Showing posts with label interrail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label interrail. Show all posts

Saturday, September 19, 2026

Southbound 2026 - Rome

Rome, Italy. Wednesday/Saturday 16/19-September-2026.

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Introduction.

The final stop on our grand tour: Rome for three nights including a parkrun, as part of our mission to tick off all the Italian parkruns. 

Wednesday 16-September-2026.

A horribly early start with a 5:30 am alarm driven by the taxi sharing logistics. We went with the people bound for morning flights from Pisa. They were able to make a slight detour en-route and drop us at Sienna railway station. The flexibility of the Interrail pass meant we could catch a train just about to leave for Florence and amend our seat reservations on the Florence to Rome leg rather than hang around for hours at Sienna.

We got to the apartment early so went for lunch at the local pizza joint, 6zero1, for a very tasty salad.

That evening we decided to eat locally at Osteria Romana dal 1949 which had reasonable ratings. We went for a set menu with starter, pasta and main. The local Lazio speciality pasta cacio e pepe was supposed to be a tasting portion, but it was more like a full sized dish, too much! I thought I’d go out of my comfort zone and try the oxtail stew for the main. I figured it would be something like rabbit where you have to pick the meat off the bones. In this case the meat was chewy and full of gristly bits and so I left the majority of it. I won’t make that mistake again!

Thursday 17-September-2026.

The morning was a fascinating visit to Ostia Antica - the ancient port of Rome during the period of the Roman Empire.

It was very extensive, took hours and hours to explore and is still being excavated.  It was so interesting we didn’t want to miss any of it. We had lunch in the café on-site and then a quick visit round the museum. On the way in we saw a team working on new excavation; on the way out we got a good view of some of what they had uncovered that day. Amazing to see amphorae in such good condition emerging from the sand.

We saw green parakeets. My bird app identified them as Monk Parakeets unlike London which has Ring-Necked Parakeets. 

It was something something like 4 o’clock before we got back to the apartment for a late afternoon rest.

The evening meal was at Beva Vineria, a restaurant with a wide selection of over 1000 wines, many of which were offered by the glass to accompany your chosen dishes.


The starter was a selection of salami from the Cinta Senese: an ancient native Italian breed of pig from Tuscany that is black with a single white belt.

We cannot remember what we had for main courses but they were delicious as well.

Friday 18-September-2026.

The morning’s activity was a walk up to the Vatican City from Roma St. Pietro station following a disused papal railway line, the Passeggiata del Gelsomino. It was advertised as a hidden gem, in my view it was neither hidden nor a gem. It was a short walk, only half a kilometre. It did have a lovely view of Saint Peter’s but other than that was very disappointing.

It is also a triumph of poorly executed civil engineering. The path has neither camber nor slope and inadequate drainage so when the rains came down, we had to walk through puddles that stretched the entire width of the pathway at several points.

Here the tracks disappear under Vatican City.

We continue to walk around the Vatican City and then away from touristy areas to find ourselves a nice restaurant for lunch.

After lunch we went to see a major retrospective of Kandinsky.  

En route we passed this stunning column. From Wikipedia: 

“The Column of Marcus Aurelius is a Roman victory column located in Piazza Colonna, Rome, Italy. A Doric column adorned with a detailed spiral relief, it was built in honor of Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius and modeled after Trajan's Column. Dedicated to the emperor and his military campaigns during the Barbarian Wars, the monument stands as a testament to his reign from 161 to 180 AD. The column's frieze, approximately 367 feet (112 meters) long, spirals upward 21 times, depicting the emperor’s campaigns against the Germanic and Sarmatian tribes.”

The Kandinsky exhibition was in the Palazzo Bonaparte and the majority of the pieces were on loan from the Pompidou Centre in France. We downloaded an audio guide to the 20 most important pieces in the exhibition which took about a hour and a half. Without that we might have been there for hours and hours.

The pictures were amazing and the exhibition showcased his stylistic evolution. Also fascinating to learn about his links to the Bauhaus and the various avant-garde movements of the time.

Back for a late afternoon rest and that evening a pinsa* back at 6zero1, the local pizza joint.

