Think of the Money We Saved

Last year we (Mary really) invested in a case of the 2001 Chateau d'Yquem from Berry Bros & Rudd. BBR wrote to us recently saying that Robert Parker has now awarded it his top mark of 100/100. That guarantees it will fly off the shelves and our investment will hold its value. BBR's write-up:

2001 Yquem is one of the best wines this exalted estate has ever made and has been awarded the 'perfect' score by ourselves and Robert Parker alike. This is breathtakingly complex, with a vibrant perfume of crème brûlée, white peaches, apricots, mustard seed and gorgeous light new oak which heralds the most magnificent mouthfilling essence. With the texture of melted butter, it feels more fresh, zingy and exciting than any wine you can imagine. If the nose and the palate aren't enough to blow you away, the 30 minute (at least) after-taste is ethereal. This is already approachable, but if you don't get round to opening the bottle this year you could cellar it until 2100!

BBR Score: 20/20
Parker Score: 100/100

BBR are offering a 20% discount if you buy 24 half bottles at a saving of GBP 1286.16. Yes, you did read that correctly a *saving* of USD 2,600. So that's only GBP 260 per half bottle or 4,200 for a case of 24 halves (In Bond, you will still to pay Duty and VAT at some later date).

I am glad to say we did not pay that much but it never was going to be a cheap wine.

The Chateau Climens Dinner

Another BBR extravagant wine dinner. Hosted by Oliver East, Bordeaux Buyer, Guest Speaker Bérénice Lurton, Owner.

Before we arrived we were thinking, like others, "Are they really going to serve a dessert wine with every course?" The answer was "Yes" and "Don't call it a dessert wine", says Bérénice, "it is a sweet wine".

Berrys' UKC Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Le Mesnil

 

2004 Cypres de Ch. Climens, Barsac

Lobster bisque - with lobster beignets & chervil oil

2004 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac

Ballotine of foie gras with Sauternes caviar jelly & crisp bread

2000 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac
1996 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac

Gallotine of quail in pistachio & truffle mousse & sauce Marsala

1990 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac

Roquefort

1977 Ch. Climens, 1 er Grand Cm Classe, Barsac

Vanilla mille feuille with caramelised pear

Berrvs' selected coffee and chocolates

 

The 2004 Cypres, their second wine, was warm, light and fruity with a hint of mushroom on the nose. An interesting contrast to the Climens '04 which was darker and heavier and sharper showing the acid that would help it age.

The 2000 was fresh and light and very enjoyable. Not so the '96 which was distinctly musty on the nose with hint of white spirit and not as sharp as the '00. Others thought so too and they changed the bottle and brought us fresh glasses. The '90 was excellent with a "brisk" flavour and a lovely golden colour.

The '77 again had a hint of mustiness, not so much "noble rot" as plain rot, a disappointing final wine. I don't think this dinner showed the Chateau to best advantage.

Some years back we bought a half case of the 1990 and are down to our last bottle with nary a duff bottle so this will not put us off the chateau - just be more careful in our choice of vintage.

BBR Dinner: The Great Wines of Italy, Tuscany vs Piedmont

More eating and drinking...

Lots of top notch wines. I wish I could remember more of the fascinating info from the chat by Chris Pollington, the man knows his stuff.

All I can remember is the Tuscans use the Sangiovese grape and eat beans, the Piedmontese use Nebbiolo and eat rice. The staff would keep topping up my glass and I did not say no often enough. I was struggling to keep my eyes open by the end. Oh dear :-(

Aperitivo

2006 Gavi di Gavi, Cru La Maddelena, Roberto Sarotto, Piedmont

Bresaola con Rucola e Parmigiano
(Shaved bresaola with wild rocket & parmesan)

2005 Chianti Classico, 'Rubiolo', Gagliole, Castellina-in-Chianti, Tuscany

Un' selezione di funghi di bosco
(A tasting of Italian mushrooms & funghi)

2001 Barbaresco, Cru Vigna Erte, Cigliuti, Neive, Piedmont

Abbachio a la Romana con polenta e pomodorini secchi
(Roast lamb with rosemary, polenta & cotifit tomatoes)

1994 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Ugolaia, Lisini, Tuscany
2000 Barolo, Cru Monprivato, Giuseppe Mascarello, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont

Formaggio
(cheese) Pecorino

2004 IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale, Pecchia, Gagliole, Castellina-in-Chianti, Tuscany

Torta di mele con gelato di Mascarpone
(Apple tarte fine with Mascarpone ice cream)

2005 Moscato d'Asti, Bass Tuba, Bava, Piedmont

Berrys' selected coffee & chocolate

The First Growths Tutored Tasting

Monday night was an extravagant tasting at BBR: eight first growth clarets.

