NOLA '18

New Orleans, Louisiana, USA. Thursday 15 to Saturday 24-March-2018

New Orleans is without a doubt my favourite American city.

When our friends Tim and Sarah came to visit last year Tim revealed over breakfast that he was going to celebrate his 60th birthday with a trip to New Orleans, their first time. The trip was paid for with air miles and an AMEX two-for-one companion voucher.

Unbeknownst to me, Mary had her iPhone out under the table and was checking our air miles balance and reward flight availability. She held out the phone to me and I nodded. "Would you like us to join you?", we enquired. They were delighted. And so it came to pass. We booked into the same hotel where we stayed on our very first visit, Le Richelieu, and the first booker recommended the second so we got a few dollars off.

Fast forward six months...

As we had been to New Orleans three times previously we were able to make suggestions and recommendations, revisiting places that we knew and discovering some new ones.

Thursday 15-March-18.

After the journey and impending jet lag we kept lunch simple at the French Market Cafe, a beer at the Crescent City Brewhouse and a bit of a rest.

That evening we were off to the Palm Court Jazz Cafe for supper and music. We had booked way back and were expecting to see Tim Laughlin but unfortunately he had diary clash that evening and so was not appearing. Still we had a good time and rebooked for his next appearance which was while we were still in NOLA.

Friday 16-March-2018.

We did a wander around the French Quarter to get Tim and Sarah oriented.

Preservation Hall: music venue for trad jazz, possibly overrated.

Madame John’s Legacy: A claimant to being the oldest building in New Orleans.

A riverfront street car.

Local delicacy.

Being Paddy's Day on Saturday there was already a lot of green being worn and two Paddy's Day parades, one on this Friday and another on the Saturday. We watched the parade and acquired some green beads to wear tomorrow.

That evening we were off to Frenchman Street on the edge of the French Quarter for an excellent supper at a new discovery, Marigny Brasserie, and then to DBA's to listen to the Honey Island Swamp Band who play "bayou americana" style.

Saturday 17-March-2018.

We took the streetcar out to the Garden District and picked a self-guided walking tour leaflet from Commander's Palace. We then proceeded to walk our little legs off looking at all the lovely old buildings. Supper at the previously visited EAT New Orleans.

Sunday 18-March-2018.

Lots of street music on the Sunday include a surprise appearance by a visiting band. They mingled in with the crowd and even invited the bride from a hen party to join the band. I couldn't help noticing the cheerful disregard for the "Church Quiet Zone" notice.

We chanced upon the lovely Kingfish cocktail bar during happy hour and so had to stay for two. Then off to NOLA restaurant, one of New Orlean's finest.

Monday 19-March-2018.

A swamp tour in high on the list of things to do in NOLA.

Gator.

Racoon aka Trash Panda.

Cypress trees

Feral pigs

After all that eco tourism it was time for culinary tourism at another of NOLA's finest restaurants, K Paul's Louisiana Kitchen.

Tuesday 20-March-2018.

As I was in training fo the London Marathon I couldn't relax even on holiday. Up early thanks to the time difference and a quick half marathon before breakfast!

My route was out along the Saint Charles streetcar line, a circuit of Audubon Park and back to the hotel. The guy in the tourist office had suggested St Charles Avenue. What I had not realised was that joggers ran along the tracks, facing oncoming trolley cars of course, and would jump sideways when a car passed their way. So I did the same.

Then a relatively quiet day of tourism starting with coffee and beignets at Café Du Monde.

That evening happy hour at Kingfish cocktail bar again then back to Marigny Brasserie for a meal with live music.

Wednesday 21-March-2018.

New Orleans School of Cooking demonstration.

There were tastings but still room for more so we went for a late lunch at Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. - boiled shrimps, not sophisticated dining but filling.

Free blues concert in Lafayette Square.

Free classical concert in St Louis Cathedral.

Supper in Orleans Grapevine wine bar.

Thursday 22-March-2018.

Cycling madness as we hired bikes with no gears and no brakes and went for long cycle along the levee.

We were out for four and a half hours and cycled 32 miles. On the way back we passed through the Garden District for another look at the lovely architecture.

Friday 23-March-2018.

Tim and Sarah went off to visit the World War II museum while we had a quiet day by the hotel pool.

Back to the Palm Court Jazz Cafe to see Tim Laughlin and excellent seats as we had booked reasonably in advance.

