Monday, August 19, 2024

Kendal Calling 2024

Lowther Deer Park, Cumbria. Friday/Sunday 02/04-August-2024.

Despite the name “Kendal Calling” it is not held at Kendal. Apparently it was for the first few years but then grew too big for the space and so relocated to the Lowther estate near Penrith.

I was expecting something similar to Cropredy or Solfest. It was, indeed, similar to those in many respects: lots of people in a field with several stages and food and drink stalls but this is on a massive scale by comparison. 

The capacity is 40,000 people which temporarily makes it the third largest town in Cumbria (Carlisle 108,274; Barrow-in-Furness 55,251 [Demographics of Cumbria]). It was so extensive and crowded that it was much harder to meander between stages and catch bits of multiple acts, it was like several separate festivals all spliced together.

A couple of people had commented that it was very much for the young folk, but I did see a number of oldies and people with young children. The latter presumably have been coming to the festival for years, have since produced children but continue coming to the festival. We saw a large number of trolleys used for transporting tents and children to and fro.

Friday 02. Four of us went together, us and the Wrights. Unfortunately I had an urgent dental appointment that afternoon so the three of them decided to walk there (about 6 miles) and I joined them later with the car. 

After the walk, Mary was happy to sit down in one place, opposite the main stage, for most of the day and just wander around to explore during the breaks between acts. We caught a couple of tunes by Dead Letter and enjoyed The Snuts, CMAT, Keane and Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds. 

CMAT (Ciara Mary-Alice Thompson) was amazing. Great voice, really high energy, amazing stage presence and really knew how to work the crowd. One to watch out for.

The Snuts are a Scottish indie rock band who put on an enjoyable show.

The crowd loved Keane and even though I only recognised the hit single “Somewhere Only We Know” I still enjoyed it. Meanwhile the people around me were singing along with every track, they knew all the words.

The same was true with Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds. Not a band we listen to but the audience knew every word of every song. My criteria for assessing a band whose music I am not familiar with is how different each song sounds from the last. Are they writing new melodies and playing different tempi, different instrumentation. That is a good indicator of their skill and artistry. Noel's set fitted that bill.

At Solfest three years ago we spent ages wandering about in the dark trying to find our car. Aiming to learn from our mistake, I dropped a What3Words pin as I parked the car with the plan of using that to navigate our way back to it in the dark at the end.

Fine in theory - we tried to use the What3Words pin and Google Maps to navigate our way back to the car. Unfortunately, Google only knows about tarmac roads and not gravel tracks. So we missed our turn and went in a big loop, stumbling around in the dark, until we finally tracked down the car. It took us a good hour of walking including the last bit through wet grass and nettles. No fun when you are tired and just want to get back to your own bed.

Lessons learned: In addition to w3w make a visual note of tracks and waypoints by looking backwards at junctions, turns and recognisable landmarks. That worked well the next night.

Saturday 03. We were less static than Friday, visiting other stages to hear different bands. 


This was our viewing order for the day. 

  • Melanie Baker 
  • Delagrave 
  • Beatles Dub Club 
  • Heather Small (ex M People)
  • Tors 
  • Molotov Jukebox
  • Kate Nash
  • Sugababes. I stayed to watch them while Mary went off to see the Lightning Seeds

We have seen local band Delagrave several times and it’s nice to see them appearing here which has got to be good for raising their profile.

Beatles Dub Club worked their way through large amounts of Beatles back catalogue with a high energy performance. Very nostalgic and good fun.

Heather Small was full of energy, bouncing about the stage on high heels and in excellent voice. One of our party was amazed at her energy when they realised that she was 59 years old and four years older than him!

Kate Nash was good, a somewhat autobiographical singer-songwriter with an upbeat pop sound - a bit like Lily Allen.

The Sugababes were in fine voice and also did a lot of dancing around the stage. Now I did know their greatest hits.

We decided not to stay to the very end and left before The Streets who we’d never heard of. We met up after Sugababes / Lightening Seeds and were led through the fantastic Woodlands area by the Wrights. 

This tree root display was clearly inspired by Avatar's Tree of Souls.

We managed to successfully navigate our way back to the car and were back in Penrith in time for an entirely unnecessary beer in Fell Penrith - much tastier than most of the beers on offer at the festival. 

Sunday 04. We bagged a decent spot at the main stage and stayed there for most of the day. Great bunch of artists, mostly unfamiliar to us so lots to add to our playlists. We only missed a couple whilst away getting beer and / or food. 