To quote the BBR website, "Technically the term 'First Growth' should only be applied to the properties identified as such in the famous 1855 Classification of the Médoc, namely Châteaux Lafite, Latour, Margaux and Haut-Brion, subsequently joined in 1973 by Ch. Mouton-Rothschild. However, as the title is synonymous with the apogee of excellence in Bordeaux, we will use the term more informally here to include the other truly great names of Bordeaux - Châteaux Cheval Blanc, Ausone and Pétrus - which are felt to be unequivocally of First Growth quality.

Mark Pardoe MW will discuss each property in turn, explaining and unravelling the nuances that distinguish each of the First Growths from one another, while illuminating the intrinsic seam of quality that runs through all these eight great wines. The wines will all be from 2002, thereby filleting the distractions of vintage variation and also allowing some contemplation of this fine and classic year which deserves greater credit and admiration.

After a delicious aperitif of vintage Champagne, you will be guided through the following wines, served alongside a selection of cheese and canapés:"

These were the wines and my notes on the 'nose' (wine speak for 'smell'):

Wine 1: 2002 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St Emilion - soft cherry, bonfire.
Wine 2: 2002 Ch. Ausone, St Emilion - purple, blackcurrent, woody root / leaf.
Wine 3: 2002 Ch. Pétrus, Pomerol - clean, redcurrant, chocolate, vanilla.
Wine 4: 2002 Ch. Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan - cooler/warmer?, murky.
Wine 5: 2002 Ch. Margaux, Margaux - tall green (grassy) fruit, warm.
Wine 6: 2002 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac - redcurrant, sweet.
Wine 7: 2002 Ch. Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac - mushroom, cheese, soap.
Wine 8: 2002 Ch. Latour, Pauillac - clean deep fruit, cajun spices, coffee, deep.

My fave was the Latour (concentrated, stunning, "gobs of fruit") followed by the Cheval Blanc with the Margaux and Mouton-Rothschild in 3rd and 4th place. My least favourite was the Haut-Brion (muddied, not clean). As Bron observed I am in alignment with Mr Parker's ratings as regards best and worst in this group though I can safely say my palette is not up to Parker's standard.

The Petrus was the most complex on the nose but at GBP 750 a bottle (that is correct, not a typo, USD 1,490) I will not be rushing out to buy a bottle let alone a full case. A most educational tasting to confirm that we were well beyond my "VFM" point of diminishing returns.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Fine Wine Tutored Tasting

I started out on burgundy...

Last Thursday it was a walk-around tasting of burgundy in The Winery at Liberty. Can't be bothered to type up the full list of 14 wines, just my two favourites:

White: Monthélie Blanc 2002, Dubuet - grapefruit and tropical notes on the nose. (GBP 21.99)
Red: Gevrey-Chambertin "Aux Corvées" 2002, Richard - hints of chocolate on the nose and yummy palette heading towards the strawberry end of the soft fruit spectrum. (GBP 25.99)

Available from http://www.thewineryuk.com/

... but soon hit the harder stuff. *

Last night it was a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Fine Wine Tutored Tasting at BBR tutored by Simon Field MW, Rhone Buyer. Mary decided to drop out and have a quiet evening in. Instead I co-opted colleague and old friend Bron as last minute stand-in.

Wine 1: 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Ch la Nerthe
Wine 2: 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Domaine des Saumades
Wine 3: 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine des Sénéchaux
Wine 4: 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mourre des Perdix, Domaine de la Charbonnière
Wine 5: 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Réserve, Domaine de Pegau
Wine 6: 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée de Mon Aïeul, Pierre Usseglio
Wine 7: 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Prestige, Domaine Roger Sabon
Wine 8: 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Clos des Papes (en magnum)
Wine 9: 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Barbe Rac, Chapoutier (en magnum)
Wine 10: 1999 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Vieux Télégraphe
Wine 11: 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Ch de Rayas
Wine 12: 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Ch de Beaucastel

Bron says: "The whites were idiosyncratic, strong flavoured and not for wimps. The reds were uniformly good and showed the variety within the region. The '98s and '00s are for drinking now and over the next few years. The '99s and '03s definitely need cellaring a few more years."

Afterwards we dined at the Criterion which apparently had a brief, unsuccessful period as a "Frankies" but is now back to its Marco Pierre White style brasserie. We went straight into the main course and split a half bottle - after all we didn't really need much more to drink! My Lamb cutlets were absolutely delicious as were the veg, especially the little roast potatoes. Service was fine. I can recommend and it is easy to find - on Piccadilly Circus right opposite the statue of Eros.

* Tom Thumb Blues by Bob Dylan

BBR Champagne School

Hosted by Simon Field MW, Buyer and Rebecca Lamont, Wine School Manager. Always interesting to do a tutored tasting which is basically what this was but with the added benefit of slide show and a good double act from Simon and Rebecca followed by lunch.