* Pinsa, also known as pinsa romana, is a flatbread generally marketed as an oval-shaped style of, or healthier alternative to, pizza. The name originated partly as a marketing strategy, coined by a Rome-based baking family as late as 2001. [Wikipedia]

Saturday 19-September-2026.

Roma Pineto 19/09/26 32:02 [39/75]

A lovely two lapper through varied scenery with not too many slopes and a view of St Peter’s.

Tourists made up more than half of the attendees with visitors from the Uk, Poland, Czech, Australia and New Zealand.

After a shower we headed off to the main train station for the final leg south to home in Cisternino.

Next stop: The End.

Sunday, September 06, 2026

Southbound 2026 - Nuremberg

Nuremberg, Germany. Thursday/Saturday 03/05-September-2026.

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Introduction.

Nuremberg was the real destination for our first city, both to explore and to do a parkrun on the Saturday. 

Thursday 03-September-2026.

The arrangement was to get to our Nuremberg HomeExchange about five o'clock so our hosts could hand over the keys before heading off to the airport for their holiday. It was their first house swap so seemed keen for it to go well. Their apartment is bright and airy and spacious - I'm sure it will be in demand. 

Our first act was to put on the first of several wash loads. One advantage of home exchange is that you staying in real homes so they always have a washing machine which means you can pack light and do regular laundry.

A relax until the laundry was ready to be hung up then out into the town. Wandering around the centre we found the traditional Franconian Lorenzer Wirtshaus and after a short wait got a balcony table with a view of the church and the square. As often our evening meal started with a weiss and red beer combo!

They served flammkuchen which I first met in Alsace and hadn’t had for a while so for me was an easy menu choice. Mary went for bratwurst and salad.

Friday 04-September-2026.

We booked a morning tour of the tunnels and secret passages in the castle walls. 


To quote Mary’s review: 

“Fascinating trip with Monica. She was so enthusiastic and well-informed about the castle and the underground defences that you could not help but be enamoured. She provided lots of interesting information about the historical context, how the castle defences were constructed and the impact of each of the design features. She was very careful to warn us of the hazards - uneven floors and stairs, damp conditions, steep slopes, etc - showing real concern for our welfare. We would definitely recommend this trip”.

The tunnels ran round the inside of the walls providing multiple ports for firing at would-be attackers. It was a hot day but down in the tunnel it was distinctly cool.

After the tour we dined at The Golden Posthorn, the oldest wine tavern in Germany. Mary had a delicious warm chanterelle salad whilst I just had a beer as I wasn't hungry.

The afternoon was spent wandering about the town. In Nuremberg Cathedral they have a cross made of nails from the bombed out Coventry Cathedral. My father submitted an unsuccessful entry into the competition held in 1950 to find an design for the new Coventry Cathedral, one of over 200 submitted [Wikipedia].

There is a river that runs through the centre of the old town with an island in the middle of the river.

Inside St Sebald's church, a local hermit made saint. His sepulchre is supported by 12 snails all pointing in different directions - very cute.

Frauenkirchen in the main square, one of many ornate churches in the city.

On the opposite side of the square was this very ornate and gilded fountain - a  restored replica of a 14th-century original, built to resemble a Gothic spire.

This house looks like it’s smiling!

That evening we went to an organ recital in St Lorenz cathedral.

Roberto Marini - Organ 

  • Julius Reubke (1834-1858) Sonate über den 94. Psalm 
  • Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750) Ciaccona d-Moll aus der Partita für Violine Nr. 2 BWV 1004 (Orgelbearbeitung: U. Matthey) 
  • Franz Liszt (1811-1886) Funérailles aus Harmonies poétiques et religieuses (Orgelbearbeitung: Roberto Marini) 
  • Max Reger (1873-1916) Fantasie und Fuge über den Namen B-A-C-H op. 46

The evening meal was a walk-in at Takumi Chinese restaurant we stumbled across for a delicious light supper. 

Saturday 05-September/2026.

As always Saturday morning is parkrun.

Wöhrder See 05/09/2026 31:12 [97/154].

The obligatory flag photo.

Mary went round with a woman with Nordic poles going exactly at the pace Mary wanted, so unwittingly became her pacer. She did really well - Mary was aiming for 50 minutes and actually came in at 49:56.

The rest of the day was spent exploring the town. We bought a self-guided tour from VoiceMap which led us around the town and where we learned that if we saw a timber-framed building it was a survivor as the stone buildings were demolished by the bombs.