Saturday 24-March-2018.

Then off to the airport and home. Boo!

NOLA '09 - Restaurants

Re-reading these before I hit "post" makes it seem that I am focussing on the negatives so I should say that in all cases the food was fine and in some cases superb. Go to New Orleans and dine out - you will not be disappointed.

Thursday 16: Crescent city brewhouse http://www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com/
We have been here many times over our three trips. They brew a range of beers on the premises and do a taster menu of 4 or 5 beers. They have live music and the balcony has a view towards the river.

Friday 17: Montrel's Bistro. [Review on Trip Advisor]
Ate there late and it was basic. Plus no website, maybe I got the name wrong.

Saturday 18: Stella! http://www.restaurantstella.com/
Excellent taster menu in atmospheric surroundings. Pity the bar is next to the kitchen door for the pre-dinner cocktail. And the restaurant was bloody freezing. As it was 28°C all day I did not expect to have to wear my thermal long johns to go out for a meal.

Sunday 19: Feelings cafe (fauberg maurigny) http://www.feelingscafe.com/
We walked 10 blocks there and back which would be a recipe for muggings if you listen to the locals but we survived unscathed. Very interesting building. Only downside was sitting next to a table featuring a loud talking American very full of himself. So bad that as soon as we had finished our meal I moved our wine glasses to the courtyard to un-tense my shoulders.

Monday 20: Dante's kitchen http://www.danteskitchen.com/
It was meant to be a street car ride up Charles Avenue but we just missed one and had to get a cab. Very enjoyable one of our better meals out. But I do not know what they would make of southern Italian eating habits. They were putting chairs on tables at 10 o'clock when our local Locorotondo restaurant would just be filling up.

Tuesday 21: Gumbo shop http://www.gumboshop.com/
Does what it says on the tin. You know what you are getting. Busy, popular, full of tourists, good New Orleans cuisine, nice old building and courtyard. I realised that I had last been there over 20 years ago; I had not been there with Mary on either of our previous visits but with a previous companion way back when.

Wednesday 22: Orleans Grapevine http://www.orleansgrapevine.com/
We started off with a glass of wine on a pavement table and then, as we had no other plans, moved inside. Another icily air-conditioned venue; when quizzed on why the waitress hinted that it was much as for the benefit of the staff because it stopped the customers getting too hot and smelly. We both had the same dish, tuna, one rare, one medium-rare and they got it spot on for both plates - impressive.

Thursday 23: NOLA http://www.emerils.com/
One of New Orleans's (Louisiana's) top restaurants but I would not go back there again. Food was excellent but the room was icy cold, the other customers incredibly noisy all shouting their conversation and the waiters rushed not glided. Go for the buzz but not for a relaxed intimate, hand-holding dinner.

Friday 24: Eat http://www.eatnola.com/
A local BYO only one block from our apartment and in the French Quarter one block only means a couple of hundred yards. Short, simple, fresh menu and much frequented by the locals. We went in to book and "No booking" so I was glad we walked 30 min from the festival rather than queue for the shuttle bus. We rushed back to the apartment, showered and back to the restaurant in double quick time then had a very pleasant meal.

Saturday 25: G W Fins http://www.gwfins.com/
A complete contrast to NOLA. An excellent corner table (all of which were were well spaced out), a friendly maitre d', plenty of staff so they could glide in an unhurried manner. Quality food of course.

Sunday 26: K.Paul's http://www.kpauls.com/
Class act, attentive waiter, good food but I have trouble remembering more than that which maybe says something.

Monday 27: The Alpine Bistro http://www.thealpinebistro.com/
A very late lunch as we were going to the Rock'n'Bowl in the evening for a Snooks Eaglin tribute concert. I think the chef was on his lunch break as well but the food was OK when it eventually arrived.

No wonder I came back from New Orleans weighing an all time personal best(?). Diet starts Monday :-(

NOLA '09 - Jazz and Heritage Festival

New Orleans is a fantastic city and we had a wonderful time at the Jazz Fest - or the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival to give its full title. There was some concern that it might not live up to my rose-tinted memories but in the event it matched or even exceeded them. The weather was a ruler straight 28°C and sunshine the entire time, the music was great, the food was delicious and the people were friendly.