Aperitif
 • Gaston Chiquet, Brut Tradition
Grapes of Champagne / Growers
 • Andre Jacquart, Carte Blanche NV
 • Champagne Marguet, Brut Rosé
Grande Marques
 • Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut
 • Pol Roger, Brut Réserve NV
 • Veuve Clicquot, Brut
 • Bollinger, Special Cuvée Brut
 • Krug, Grande Cuvé eBrut
Vintage Style
 • 1998 Berry's United Kingdom Cuvée, Mailly
 • 1996 Gosset, Gande Millésime
Duluxe Cuvée
 • 1998 Berrys' United Kingdom Cuvée, Mailly
 • 1996 Gosset, Grand Millésime
Duluxe Cuvée
 • 1995 Pol Roger, Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill (en magnum)
 • 1998 Moët et Chandon, Dom Perignon

Lunch
Tartare of Salmon
 • 1996 Jacquesson, Avize
 • 1995 Tattinger, Comtes de Champagne
Halibut with Avruga Caviar and Lemon Beurre Blanc
 • 1999 Bollinger, Grand Année, Rose
 • 1995 Bollinger R.D.
Chocolate and Ginger Mousse Cake
 • Louis Roederer 'Rich'
Coffee and chocolate

In the grande marques Mary and I preferred diamterically opposite champagnes which I guess means we'll have to open two bottles every time. Mary, not surprisingly given her 'savory' palette, liked the Laurent Perrier with zero dosage and me with my 'sweet tooth' liked the Pol Roger.

Elsewhere, I was most impressed by BBR's own label vintage with notes of creme brulée and apple crumble. Mary's favourite was the 1995 Pol Roger, Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. The Krug made a very poor showing, I got 'soapy, Mary got 'fireworks', I suspect a hint of sulphur. All in all a very educational day.

The Italian Grand Tour Dinner

Friday, October 06, 2006

Another BBR extravaganza down in the sub-basement of the Napoleon cellars, so named because one of the founders, Mr Rudd, was mates with the Emperor who used to frequent the establishment.

Hosted by Chris Pollington

Aperitif

2004 Gris Pinot Grigio, Lis Neris, Fruili

Swordfish carpaccio

2005 Gavi di Gavi, Cru La Maddelana, Roberto Saroot, Piedmont

Risotto with porcini and parmesan shavings

2000 Barbaresco, Cru Serrabolla, Cigliuti, Piedmont

Wild boar stufato with roast plums and creamed mash

1999 Barolo, Cru Monprivato, Castiglioni Falletto, Guiseppi Mascarello, Piedmont
1999 Brunello di Montalcino, Lisini, Tuscany

Parmesan and aged pecorino with figs and mostarda

2000 Mithas, Amarone della Valpolicella, Corte Sant'Alda, Veneto

Zabaglione with spiced winter fruit compote and vanilla shortbread

2004 Moscato d'Asti, Bava, Piedmont

Berry's selected coffee and chocolate

and a taxi home...

The Gavi di Gavi was good so we have ordered a case :-)

Bourdeaux 2005 En Primeur

On Tuesday evening we went to a BBR En Primeur tasting and tried 49 out of the 74 wines on show. Mostly the wines were presented in pairs, the 2005 en primeur and a recent vintage (pretty evenly spread over the 2001 through to 2004 vintages).

Interesting to compare the wine in its "raw" state with an officially released bottle. Trying to image how the 2005 will evolve is beyond my palette even with the recent vintage to contrast with. So I took it more in the educational sense of tasting wines I would never otherwise buy nor get to taste including a number of classed growths.

We got chatting to Max the saleman account manager who keeps sending Mary wicked, tempting emails of wines to buy. And so often she succumbs but, it has to be said, to my benefit as well. "Who *are* all these people?" I wanted to know. Many of them looked like old money, city types: merchant bankers, brokers, barristers, and such like in the uniform of pinstripe suit. Plus a few who looked like landed gentry. And a few normals like us.

He did reveal that those present were all invited, account holders only. Some like us spend a few thousand pounds a year, some spend up to 15 million! Too late for a career switch methinks?