We enjoyed Red Rum Club, Royal Otis and Pale Waves then went for a wander and came across a very lively and enjoyable set by Youth Sector in the Woodlands. Then back to the main stage for The Reytons who were very loud so sounded great at the back while we ate. 

We learned very late on the there was a fancy dress theme and it was The Sea. That morning I passed the local toy shop which surprisingly was open on a Sunday. I popped in and bought a small plastic shark which I stapled to my baseball cap and I got several compliments. Mary found a suitably stripy sailor t-shirt at home and bought a cap from the Hospices at Home charity ladies to complete the ensemble.

Pale Waves played a fine set with a lead female singer, Heather Baron-Gracie. Wikipedia tells me they are "often described as 80s-inspired indie rock or synth-pop; their second and third albums, however, owe more to the pop-punk genre".

The Reytons were an indie rock band but I found it disconcerting that every single sentence the front man uttered included the word “f*****g”. Call me old fashioned but I found it unnecessary.

By now we were bored of the beers on offer so bought some wine!

Although he was a headine act Paolo Nutini was almost unknown to us. I didn't recognise any of the songs which must have included some hits single. Still he passed the "every song distinct" test and we very much enjoyed his set.

There was a spectacular firework display at the end. Kudos to Sarah who took these photos  

Back to the car and a slow crawl off the festival site as the bulk of the festival goers all left at once.

Mary learned a second lesson: Consider your footwear very carefully. Do NOT under any circumstances make a very last minute decision to change to some wellies that you have not worn for at least 20 years! She ended up with blisters on her toes.

After the festival, our homework is to listen again to all the bands that made an impression and expand our listening horizon.

Sunday, August 18, 2024

Grand Tour 2024 - Carcassonne

Carcassonne, France. Monday/Wednesday 22/31-July-2024.

Table of Contents:

Monday 22: Fifth leg of this year's interrailing adventure. A long day - eight hours on the train. We took the TGV from Mulhouse to Marseilles (5 hours) then the Bordeaux train as far as Carcassonne. We decided not to rely on there being a buffet car and made ourselves a very nice picnic to have on board.

Our home exchange host very kindly met us at the station and conveyed our luggage to the apartment while we walked (she had a small car and couldn’t fit luggage and us both). 

That evening we went for a delicious Japanese meal at Miyagi. It is ages since we were able to dine Japanese so it was a treat to have a bowl of Ramen. They also had Komasa, a Japanese gin that was new to me so I just had to give that a try and it was delicious.

Tuesday 23: We were near the river, close to both the the Cité (old town) and Bastide (new town) so well placed for exploring in either direction. When I say "new" we are talking AD 1160 as opposed to the Roman origins of the old citadel. The first day is always a day to relax and we went for a stroll to explore the Cité up on the hill and had lunch in the tree shaded courtyard of Les Terrasses de la Cite. The route took us over this iconic footbridge.

Then it was back to the apartment for our usual siesta.

Carcassonne has a music festival for the whole of July and, as well as major events in the Cité amphitheatre, there were a number of free events at stages around the new town. After a tasty supper at La Table de Marie recommended by our host we went down to the riverside to watch Natasha St-Pier and her band do a very entertaining set - very Pop/Rock. 

Wednesday 24: A day to explore the new town. Mary's hair has been getting a little longer than she liked and she spotted a classy hairdressers that was able to squeeze her in for a trim. Then it was time for lunch at La Petite Café, siesta and then a wander back into town for supper at Le Passage.

Thursday 25: An old friend, Jane, who I have known since primary school has a holiday home about 45 minutes east of Carcassonne. As luck would have it she and her husband, Brock, were there at the time of our visit so they came over and took us on a drive around the area including a visit to the Abbey at Caunes-Minervois dating from the eighth century and noted for its outstanding red marble. If it weren’t for luggage restrictions, Mary would have come away with a beautiful red marble rolling pin!

We then went for supper at Relais Chantovent with an amazing view of the gorge of the River Cesse where Jane and Brock are clearly regulars known to the staff. After an excellent meal, Brock was a hero and drove us back to the apartment while we snoozed in the backseat. 

Friday 26: Parkrun is currently suspended in France. It never came back after Covid because of a requirement to have a medical certificate to participate in any competitive events. While that might make sense for races or events like Marathons it is nonsensical for parkrun and contrary to their ethos to be all inclusive. Parkrun HQ are in negotiations with the French authorities to get this requirement lifted. 

