Hungarian Wine Tasting

Bortodoor City Wine Bar, Budapest, Hungary. Tuesday 14-July-2026.

A new country and a new set of grape varieties to learn about. So of course we had to book ourselves a wine tasting. We know nothing about Hungarian grapes and this delivered exactly what we wanted: a history of Hungarian wines, and introduction to the local grape varieties and tastings for sparkling, through white, rosè and reds. I even got a bonus sip of Tokai. Our host went by the nickname “Smike”, an American who has lived in Budapest for 17 years and is very knowledgeable and enthusiastic.

1. Beres Holdezust Habzobor Brut.

A glass of sparkling to welcome us and the first of the tasting to sip whilst we got the background to the Hungarian wine industry.

Geology: The north of the country is volcanic soils in the Carpathian mountains created by upheaval 13-15 million years ago. The south of the country has soils more Burgundian in character.

History: vineyards have been here for millennia. There was some disruption caused by the two world wars but the biggest impact was the Soviet Occupation. The authorities demanded that all vineyards across the country were to be over-planted with one of several new workhorse varietal strains developed for quantity and robustness. Two areas exempt were Tokaj and Nagy-Somlo. It was only after the end of the occupation that vignerons were able to replant local varieties better suited to their individual areas. Now those vines of an age that they are reaching their full potential.yeah, I think so

The tasting was accompanied by small platter of nibbles.  

Vinified in stainless steel. It was very pleasant and a fair match for any other nations sparking wine.

2. Harasztry Sir Irsal white 2025.

Made from a vine cross developed in the 1930s it traditionally smells of elderflowers. It is very popular with the Hungarians predominantly drunk as a spritz.

A bit too tart for my liking but I can see that it might work as a long drink.

3. Hercegkut Furmint Dry 2024 Tokaji.

A dry white from an area more famous for its dessert wines. This was described as having minerality and good aging potential. Vinified in stainless steel then aged in French oak barrels.

We got more tips on bluffing in wine: not just what fruit you are getting but what ripeness. So if it is apples are they tart / unripe / warm / baked; if cherry is it sweet dessert or tart morello.

4. Dubicz, Sarhegy Oalszrizling 2023.

Not a reisling despite the name. From the Matra region. I got kiwi and pea pod on the nose. Very pleasant.

5. Sauska Siller Villany 2025.

A peculiarity of Hungarian wine production known as “bleed the must”. After two days of skin contact half the must is removed to make a dark rosé known as Siller. The remaining 50% must is left on on the skins to produce a hyper-red wine. Interesting. I prefer a darker rosé so this was lovely. Maybe it was autosuggestion based on the colour but this had distinct strawberry notes on the palate. The presenter opined that it had some malolactic fermentation to add to the flavour.

6. Vesztergombi Kardaka Szekszard.

A pinot noir like grape grown as bush vines from the Kunsag region whose sandy soils enabled it to escape the ravages of phylloxera. Is is a cooler area where they need to used smudge pots - braziers that help keep the frosts at bay.

7. Kekfrankos Tuzko Birtok 2022

The kekfrankos grapes contributes the biggest percentage found in Bulls Blood. Smoky blueberry nose with tertiary notes of tabacco and cedar. When the assembled company were asked what food they’d pair it with Mary proposed cassoulet and I suggested smoked duck with cherry sauce. Turns out that our host always paired it with duck. Result!

8. Koch Villany Cabernet Franc Vedett Eredetu Villany Classicus 2020.

Oaked with dark fruit flavours. It had a “Top 12” sticker on it which signifies that in a nationwide blind tasting it was adjudged one of the the top twelve Hungarian wines.

9. Tokaj. 

I had been discussing dessert wines so Smike gave me a small tasting of a Tokaj. It was delicious and far better than I remember from my previous tastings of Tokaj.

A great tasting with lots banter. Then a short stroll to our restaurant for supper.