The Zind-Humbrecht Dinner

Special Guest Olivier Humbrecht MW. Hosted by David Berry Green, Buyer. Friday 18 November 2005. Another BBR dining extravaganza:

2002 Muscat. Herrenweg

aperitif

2001 Riesling, Clos Windsbuhl

Baked rainbow trout with toasted almonds

2002 Riesling, Brand

Crispy sea bass with a lime, lemongrass and coconut sauce

2001 Tokay Pinot Gris, Rangen de Thann

Pork with caramelised honey and citrus sauce with crushed new potatoes and seasonal vegetables

19883 Gewurztraminer, Rangen de Than, Vendage Tardive

Selection of cheese and fresh fruit

1986 Tokay Pinot Gris, Rotenberg, Selection des Grains Nobles

Pear and frangipane tart with hazelnut praline

Marc

Berrys' selected coffee and mints

I have always had a soft spot for Zind-Humbrecht ever since I discovered their Gewurztraminer, Herrenweg Turkheim some twenty years ago. It is every thing that one could hope for in a dessert wine, complex flavours (a veritable fruit bowl of exotic fruits), unctuousness, sweetness without being cloying thanks to a hint of noble rot. I love it and I was looking forward to this dinner.

One of the pleasures of these dinners is that you get to hear from the winemakers themselves. For a twelfth generation wine producer Olivier had a refreshing amount of enthusiasm for his subject. As well as the wines themselves he did an excellent job of covering the history of the region, the domaine itself and biodynamics. The latter has a more than a hint of hew age hippydom about it but results in some very sensible, sustainable, organic farming practices. As, Olivier said "the proof is in the glass".

Apart from the marc which was, like 99.99 percent of the grappa breed, rocket fuel.

The Fine Wines of The Montrachet

Another OTT evening at BBR. This time "Exploring Great Burgundy - The Fine Wines of The Montrachet" tutored by Jasper Morris MW, Buying Director.

 • Wine 1: 2000 Chassagne-Montrachet, 'Les Chaumées', 1er Cru, Domaine Michel Niellon
 • Wine 2: 2000 Puligny-Montrachet, 'Les Pucelles', 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive
 • Wine 3: 2000 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Belland
 • Wine 4: 1999 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Etienne Sauzet
 • Wine 5: 1988 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive
 • Wine 6: 1999 Chevalier-Montrachet, 'Les Demoiselles', Grand Cru, Louis Latour
 • Wine 7: 1996 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive
 • Wine 8: 1999 Le Montrachet, Grand Cru, Marquis de Laguiche, Joseph Drouhin

What can I say. I could say they were superb, elegant, etc. but I would be bull-bluffing. Very drinkable but way beyond my capacity to appreciate the subtleties. At prices ranging from GBP 52 to GBP 357 per bottle(!) I will not be rushing out to buy a case or two. In fact most of the wines were limited availability (from 35 bottles to 1 last remaining bottle) so I couldn't even if I had the money *and* the inclination.

The Great Chefs' Dinner with Mark Hix

Another extravagant meal at BBR on Friday evening. They are running a series of designer chef evenings. Mark Hix runs The Ivy, Le Caprice and J. Sheekey.

Wild Duck and Elderberry salad

2000 Chablis Valmur, Grande Cru, Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin

Rock Eel 'Forrestiere'

2003 Dolcetta d'Alba, Luciano Sandrone

Braeburn Apple and Blackberry Jelly

2003 Coteaux du Lauon "St Auban", Domaine des Forges

Stinking Bishop with Oat Cakes and Onion Chutney

"Tonel 12" 10yr old Tawny Port, Quinta de la Rosa

Berrys' selected coffee and mints

Odd and brave to pair white wine with duck and red with fish. Mary thought they went well, I was less convinced. OTOH the Coteaux du Layon went superbly with the apple jelly.

The food was good but not brilliant and definitely NOT Value For Money. Having eaten Mark Hix's food and read the restaurant reviews (always a slightly biased source) I will not be rushing to book a place at the Ivy or Caprice although Sheekey might be worth a go.

The Heart of Italy Dinner

Last week was a bit of a wine week what with Valentine's Night where we spent more on wine than food as usual, seeing the recommendable film Sideways and then on Saturday another Berry Bros and Rudd dinner - Heart of Italy - with Pete&Amanda. Held at BBR's premises in St James Street the menu was as follows:

2002 Verdicchio Classico Superiore Castelli di Jesi, Vegneti di Musone - Marche

Welcome from Chris Maybin, Marketing Manager

2000 Chianti Classico, Villa di Geggiano - Tuscany

Mixed antipasti

2001 Mirum, Verdicchio Marche Bianco, Fattoria la Monacesca - Marche

Seafood Penne in a Saffron Broth

1999 Vino Nobile do Montepulciano Riserva dei Mandorli, Massimo Romeo - Tuscany
1997 Brunello do Montalcino, Riserva Casisano Colombaio - Tuscany

Arista (Roasted Loin of Pork with Rosemary and Garlic), Canenellini Beans (selection of fresh seasonal vegetables)

2001 Visions of J. Fattoria le Terrazze - Marche

Selection of classic pecorino cheeses with mostarda

Tiramisu

Berrys' selected coffee and dinner mints

Another fine evening. For me the star of the evening was the 2001 Mirum, Verdicchio and so Mary ordered a case - good move!