More lovely survivors…

…and yet more.

The evening meal was a exquisite four course set menu with matching wines at Würzhaus: two starters, main course and desert plus a substantial amuse-bouche and a petit four. Thankfully the portions were modest so we were full but not stuffed.

Next stop: Milan.

Thursday, September 03, 2026

Southbound 2026 - Frankfurt

Frankfurt, Germany. Wednesday/Thursday 02/03-September-2026.

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Introduction.

After the hectic bank holiday weekend in London we headed off on the Eurostar with a change in Brussels to get us as far as Frankfurt. Our target was Nuremberg but the German railway system has a reputation for unreliability so, rather than risk a very late arrival or failure to make it all the way, we decided on an overnight stop in Frankfurt. That would give us a short, two hour journey the next day which we paid for rather than use an interrail pass day. You save the pass travel days for long segments to get best value.

Wednesday 02-September-2026.

The Meeting Place at the international departure platforms is a 9-metre-high, 20-tonne bronze sculpture that is intended to evoke the romance of travel through the depiction of a couple locked in an amorous embrace.

Arriving at Frankfurt the area around the station wasn’t as bad as some people had reported, possibly because the building works had displaced the homeless and drug addicts a street or two back. Our hotel was only a few minutes from the station but we walked straight passed it thanks to invisible signage!

Supper was at Klosterhof near the hotel serving traditional German food and beer. I had a local speciality which comprised excellent roast potatoes and hard boiled eggs on a green sauce - apparently a seven herbs concoction developed by monks. Mary had her first bratwurst of the year.

And, of course beer to wash them down. Mary prefers the weisse but the German red beer is more to my taste. 

Thursday 03-September-2026. 

We had the morning to explore before our train after lunch. Wandering the streets of Frankfurt you would never guess how badly it was bombed in the the Second World War.

We visited the relatively austere cathedral. As shown above it somehow escaped the bombing with only damage to one wing. Most of the windows are now very plain and and the few colourful windows that remain are presumeably the original, surviving stained glass. We spotted high up on one wall a collection of heraldic shields with curious toppers.

In the immediate aftermath of the war many buildings were reconstructed to original their design, intermingled with modernist shops and offices. Looking around the town it is impossible to tell which are original and which restorations but we read that around 80% of the buildings in the centre were destroyed.

We saw a surprising number of churches, all very pretty. This is Dreikönigskirche on the south side of the river.

A view from the top of the Main Tower a recommended tourist attraction: two kilometres up to the 54th floor for panoramic views over the city.


From there we could see size of the Frankfurt main station. It was Frankfurt’s role as a transportation hub that made it a target for the Allied bombing raids.

We were not due to leave for Nuremberg until 2 o'clock so had a noodle lunch at Jaho Kitchen on the way to the station. It was very tasty and so filling that it partly spoiled my appetite for the evening meal.

Next stop: Nuremberg.

Sunday, July 26, 2026

Baltic Tour 2026 - Vilnius

Vilnius, Lithuania. Wednesday/Saturday 22/25-July-2026 

Table of Contents:

Vilnius was meant to be a longer stop with a parkrun. The tea scalding meant a change of plans. 

Wednesday 22-July-2026. 

Between Warsaw and Vilnius we had to change trains at Mockava as we crossed over the border from Poland to Lithuania. This is due to a change of gauge as Lithuania uses the wider Russian broad gauge (1.52 m) inherited from the Soviet era.


Then off to Lithuania and our home exchange apartment. By this time Mary's blisters were still growing and so we asked our host to recommend where to go for medical treatment. She suggested a nearby private clinic that was closed by the time we got there but planned a visit first thing next morning.

That evening we found a nearby bar with some artisanal beers.


Supper was at restaurant Etno Dvaras, just through the archway "Gate of Dawn" into the old town and on the right with a night cap at In Vino wine bar.

Thursday 23-July-2026. 

We were on the clinic’s doorstep as they opened to get Mary's foot looked at, blisters de-roofed (burst and top skin removed) and professionally bandaged. The advice was to rest and keep the foot elevated so we went back to the apartment where Mary lay down to put her foot up. Mary was slightly concerned as the general advice is not to burst but to leave them in-situ for protection purposes. The nurse at the clinic said that their decision was based on the size of the blisters. A quick Google took Mary to a part of the NHS website that confirmed that.