So many times as soon as I opened my English mouth the person next to me would say "You're not from here. Where are you from?". "London, England" I would reply. "Welcome" was the invariable response often followed up by a friendly conversation.


Mardi Gras Indians at The Jazz Fest

We saw many great acts. The Jazz Fest is held at the race track. Once inside you can wander all day from stage to stage with a huge array of food (and drink) stalls for grazing on some of the best cajun and creole food. Just a fantastic time.


Crowd Scene at the Acura Stage

We bought a couple of folding picnic chairs, as did many, many others, and would carry them until a particular stage caught our eye where we would set our pitch and watch several acts, with occasional forays elsewhere - there were just so many acts to see.

The whole atmosphere is so relaxed it was a joy to be there. NOLA is my favourite American city by a long way.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8179454@N02/sets/72157618006007772/detail/

NOLA '09 - Hurricane Katrina

Between the FQF and the Jazz Fest we moved from Le Richelieu to an apartment, also in the French Quarter, and had a few days to relax.


Our Apartment in the French Quarter
http://www.historicrentals.com/

This, of course, does not involve sitting with a glass of wine and reading a book. Instead it went like this:

• Monday: did a Katrina tour with Tours by Isabella http://www.toursbyisabelle.com/ to visit the devastated areas
• Tuesday: hired bikes and cycled for 4 hours along the levee
• Wednesday: cycled up to Lake Pontratrain and back and forth along its shore - another 4 hours. Then Wednesday at the Square - another free concert in the Central business district http://www.wednesdayatthesquare.com/index.html
• Thursday: helping out at the Community centre St Bernard Parish http://www.ccstb.org/ hearing more first-hand tales of trauma and survival and rebuilding

M & M relax outside the Orleans Grapevine
http://www.orleansgrapevine.com/

We were a bit in two minds about the Katrina tour, a bit ghoulish perhaps, but were glad we did. Our guide Jenny is a native of NOLA and tour guide for many years, She gave us a first hand account of the devastation, the incompetence of FEMA, the venality of the insurance companies and the traumas of living through it all. And people are still living through it. It will take decades to repair the damage and some things will never be fixed.

Books have been written so I will focus on my main impressions:

Much of the devastation was man-made: design flaws in the levees (built on sand) and the Mississippi River-Gulf Outlet Canal (aka "Mr GO") which caused erosion of protective wetlands and increased storm surge. The Corps of Engineers are not popular with many of the people of New Orleans. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mississippi_River_Gulf_Outlet

Many people died because they would not leave their pets behind. The authorities refused to take animals. Many pets became homeless, ownerless and in need of rescue. Jenny was actively involved in Animal Rescue New Orleans which has rescued and re-homed thousands of animals. Emergency plans now include contingency plans for evacuation of companion animals. http://www.animalrescueneworleans.org/

The inaccuracies and bias in the media. The exaggeration of the situation in the Superdome, the focus on the Lower Ninth Ward when other blue collar areas were more devastated. And white collar, professional areas were hit too. It doesn't matter if you had a well paid job and a nice home it is still devastating to lose everything, and I do mean everything. To be left with nothing but the clothes you stand up in.

We still had opportunity to continue the corporate mission of "Eat, Drink and Have a Good Time" with many fine restaurants and coffee at the Cafe du Monde. One of my favourite tweets was that Beignets are not iPhone-friendly. All that icing sugar makes the touch screen very tacky.


Coffee and Beignets at Cafe du Monde
http://cafedumonde.com/

Full set of photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8179454@N02/sets/72157617916909257/detail/

NOLA '09 - French Quarter Festival

This year was our third visit to New Orleans for the French Quarter Festival (http://www.fqfi.org/) and the first weekend of the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival (http://www.nojazzfest.com/). The Jazz Fest has fixed dates and the FQF moves about. Every now and then they are contiguous and we go visit. This happened in 1998, 2001 and now 2009.


Dancing to Tom McDermott and the Jazz Hellions on Royal Street

The FQF is a much smaller, more intimate festival attracting a local crowd. It is held on the streets of the FQ and along the waterfront. And it is free! It is paid for by sponsors and the proceeds from the food and drink stalls. So to help keep it free all we have to to is drink Abita beer and eat gumbo and crawfish :-)


Lunch at the Old Mint - Crawfish and Stuffed Artichoke

For more photos see http://www.flickr.com/photos/8179454@N02/sets/72157617976619024/detail/