there without a car.

Mary striding in at the finish.

As always, it’s a picnic in the park at the end of parkrun, today featuring a Colomba Pasquale a traditional Easter cake vaguely in the shape of a dove. It tastes very like the panettone that you get at Christmas. There was also a "Ramo di Primavera" - the Spring Branch - another typical Easter cake.

I get a volunteer credit for post event clear up: I drive round the course picking up the signs. I was pleased to see a hoopoe strutting along the track giving me this photo opportunity.

Sunday 05-April-2026.

A quiet day. We tried the special Easter menu at our local nearest restaurant Osteria Lagravinese. A ridiculous number of dishes and all excellent. We were completely stuffed by the end and had to go for a lie down.

Menu di Pasqua

Antipasti

• Carpaccio de pesce spada su julienne de finocchio
• Gambero mazzancolle con ananas e melone
• Riso Venere al pesto con pomodorini e sfilaco di cacioricotta
• Sformatino de patate e mousse ai porcini
• Cozza nero ripiena con pomodorini
• Mazzancolle con coda croccante alla speck
• Misto fritto del osteria (polpetta de patate con salmone, verdure miste pastellate)

Primi Piatti

• Tagliolini al nera de seppia, gamberetto dell'Adriatico, pomodorini e pesto al pistacchio
• Pacchero, carciafo croccante e pancetta

Secondo Piatto

• Agnello cotto a bassa temperatura con contorno de patate
• Frittura mista dell'Adriatico

Dolce della Tradizione

• Bevande e digestivi.

Monday 06-April-2026.

After the horrible wet weather of the last couple of weeks, it really brightened up over the weekend. We decided to do one of our favourite walks that we call the Hidden Valley as it is a bit of a unspoiled gem. A big loop of just over 8km through some quiet countryside with lovely spring flowers starting to emerge.

Flowers plus a common brimstone butterfly (on the yellow daisy).

Easter Monday is the big religious day here in Cisternino celebrating of Madonna d'Ibernia with various religious events during the day and a parade round the town which we missed.

Concluding with a huge firework display visible from our terrace.

As always photos do not do them justice.

That's Easter for another year.

Terrace Storage Box

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. June-2025/March-2026.

Part 1: Construction.

We got bored of dismantling the terrace furniture every autumn and carting it all down the stairs into the living room then reversing the process in the spring.

Since the furniture included a couple of daybeds, there were no storage boxes large enough to accommodate two bed bases and all the other stuff. We got creative and found a bicycle store which was just large enough to take the bases and everything else.

Duly purchased from Leroy Merlin (Italy’s equivalent of the British home improvement store B&Q) we took delivery of the flat pack. I thought assembling IKEA furniture was tough but this took the biscuit.

Stage one was assemble the base and install the uprights. The illustrations were unclear so, having slotted in all the side panels I discovered they were upside down, had to undo it all, turn them over and reassemble.

Once completed, it was, indeed, capacious enough for everything on the terrace: two daybeds, two tables, six chairs, two sun loungers and a barbecue. 

Part 2: Destruction.

In February, Cisternino had gusts of wind up to 100kph (62 mph). Despite us having fitted additional padlocks and clips, the winds ripped the lid off the storage box and deposited it down in the street. We were alerted by the very nice Gaetano who runs the linen shop and apartments along the street. Luckily no-one seems to have been around when it happened. It is only light plastic however it still could have injured someone or, at the very least, given them a nasty shock if they had been in that part of the street at that time.

Our friend Pietro went round later that day to check it out and secure the contents. 

Whilst he was there he spotted that the chimney cowl belonging to the restaurant on the ground floor was looking a bit precarious.

Pietro alerted the fire brigade who came and made it safe. Being metal and heavy if that had fallen and hit anyone or anything it would have been disastrous!

The cowl has since been chopped down and reinstated with copious numbers of rivets to hold it in place. 

Part 3: Re-construction.

That left us with the problem of how to replace the lid of the box to keep the contents dry. Eventually the answer was a return trip to Leroy Merlin where we found a sturdy sheet of plastic roofing that was just the right size.

The first step was to move the box across the terrace to over the gully that separates us from our neighbours where it is sheltered by the roof stairs next door and further from the edge of the terrace.

We installed the new cover with a nut and bolt at each corner, extra bungees along the long edge and a long bungee around the whole thing.

We are more confident with this arrangement: the box is in a more sheltered position; the cover and bungees are flexible so hopefully will flex in the wind rather than break; and if anything snaps off it should fall onto the terrace or into the gulley rather than fall to the street.

This last week has seen torrential rain most days and it seems to be doing a good job of keeping the contents dry. The real test is the next time we have hurricane force winds!

Elles Bailey at Islington Assembly Rooms

London, England. Thursday 19-March-2026.

This is the eighth or ninth time we have seen Elles and obviously we keep coming back for more. This concert was the start of a tour to promote her latest album “Can’t Take My Story Away”. 