Originally it looked like we might have to miss a parkrun but Mary spotted that Ryanair fly from Carcassonne to Stansted and that we could fit in a cheeky mid-Carcassonne trip back to the UK on the Friday, stay with our friend Andrea in Witham, fit in a parkrun on the Saturday and fly back on the Sunday. All at reasonable times and at a reasonable price. So that is what we did.

We flew into Stansted, picked up a hire car and drove over to spend the evening with Andrea. 

Saturday 27: In the morning we drove over Great Notley near Braintree and got our weekly fix of parkrun. 

Then off to the Queen's Head in Maldon for a pub lunch with Andrea followed by a round of crazy golf. That evening we met up with a couple of other friends and went out for an excellent Turkish meal at Astare restaurant in Witham.

Sunday 28: Sunday morning we returned the hire car and had lunch at the airport. We flew back to Carcassonne where we were met by the shuttle bus into town. There are so few flights in and out of Carcassonne that the bus timetable is geared round the flight times! Evening meal was at Cafe de la Comedie where I had the classic regional specialty cassoulet

Monday 29: The main reason for leaving Cisternino in July and August was to escape the Puglian heat however the heat seemed to follow us around Europe. Carcassonne was predicted to be 38 / 39 °C for our last few days. We do like a river cruise - or in this case canal du Midi cruise. It was a scorching hot day so we thought sitting under the awning with a bit of a breeze would be a good way to pass the mid-afternoon, peak temperature hours.

I did a canal holiday along this stretch many years ago, but so long ago that cruise didn't ring any bells. 

The excitement on a canal holiday is going through the locks. The Canal du Midi is a formidable piece of early canal engineering connecting the mediterranean to the Atlantic requiring a fair number of locks to get up over the watershed.

That evening, we dined at Le Bistro D’Alice for another classic French meal. 

Tuesday 30: Sting 

Partly we came to Carcassonne because we had heard that it was a gorgeous medieval town and partly was to see Sting in concert. We went up to the Cité early to complete the full tourist checklist: we went round the castle and ramparts plus a circuit of the inner wall.

We decided to have a proper restaurant lunch in town followed by an evening snack up in the old city. Another recommendation from our host: we walked half an hour out of town in the blazing heat to Le Jardin De L’Estagnol where they did a “menu complet” for a mere €20. We dined al fresco in a lovely shaded courtyard. We both ordered gazpacho, tuna, and a pineapple dessert, together with a rosé wine that was so pale it looked like a white. The whole meal was delicious and amazing value.

We ordered a taxi back into town as it was too hot to walk. When the taxi company reported back that they were significantly delayed the Madame very kindly gave us a lift into town in her own car. 

After a short rest it was time to walk back up the Cité to join the queue for the concert. It was unreserved seats so it was worth getting there early and eat a baguette whilst standing in the queue. 

Sting played song after song with very little chat in between. The set was very much drawn from the Police back catalogue with the same power trio lineup of bass, guitar and drums. His voice was holding up well. The full set list can be found on setlist.fm.

Wednesday 31: Fly home into Manchester airport. We had bought train tickets with seat reservations for two hours after we were due to land to allow contingency. As it turned out everything went smoothly and we had time to kill at the station but then the second part of our train journey (from Preston to Penrith) was cancelled. This was the first problem we had on our whole train journey! Rather than risk getting stuck at Preston we bought new tickets and jumped on a train that went direct to Penrith and got home in plenty of time. We have to give credit to Trainline who refunded the price of the whole original journey.

In the words of Frank Sinatra "It's very nice to go trav'ling, But it's, oh, so nice to come home", to sleep in our own bed and look back on our grand adventure.

Tuesday, August 13, 2024

Bassenthwaite Lake Station 3rd Birthday BBQ

Bassenthwaite Lake Station, Cumbria.Thursday 08-August-2024. 

A different kind of event at the café. We've been there for brunch, wine tastings and murder mystery evenings. This time it was a barbecue to celebrate their third birthday. As it was late afternoon we were able to get there and back mostly by bus rather than the expense of B&B at the Pheasant Inn.

We got the X4 over to Keswick but, despite what the downloaded timetable said, we had half an hour to kill to get the X5 to the bus stop across the road from the station. 

