Charteris final wine tasting

London, England. Thursday 20-October-2011

I have been going to the Charteris Wine Society tastings since 2005. Always interesting and entertaining and now sadly no more. It is (was) a work based wine group and as people retired or left the company it has been harder and harder for the organisers to keep the tempo up. So the mission for the final speaker was to blow the budget and dispose of all the surplus funds built over the last couple of decades.



The presenter was Robin Lane (http://winesuppliersupport.co.uk/home.html) and his brief was "personal favourites" which, given that he has over 30 years experience in the wine trade, has got to be interesting.


Jeremy Labram introducing Robin Lane...

... and this is what he came up with:

• Menetou Salon Blanc Jean Teiller 2010
• Pouilly Fuisse Domaine Daniel Barraud 2008
• Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee d'Antigny (Avery Bottled) 1976
• Lar de Paula, Rioja, Viñedos Viejos, 2005
• Hermitage Alain Graillot 2007
• Chateau Haut Batailly 1996
• Franz K Smit 2005
• Quarts de Chaume Chateau de Pierre Bise 2009

My favourite of the evening was the Franz K Smit 2005.



Mary was not able to make it so our old friend Bron stepped in at the last moment - what a trooper!


Carolyn and Bron

What makes a good wine tasting is not just the wines but the back story that goes with each of them; that we got from Robin. A fine farewell tasting.

Bordeaux 2000 tasting at Charteris Wine Society

Another Charteris wine tasting this time on the theme of 2000 Bordeaux. A couple of members had bought two mixed cases from The Wine Society a while ago and now we get to taste.

• Chateau Doisy Daene Sec. Barsac. 2007 (sic)
• Chateau Clos Sainte-Anne. Pomerol. 2000
• Chateau Lucie. Saint-Emilion. 2000
• Chateau Belair. Saint-Emilion. 2000
• Chateau Belgrave Haut-Medoc. 2000
• Chateau Lafon-Rochet. Saint-Estephe. 2000
• Chateau Langoa Barton. Saint-Julien. 2000
• Chateau Durfort-Vivens. Margaux. 2000

Again I shall spare you my notes but I think my palate was on good form as my scribbles seemed to accord with the general view. As is usual the wines were presented in order of price / expected quality and lived up to that sequencing.

My favourites were the Sainte-Anne - probably because of the Merlot - and the Belgrave - it may not be the very best of the evening but it tickled my palate.

We got one bottle that had bad cork taint. There are people who lack confidence to send back corked wine. A couple of times, in restaurants, we have used an off bottle to educate a less experienced waiter by getting them to sniff the old and replacement bottles (in the glass). With this crowd and this intensity of TCA that was hardly necessary.

A very interesting canter round both left and right banks ably presented by Bill Nippress.

Seven Flavours from Spain

Another fine tasting from the Charteris Wine Society. This time the presenter was Andrew Bird, a brand manager from M&S, and the wines he was presenting were all from their own label Spanish range. Not only did we learn about their wines but also got a fascinating insight into both the wine trade and Marks & Spencer's own culture.

It would appear that all their wines are own label and, unlike some supermarket chains who simply buy wines from the producers and relabel them, M&S employ their own winemakers to work with the producers on the assemblage. As a result what you are tasting is a wine unique to M&S.

It would appear that M&S (or their customers) are very Euro centric with the countries most heavily represented being France and Italy with Spain coming number three. Whereas most supermarkets tend to lead on the USA.



1. Vintage Rosado Cava, Pinot Noir, 2006. GBP 9.99
Dark pink with a fresh fruity nose with elements of green strawberry and red currants, brut on the palate. We then got an interesting history of Cava and its reliance on indigenous grape varieties.

Also interesting to note that the more conservative M&S customers drink proportionally less than do the customers of other supermarket chains. And in France overall they drink a far greater proportion of rosé than do the UK public.

2. Val do Salnes Albarino, Rias Baixas, 2007. GBP 9.99
Pale lemon colour and a green straw or grass, knows with a hint of grapes and melon. On the nose it seemed quite round and unctuous and sweet but I found it tad flabby.