As always Elles is very supportive of other artists and used this tour as an opportunity to promote a band we’ve never heard of Caitlin Krisko & The Broadcast a band from South Carolina. Normally they play with a full line-up but just the two of them flew over for this tour. They will be returning in the autumn with the full band. They played a half hour set and got an enthusiastic reception

After a short break Elles came on with her band now augmented by trumpet and sax. The latter definitely added a richer sound to the band and it was all sounding like they were ready for the big time. The venue was packed - it definitely looked like a sell out. Surely they are ready for stadium size venues.

The set list was evenly split between songs from the latest album and a selection of tracks from her back catalogue.

Elles looking the part in her trademark sparkles, rocking the rhinestone cowboy, Americana look. I once went to a gig where the band all wore grey suits, looking like a bunch of accountants. I like a bit of visual pizzazz from my entertainers. It’s not just about the music. It’s also about the entertainment, the show they put on.

As with many of Elle’s gigs, the lovely and talented Demi Mariner was on stage to provide additional vocals and play a range of percussion in addition to guitar.

At the end they got a well deserved standing ovation.

City Break - Belfast

Belfast, Northern Ireland. Friday/Monday 06/09-March-2026.

Our first ever trip to Northern Ireland. Oh, look there is a Queen’s parkrun which gives us a “Q” for our second alphabet!

Friday 06-March-2026.

Another first: flying out of Newcastle Airport. A modest sized, regional airport slightly larger than Southampton and on a much more human scale than the London behemoths of Gatwick and Heathrow.

Our accommodation was in the Queen’s University area which, like many cities that expanded in the Victorian era, was a mixture of typical bow-fronted terraces with a mixture of Georgian until you got closer to the centre when shiny office blocks took over. 

Supper at the local Holohan’s Pantry including the not-often-seen Guinness West Indies Porter.

Saturday 07-March-2026.

One of the high points of the weekend is that #parkrun/parkwalk in Northern Ireland, like the Republic of Ireland and Scotland, does not start till 9:30 so we get an extra half hour in bed.

Queen's Belfast 06/03/26 31:21 [126/183]

Fabulous event with sun and blue skies. A lovely, slightly convoluted course composed of an out and back with a loop round twice at the far end with its own out and back. Mostly on tarmac paths, around sports pitches and parklands with mostly gentle ups and downs. 

Great crowd of marshals so no chance of getting lost, thanks to all of them. Lots of tourists, some like us, there for the "Q". Cafe at the sports ground for parkfaff afterwards..

Afternoon was sightseeing. Here are just a few of the fabulous buildings in and around the centre. Clockwise from top: Queens University, view along May Street and the back of the City Hall, the bustling St. George's Market and a splendid looking former Methodist Church sadly now boarded up.

We booked a two-day open top bus ticket and spent some of the afternoon being driven round the city. Then got off and had a nose round the foyer of the city hall with some impressive stained glass windows. 

Appropriately these included the Belfast Women's Window, as it was the eve of International Women's Day. The window was unveiled in the week of International Women’s Day 2016 by the Lord Mayor, Councillor Arder Carson on Thursday 3 March 2016 and was designed, manufactured and installed by Alpha Stained Glass.

Celtic Myths & Legends Window 

"This window was commissioned to contribute to our shared history and to demonstrate that this is a City Hall for all. The central story is from the Cattle Raid of Cooley in the Ulster Cycle of myths. Queen Medbh of Connacht and her warriors attempted to steal the great bull, Donn Cuailnge, owned by the men of Ulster. Medbh wanted the bull to match the white bull of Connacht, Finnbennach, owned by her husband. The central figure is Cuchulain shown at the 'Gap of the North, protecting the borders of Ulster against the onslaught by Medbh's armies. The Connacht warriors were no match for Cuchulain, who was said to become divine when engaged in battle. The Irish text on the window roughly translates as a blessing be upon all such as faithfully keep the Tain in memory as it stands here and shall not add any other form to it and was taken from the 12th Century Book of Leinster."

That evening we had an excellent seafood supper at Mourne Seafood Bar followed by a stoll round to soak up the atmosphere.

We ended up in Lavery's for a night cap with excellent live music from Donal Scullion and the House Band.

Sunday 08-March-2026. 

After breakfast we took the bus into town for a meander round the river and visit the Salmon of Knowledge.

We then took the open top bus tour (day 2) and completed the rest of the route we didn't cover on the Saturday. We were booked in for the Titanic Exhibition which, as it turned out, was not just about the liner but also featured extensive information about the growth of Belfast through its massive expansion in the Victorian era thanks to the linen and shipbuilding industries.

Included in the ticket was a tour of SS Nomadic which acted as tender to ferry passengers to the Titanic at the start of that fateful voyage. The SS Nomadic toilets feature Thomas Crapper’s Valveless Waste Preventer.

That evening, we dined in The Crown Liquor Saloon. We ate upstairs in the less fancy dining room and then went down to find ourselves a snug in which to have one last drink and admire the fabulous Victorian décor:

Our snug!

George and the girls drank Guinness but many of the pubs serve an Irish red ale which for me is a very acceptable alternative to Best Bitter.

Back to the apartment tired after a full day.

Monday 09-March-2026. 

Up bright and early for a flight at 10:30. At Newcastle we were parked in the short stay 2 carpark in the corner nearest to the terminal and carrying hand luggage only which meant a fast getaway and home in time for lunch.