Our ticket to the barbecue included an initial glass of wine and we decided to treat it as a wine tasting, trying the wines in pairs. They had a decent selection of local beers as well as wine so I started off with a stout and Mary had the first two Sauvignon Blanc.

There was quite a queue for the food, so we sat down with our initial drinks and waited for the rush to die down. I went for a cheeseburger in a brioche bun and Mary went for the piri piri chicken with flat bread.

The proprietors of the station and our hosts for the event Simon (with the glasses on his head) and Diana in the red top.

Notes are from their handouts.  are Mary's star ratings. For all except the last pairing I preferred the opposite to Mary’s choice which made it easy to decide who finished off each of the pair.

Sauvignon blanc

  • Freedom Cross Sauvignon Blanc, 2021, 12.5% (South Africa). Alluring flavours and rumours of tropical fruit, with apricot and fig with notes of grassiness on the fresh, zesty palate.
  • Santa Luz Sauvignon Blanc Gran Reserva, 2021, 13% (Chile) Fresh aromas of lime and grapefruit with hints of green herbs with a wonderful crisp acidity and a delicate mineral character that lingers through to the finish. Classy.

Garnacha Rosé

  • Campo Nuevo Garnacha Rosé, 2021, 12% (Spain) Aromas of strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant and a subtle, dry creamy edge on the palate.
  • Principe de Viana Pleno Garnacha Rosé, 2021, 12% (Spain) Made from Garnacha this is a fruit driven, easy drinking rose with aromas of strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant.

Malbec

  • Hornhead Malbec, 2023, 13% (France) Deep dark red. Beautiful flavours of dark fruits, amplified with hints of coffee, cocoa and subtle rosemary.
  • Las Pampas Malbec, 2023, 13.5 (Argentina) Laden with lush creamy cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruit, with a faint hint of spice and smoke.

Carignan / Marselan

  • Coquille de Terre, Old Vines Carignan, 2023, 13% (France) Purple red with lovely aromas of blackberry and vanilla. Dense and velvety, Intense red berries and a lingering finish.
  • Le Professeur Marselan, 2023, 13.5% (France) Dark and intense with hints of black pepper and violet with aromas of blackberry and cassis. This wine offers a rich and dense mouth feel.

There was lots of seating in a marquee, on picnic tables on the platform and in the carriages. When a table came free in one of the carriages we were able to enjoy our meal in greater comfort. We were also entertained by a couple of guitarists each of whom did a half hour set.

Because we were not sure as to whether or not the X4 and X5 connected at Keswick we decided to book a taxi back to Keswick bus station and then got the bus from there all the way home, literally to the top of our street.

The wine measures were generous so we slept well. 

It was a fun event and we look forward to Bassenthwaite Lake Station having many more birthdays.

Thursday, August 01, 2024

Grand Tour 2024 - Freiburg

Freiburg, Germany. Friday/Wednesday 17/22-July-2024.

Table of Contents:

Thursday 18: Fourth leg of this year's interrailing adventure. We spent a couple of hours in Freiburg on last year's trip but it was not enough so planned a revisit. Another fascinating town with beautiful buildings, lots to do and a parkrun.

We were in an AirBnB this time in Gunsterstal, village a 20 minute bus ride south of Freiburg centre. The bus stop was very close so it was easy to pop in and out of the city. As usual we did an initial recce to familiarise ourselves with the city centre. That evening we bought some food and cooked a simple supper at the apartment.

Friday 19: Friday was the big touristing day. Tourist Information, located in the Rathaus, has a really useful fold-out town map for €1 with a suggested walking tour and brief details of each of the most important buildings. A small selection of all the fascinating buildings:

Followed by lunch in Rappen restaurant, in the Munsterplatz with a view of the cathedral. 

A unique feature of Freiburg is the Bächle which are small water-filled runnels. We didn't remember them from our brief visit last year but I'm not sure how we managed to miss them, there were so many of them in much of the historic centre. Almost every street you had to watch out for them. The main modern day use seems to be for small children to pull little Bächle boats on string. 


We saw grown-ups having late-night picnics, a shopkeeper cooling watermelons and many people just sitting cooling their feet. Read more on Wikipedia: [Freiburg Bächle].

We had excellent beer and lunch at Martins Brau close to the historic Martins Gate. I had what was basically a spam fritter with fried egg on top. Mary wanted to try as many types of bratwurst as possible and they were offering four different types in one dish!