3. Campo Aldea Rioja Riserva, Graciano, 2005. GBP 9.99
Cherry red with a dark wood, blackberry nose. Very soft and fruity. In my view one of the better Riojas, with a good length.

4. Marques de Grinon, Calzia, Syrah / Petit Verdot, 2006. GBP 8.99
Dark cherry colour with their distinct Murillo Cherry nose. palette blackberry jam with a hint of tang. We were regaled with tales of vine smuggling when the producer introduced French vines into Spain in contravention of their laws.

5. Bellmunt Priorat 2006. GBP 12.99
An inky red colour with a nose both floral and cheesy at the same time. The tannins were much more marked than in previous wine and not merely as jammy a flavour. A mongrel blend of grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon merlot, garnacha negra, syrah and carignan. I learned that the garnacha is the world's most planted grape.

6 Pena del Infierno, Ribera del Duro 2006. GBP 19.00
Very inky with a hint of brown and definitely not as clear as the other wines. Jammy and alcoholic at 14.5 ABV with plenty of tannins. I have to say not for me I preferred number five there was something of the farmyard and metallic about it.

7. Lustau Palo Cortado Sherry. GBP 9.99
Light caramel in colour and on the palate also with a velvety toffee flavour. But drier to taste than the nose might have led one to believe.

An excellent and educational tasting.

Charteris Wine Society: a Tour of New Zealand

The views expressed here are those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of M&M Enterprises.

Translation: Mary disassociates herself from these random notes of dubious accuracy. Any remaining errors are the my responsibility.

Another enjoyable evening of wine tasting at the Charteris Wine Society. This time a varietal canter round New Zealand including an introduction to the wine growing regions.

• Cloudy Bay Pelorus Sparkling NV (£12.76) - apple notes and very tart; a bit too brut for me.
• Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Pinot Gris 2006 (£11.06) - to me it smelled of midori but the flavour appealed to my sweeter palette. More enjoyable than a number of disappointing Italian efforts but too sweet for Mary.
• Delta Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (£8.59) - the aroma was a nasal assault of the most overwhelming gooseberry; on the palette - clean and crisp. The tartness was right up Mary's street but too sharp for me.
• Pegasus Bay Chardonnay 2005 (£13.27) - I got warm bread and putty on the nose. A fairly heavily oaked old world style
• Wild Earth Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 (£15.31) - sharp maraschino on the nose and unripe cheery on the toungue with a hint of strawberry.
• Saint Clair Pioneer Block 14 Doctors Creek Pinot Noir 2007 (£15.06) - warm wood smoke on the nose and soft red fruit in the mouth. My preference of the two PN.
• Ata Rangi Celebre 2006 (£17.45) - So called Bordeaux blend but a bit of a misnomer with all that Syrah (50% Marlot, 30% Syrah, 20% Cab Sauv) - soft leafy forest nose and gentle tannins
• Villa Maria Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (£13.61) - to quote someone there "a glass staining monster". Not so impressed myself, I got the faintest hint of mustiness on the nose and palette.

All wines available from The New Zealand House of Wine in Haslemere. Note: prices ex-VAT.

After which we went for supper at Vinoteca just the other side of Smithfield Market for a very fine supper of an aubergine based starter and pappardelle with wild mushrooms which was the best thing I have eaten in ages.

Italian Wine Tasting at Charteris Wine Society

More specifically wines from The Wine Society presented by Nicolas Belfrage MW, an Italian wine specialist who helps the Society select their Italian range. We used "The Society's Guide to Italy" written by Nicolas as our agenda working through all 10 wines, two whites then the reds working North to South:

White wines
 • Coffele Soave Classico, 2006
 • Le Giuncare Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva, 2004 (Monte Schiavo)
The North East
 • Boglietti Barbera d'Alba, 2006
 • Pio Cesare Nebbiolo d'Alba, 2004
The North West
 • Hofstatter Pinot Nero Riserva, 2002
 • Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Allegrini, 2001
Central Italy
 • Poggiopiano Chianti Classico, 2004
 • Flaccianello della Pieve, IGT Toscana, Fontodi, 2004
Southern Italy
 • Agliancio del Vulture DOC 'Armand', 2001
 • Brindisi Rosso, Vigna Flaminio, 2004 (Vallone)

Of the whites I preferred the the Soave to the Verdecchio although the latter cost 50% more, and I was not alone there.