Lunch and supper were in the apartment so Mary could keep her foot up.

Friday 24-July-2026. 

Back to the clinic for a fresh dressing. The advice was the same - keep the foot elevated. Since this holiday was all about doing lots of touristy walking about and parkruns there seemed a little point in continuing so we sadly decided to cut the trip short. We booked a flight back to Gatwick for Saturday afternoon and prepared to leave.

Lunch was in the apartment but that evening we went out for a drink and supper just to get out. We stayed very local to minimise the walking, back to In Vino for a delightful selection of tapas and a few too many glasses of wine.

Saturday 25-July-2026. 

The flight back was uneventful apart from I forgot to present my Italian Permesso di Soggiorno with my passport and, before I knew it, was entered into the EES. Fortunately upon my return, I was able to get myself redacted from the system but that’s another story.

Our arrival time was too late to make it all the way back to Penrith so we stayed overnight at a Stansted Airport hotel.  

Sunday 27-July-2026. 

In the morning, we took the train / tube to Euston where we were able to use one of our Interrail travel days on the train up to Penrith.

Epilogue: Back in Penrith at the surgery on Monday Mary's dressing was changed by a nurse who was pleased with how the burn was healing. By the third visit on the following Wednesday (5th August) the nurse was sufficiently happy that Mary did not need to go back.

Tuesday, July 21, 2026

Baltic Tour 2026 - Warsaw

Warsaw, Poland, Tuesday 21-July-2026 Tuesday 

Table of Contents:

After a successful time in Gdansk we had another two day trip to get us to Vilnius. We decided to break the journey at Warsaw. Since we had been to Warsaw before we didn’t need any more than one night there. 

Tuesday 21-July-2026. 

And this is where it all went badly wrong. On the train I put up the little side table for my tea from the trolley but failed to ensure it was properly locked in place. It collapsed under the weight of the tea and the scalding hot tea dropped on Mary's foot scalding it badly. On arrival at our hotel I immediately went back out for soothing spray and lint for emergency first aid.

We then went out in in search of beer and food close by so Mary didn't have to walk too far. We found a whimsically name Jabeerwocky with an extensive beer board. 

They also offered beer paddles so we got to try a variety of styles. The red one was a spicy tomato beer, basically a Bloody Mary beer - Mary approved.

Then it was off for another gastronomic first - a Georgian restaurant. I ordered a dish advertised as kebab but which basically turned out to be herby lamb chops, served with roast potatoes and grilled tomatoes.

Mary reported that her veal stew was delicious.

Wednesday 22-July-2026. 

Up early to buy a picnic lunch having learned our lesson from the day before. Then off to Lithuania.

Next stop: Vilnius.

Baltic Tour 2026 - Gdansk / Malbork

Gdansk / Malbork, Poland, Thursday/Monday 16/20-July-2026

Table of Contents:

Thursday 16-July-2026.

After a pleasant overnight in Pardubice the next stop was Gdansk with yet another wonderfully ornate main station. Despite being a bit off our track this was a place Mary wanted to visit for its historic significance (and a parkrun) so we planned a four night stop here.

Our Home Exchange apartment was just north of the city centre. There was a classic “desire path” cutting the corner at the end of the road.

After so much restaurant dining in the last week or so we decided to eat light by cooking in the apartment - pork with paprika and boiled potatoes.

Friday 17-July-2026.

We took a train over to Malbork for an overnight stay in Malbork to snag ”Z” for our second alphabet - “parkrun Zamek w Malborku”. Zamek means castle in Polish and there’s a clue in the name. 

We dumped our bags at the Premium Bed and Breakfast very close to the parkrun and went off to explore the town starting with the castle. It is difficult to visualise how big it is. 

We only looked around the outside of the castle buildings and at a good pace but it still took more than an hour. It is the largest brick building in Europe and has three concentric moats. 

Some original old tiles featuring creatures, elsewhere they had been replaced with modern versions.

Evening meal was at restaurant Kamienica with an oenological first - Polish rosé!