Not surprisingly my fave was the Amarone (gobs of fruit to use a Robert Parker-ism) but the Flaccianello, which was a new one on me, was right up there with it. The latter is a Super Tuscan and at GBP 32 and 33 respectively there was a gnats whisker between them in price and quality although the Amarone got my vote. However for that price I could drink four bottles of the Chianti Classico - hmmm, tough call!

Working North to South was a bit unfair on our chosen alternative homeland of Puglia. The last two were perfectly OK drinking wines but at GBP 5.95 the poor old Brindisi Rosso trailed home after the two Tuscans. However I still preferred both of the Southern reds to either the Nebbiolo or the Pinot Nero.

All in all another interesting and educational tasting.

Charteris Wine Tasting - ABC

No, not the usual "Anything But Chardonnay" but instead "Anything But Champagne". A seasonal tasting of sparkling wines from around the world to see who could give France a run for its money.

Wine

(Region, Country) Method

Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Frizzante

(Veneto, Italy) Tank

Cremant de Luxembourg Riesling Cuvee de, l'Ecusson Brut

(Luxembourg Moselle, Luxembourg) Traditionelle

Sumarroca Extra Brut

(Cava(Subirates), Spain) Traditionelle

Pelorus, Vintage 2002

(Cloudy Bay, Marlborough, New Zealand) Traditionelle

Mumm Cuvee Napa Rose NV

(California, USA) Traditionelle

Chapel Down Century Extra Dry

(Kent, England) Traditionelle

Bleasdale Langhorne Creek Sparkling Shiraz

(South Australia, Australia) Tank

Perrone Moscato d'Asti

(Asti, Piemonte, Italy) Tank

Blanquette de Limoux

(Limoux, France) Ancestrale

A tasting of two halves: dry sparkling, a half-time rosé and then the sweet sparkling. For me champagnes normally run from the crisp lemon end of the spectrum to the biscuity, yeasty end. These, oddly enough, all seemed to major on apple, with the odd hint of melon (Sumarroca) , lychee (Pelorus) or blackcurrant (Bleasdale).

My favourite of the first flight was the Cremant de Luxembourg and of the second the Chapel Down. Interesting since neither Luxembourg nor England are the obvious place to look for a good sparkling.

And as for the sparkling shiraz the kindest thing one could say is it was an interesting experiment but not one that should be repeated.

Loire Wine Tasting at Charteris Wine Society

Another fine wine tasting at the Charteris Wine Society excellently chosen by Charles and co-presented by Jeremy. In fact, I would say, their best yet. A good wine tasting has a theme and structure, this had several:

• Firstly of course the river. A tour upstream and then back down showing the river's wide range of grapes and styles.
• Secondly the "dinner party" sequence: dry 'aperitif' white, full 'food' white, light red, full bodied red, sweet white (but no room for the sweet red).
• Thirdly several wines were in pairs to allow a compare-and-contrast learning.
• Fourthly all bar one readily available from the same merchant (The Wine Society) thus showing the Society to advantage.

The wines - grape variety:

• Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Le Clos du Château L'Oiselinière, 2002 (Chéreau-Carré) - muscadet
• Savennières, L'Enclos, 2004 (Eric Morgat) - chenin blanc
• Coteaux du Giennois, Domaine de Villargeau, 2006 (Marc Thibault) - sauvignon blanc
• Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy, 2004 - sauvignon blanc
• Sancerre Rosé, Domaine Serge Laloue, 2006 - pinot noir
• Côte Roannaise, Vieilles Vignes, 2006 (Sérol) - gamay
• St Nicolas de Bourgueil, Les Rouillères, 2005 (Frédéric Mabileau) - cabernet franc
• Chinon, Domain du Raifault, "Le Villy", Cuvee Prestige, 1995 - cabernet franc
• Coteaux de la Loire, Moelleux, Vieille Sève, 2004 (Alain Boré) - chenin blanc
• Vouvray, Clos du Bourg, Moelleux, 1989 (Huet) - chenin blanc

And what did I learn?

• The Loire produces an extraordinary range of wines.
• The Gamay grape used to be one of my favorites. Moulin a Vent was one of the wines that moved me into red. But now it has dropped off my radar as a wine of choice.
• Rose wine I have always said goes well with Salad Nicoise and Seafood paella. Now I will add Sushi to the list (after I have given it a try). And this rose is a particularly girlie pink colour.
• My tastes are predictable. Mary wrote on her list "Mark will like this" against the St Nicolas de Bourgueil. How right she was - jammy and full of fruit.
• In the sweetie shoot-out the less obvious but better wine did win. The Coteaux de la Loire was sweet and enjoyable but the Vouvray, Clos du Bourg, Moelleux was a far subtler and more complex wine. Quality will out, in the end.

Previously:

• Austrian Wine Tasting at Charteris Wine Society
• Southern France: a new World of Wine
• New World versus Old
• Wines from the Veneto

Austrian Wine Tasting at Charteris Wine Society

Another interesting tasting at the Charteris Wine Society, this time Austrian wines. It is always good to try something different and expand one's wine horizon. This time the wines were ably presented by Christian Malnig of Kipferl, an Austrian Deli just around the corner at 70 Long Lane, London EC1A 9EJ.

I did not know the Gruner Veltliner grape but it seems Austria grows a lot of indigenous varieties and this is the most popular accounting for 36% of the nation's production. Very enjoyable and comparable to the best of Alsace varietals any day. Also it is a nation of small producers; the average grower has a mere 3 hectares!

Christian dealt with the high volume of chatter but doing not so much presenting standing at the front but more visiting each table in turn for a sit down chat. That worked well, especially as the individual attention meant we could ask specific questions.

He and his wife also presented us with platters of Austrian meats and, for the sweet wines, various delicious pastries.

Notes

C: colour; N: nose; P: palette; ** = favourite; -- = not favourite

Whites

Gruner Veltliner Alte Reuben, Selection, Weixelbaum 2005 (GBP 8.99) **

C: mid-yellow; N: peppery / spicy; P rich complex, unctuous, steely aftertaste, bit of acid tingle. My favourite and that of several others.

Gruner Veltliner Seeberg, Matthias Hager, Kamtal 2004 (GBP 14.49)

C: darker yellow; N; Kiwi fruit; P: not as unctuous, smokey

Reisling Reid Gaisberg, Wahre Werte, Weixelbaum 2005 (GBP 10.49) **

C: yellow; N; powerfiul; P: sweetish Alsace style

Rotgipfler Privat, Schaflerhof, Thermenregion 2005 (GBP 8.49) --

N; very little; P slightly hollow, some grip.

Scheurebe (Samling 88), Stefan Potzinger, Sudsteiermark 2006 (GBP 9.98)

C: vary pale; N: v fragrant, lime-green (SB-like); P: tart apple / unripe melon

Red

Blauer Zweigelt, Daniel Jaunegg, Sudsteiermark 2005 (GBP 8.98)

C: purple: N: sour cherry; P: merlot-like, redcurrant / raspberry

Sweet white wines

Traminer, Stefan Potzinger, Sudsteiermark 2003 (GBP 12.49) ** ½

C: deep yellow; N: pungent / sour; P: sweet yet tangy (good with strudel)

Ziefandler Beerenauslese, Beigler, Gumpoldskirchen 2003 (375cl - GBP 12.49) ***

C: Golden yellow; N: honey, peach; P: very ripe pineapple, sui generis, my kind of wine <G>

Southern France: a new World of Wine

Yesterday was another tough night of eating and drinking in pursuance of our corporate mission - "To eat, drink and have a good time". Once again it was wine tasting at the Charteris Wine Society* which Carolyn described as a wine society with a consultancy attached. Simon, the presenter, did well against the "open outcry" style of discussion.

Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine Clavel, Cascaille 2003 [GBP 6.95]

Lots of comments around light tropical fruits

Viognier, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Domaine Cazel Viel 2004 [GBP 7.99]

More of an "old world" style with 30% new oak barrels

Domaine Alquier Grand Blanc 2003 [GBP 12.95]

Generally felt to be a bit flat and disappointing.