Saturday 18-July-2026.

parkrun Zamek w Malborku, 18/06/26 31:25 [22/31]

The B&B offered a ludicrously generous breakfast unfortunately, due to our imminent parkrun, we were not able to take full advantage of the abundance.

A very soggy parkrun, possibly our wettest ever. Amongst the fellow tourists were a couple we met in Sicily at Uditore parkrun back in May - small world! Normally they have 70 to 80 participants. The rain kept most regulars away but us parkrun tourists are not put off so easily! Ten of the 31 attendees were British.

As we lined up for the start the heavens opened.

The first and second finishers were soaked but happy such is the parkrun spirit. With credit to Zbigniew Jazdzewski for the photos.

After the obligatory shower we did a suggested walk around Malbork and then it was off to the station to reverse out journey back to Gdansk for lunch. We had a lovely light lunch of antipasti at Trattoria Al Dente.

We relaxed in the afternoon then went out looking at old buildings in the town centre. Having worked up a thirst we went for a craft ale at Under Beer followed by a lovely meal at Thai Thai including a tasty spicy mango margarita for Mary. 

We like Thai food but since moving out of London it is a rare treat. Penrith doesn’t run to one and Italy doesn’t really do foreign restaurant outside of the major cities.

Sunday 19-July-2026.

We took a Buggy tour to get a feel for the lay of the land. Our guide was the lively and informative Tomasz, a grandson of Lech Wałęsa! The picture he is holding is of his dad, son of Lech, between Bush and Reagan. 

We visited areas of the famous shipyards including this monument to the 17 workers killed in 1970. Apparently the first monument built by the Communists for people killed by the Communists. 

The plaque reads:

“Memorial of the fallen shipyard workers 1970. A token of everlasting remembrance of the slaughter victims. A warning to rulers that no social conflict in our country can be resolved by force. A sign of hope for fellow citizens that evil need not prevail.”

A light Japanese lunch at Sakamoto-Ya followed by a wander round town. These are some of the red brick buildings around Gdansk town centre. The bottom left shows how they preserve and make use of any ruins of the original buildings.

The World War 2 museum is high on the list of must-see sites in Gdansk. It takes two to three hours even at a steady pace. We learned so much from our visits to the museum and reflected on how some people and countries don't seem to be learning from the mistakes of the past. This poster was a quote describing the post war political landscape.

The birth and growth of totalitarianisms
Democracy in crisis after the First World War

“When the First World War ended, most countries in Europe were parliamentary democracies. But in many of them democracy soon came under attack. In some, including Poland in 1926, democratic governments were replaced by authoritarian regimes. In the Soviet Union, Italy and Germany, governments adhering to totalitarian ideologies - Communism, Fascism and National Socialism - came to power.
What they had in common was their leaders' drive for absolute control, the use of terror and aggressive propaganda, contempt for democracy, a drive to regulate their societies, and great-power ambitions. Their counterpart in the Far East was Japanese imperialism.
”

Continuing our wandering we went down to the docks where this historic crane was originally powered by four men in a giant hamster wheel.

The evening meal was classy dining at Canis, friendly service, wonderful food and an extensive wine list in a lovely setting.

Monday 20-July-2026.

We had to have at least one meal of pierogi as I think of it as Poland’s national dish. It made a great lunch on a day devoted to sightseeing.

Gdansk-Lenin shipyard gate number two where we did the Solidarity Museum.

The evening was more craft ale with beer and meal by Brovarnia.

We do like a tasting paddle to try different beers. They only had three beers on tap at the time so we might have to come back in the autumn / winter to taste their dark beers.

The schnitzel was ludicrously large, almost as large as the plate; I couldn’t eat it all.

That evening we booked for a classical concert at the Polish Baltic Philharmonic. A solo pianist, Daniel Zimko, playing Chopin & Ravel:

  • Nocturne in F major, Op. 15, No. 1, 
  • Ballade in F major, Op. 38,
  • A cycle of Chopin's outstanding piano miniatures, the Waltzes, Op. 34. 
  • From Ravel's works, the pianist had chosen Le Tombeau de Couperin.

From the balcony we had a great view of his impressive fingerwork.

Tuesday 21-July-2026.

Up early for breakfast at the main station and purchase of a picnic lunch for the train trip to Warsaw.

Next stop: Warsaw