Le Soula Blanc, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes 2002 (Gauby) [GBP 18.00]

This had an extraordinary nose. All around the room aromatic, toasty suggestions were made like fennel, caraway, fresh baked bread. A big favourite with the crowd. I might be tempted to a bottle or two just out of interest but I am not sure it is full VFM

Corbiere, Domaine du Trillol 2001 [GBP 6.25]

Very sweet berry notes and not liked by most - except me

Syrah, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Domaine Cazal Viel 2003 [GBP 7.99]

Conversely this one I did not like as I felt it was lacking fruit but it was much favoured by the others

Domaine de Perdiguier, Vin de Pay des Coteaux d'Ensurune 2000 [GBP 9.95]

Lots of comments like "tarry", "licquorice", "jammy", "cedary"

Cotes du Roussillon Village, Vielles Vignes 2001 (Gauby) [GBP 24.00]

This was the dark one almost at the amarone / port level of intensity. Definitely one for the cheese board

Several memorable quotes from the evening stick in my mind:

"A bargain is something you don't want at a price you can't resist"
"A Dolly Parton of a wine"
and a sensible suggestion
"Drink less, spend more"

After all life *is* too short to drink bad wine.

* See also "Wines from the Veneto" and "New World versus Old"

New World versus Old

A good wine tasting will have a theme to make it interesting and educational - be it 'vertical' (Vega Sicilia from the '80s and '90s), 'horizontal' (the 2004 vintage in Italy), 'varietal' (Rieslings from around the world), 'price' (supermarket reds for under a fiver), 'other' (bring something odd that the others might not have tried).

A popular theme is New World versus Old. Last night's tasting at the Charteris Wine Society went one better: Bordeaux versus South Africa. The wines were supplied by Virgin Wines and ably presented by the society's chairman, Jeremy. He knew his stuff but then so he should, he used to be a wine-buyer for Sainsbury's. The wines were:

Bordeaux

South Africa

Chateau de Roques Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc 2004

Churchaven Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2004

Sichel Rocherolles Rouge 2003

Three Gables Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2004

Chateau Macquin St Georges St Emilion 2002

Radford Dale Merlot 2001/2002

Chateau Maucaillou Cru Bourgeois 1993

Rustenberg John X Merriman 2002

Worst of the night: the Sichel Rocherolles Rouge (slightly musty, little fruit).
Best of the night: Chateau Maucaillou Cru Bourgeois 1993 (good extraction, slightly smokey nose, gentle tannins).

Not entirely surprisingly I preferred the New world and Mary favoured the Old, apart from the last pair when we switched allegiances.

Then we wandered off to Carluccio's Smithfield Caffé for supper. Noisy but good food, I had an excellent liver - to eat that is, I am sure sure about the state of my own after all this wine.

Wines from the Veneto

Thursday evening was an excellent tasting of Veneto wines from Masi and Serego Alighieri thanks to our friend Carolyn and the Charteris Wine Society. The wines were presented by Daniel Block from Masi and supplied by Berkmann.

Daniel was an excellent speaker, knowledgeable and amusing. He talked for an hour and a half, while we tasted, on the history of the region, the producers, the grapes and the unique production techniques of the area involving air drying of the grapes for several months. It is a shame the crowd on the next table talked over his presentation showing what I considered a distinct lack of courtesy to a guest.

Having been on a Headwater walking holiday in the region it was doubly interesting. The wines presented were:

• 2000 Masianco - Masi
• 2003 Possessioni Bianco - Serego Alighieri
• 2003 Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico - Masi
• 2001 Campofiorin Ripasso - Masi
• 2003 Passo Doble - Masi Tupungato
• 2001 Grandarella - Masi
• 2000 Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella - Masi
• 1999 Vaio Armaron Amarone Classico - Serego Alighieri
• 1990 Vaio Armaron Amarone Classico - Serego Alighieri
• 2001 Casal dei Ronchi Recioto Classico - Masi

My favourite was the 1999 Vaio, especially compared to the 1990 which was nearly three times the price and half the flavour. Close behind it was the 2001 Recioto which makes an excellent alternative to a port and goes well with a rustic pecorino cheese or a chocolate mousse.