We dined that night in the nearby Gasthause Kybfelsen, only a 15 minute walk from the apartment.

Saturday 20: As always Saturday is parkrun day. The Dietenbach parkrun is north-west of the city and our AirBnB location meant a 50 minute journey by bus and tram to get to the park.

Dietenbach parkrun was a lovely course and I managed first in my age category - but then I was the only one in my age category! On the way round Mary spotted a very tame rabbit. Afterwards we went to great café nearby for a post-parkrun coffee and chat with the regulars.

Afterwards we went for a wander around the market in Munsterplatz as Mary wanted to buy some olive-wood salt spoons. In the end she couldn't decide on which one so bought three!

With amazing serendipity again, we managed to be in a town with a festival. Freiburg were having their annual Museums-Nacht which at €10 for a wristband gave access to all the participating museums in town. Along with their usual exhibits there was a varied programme of talks and performances, from 6pm to 1am. We saw two performances of Capoeira - an Afro-Brazilian Martial art - children first then adults later. We also fitted in three bands. 

Supper was a very messy galette whilst we listened to a classical ensemble followed by a band swing band.

Later we switched venue to the Cathedral workshop for the excellent Catastrophe Waitress. A very enjoyable way to end the evening.

Sunday 21: We have read many reports of the unreliability of the German train service, including from Germans themselves. Monday's leg of the tour included a 5 hour journey from Mulhouse on the TGV down to Marseille followed by a 3 hour Intercity train to Carcassonne. 

We could not afford to miss the TGV and did not want to risk an early start, a bus and two possible unreliable German trains to get to Mulhouse. So we decided to curtail our stay in Freiburg by one night and instead transferred the night before to a hotel close to Mulhouse train station. This also gave us a chance to explore somewhere new.

Mulhouse being right on the border with Switzerland many of the street names were bi-lingual; sometimes direct translations, sometime not.

We had a picnic lunch on the train, a relax in the hotel then went out for a beer at the amusingly named Pub Fiction.

That was followed by a fantastic supper at Le Faubourg. We immediately have more confidence in a restaurant with short menus. A huge list of dishes make me wonder how they can all be freshly prepared. This had three starters, three mains and three desserts. We had two courses and they were delicious washed down with a lovely wine from Alsace.

Next stop: Carcassonne.

Monday, July 29, 2024

Grand Tour 2024 - Konstanz

Konstanz, Germany. Wednesday/Wednesday 10/17-July-2024.

Table of Contents:

Wednesday 10: Train. Mary nearly forgot to take the train station photo! We had to jump off the train and act quickly so no time to take several shots so this will have to do.

On the journey from Vienna to Konstanz we started to see real mountains, usually with large flat plains full of crops at their foothills. I was surprised to see such flatness as I didn't think glaciation had got this far south but Wikipedia set me straight.

Our home exchange apartment was gorgeous: light, airy and modern. It was across the Rhine from the old town with Lake Constance literally at the bottom of the street and only half a dozen tram stops into the centre. The area was so very neat and tidy and affluent looking; it had a very Swiss vibe to it.

Thursday 11: Part of the rationale behind spending longer in each city was that we could relax and sit about and not have to be the hectic tourist constantly rushing about. We spent the morning at the apartment, had lunch and then wandered into town along the scenic lakeside path. It was a warm day so lots of people were out enjoying the sunshine by the lake.

Konstanz was never bombed in the war as it was so close to the Swiss border. This means the town centre is full of interesting old buildings. The two on the left date from 1270!

As in other countries, we spotted lots of signs advertising the wares of the shop, pub or inn.

Following a recommendation from our host, we had a traditional supper at Constanzer Wirthaus, on their terrace right beside the Rhine and watched the river flow and swimmers and boats of all types. We enjoyed the setting, food and beer so much we booked there again for our last night.

Friday 12: More relaxing at the apartment, then after lunch we wandered into town for some light shopping and an early supper at Brauhaus "Joh. Albrecht" which we picked at random. Food was ok but unfortunately the beer was not.

Like Vienna, Konstanz also had a summer festival so we saw two excellent concerts in the same hall. First was classical with Schostakowitsch, Federic Bolli (the composer himself was present) and Tschaikowsi. Performed by the Südwestdeutsche Philharmonie Konstanz and some amazing soloists, especially the violinist.

  • Dmitri Schostakowitsch, Cellokonzert Nr. 1 Es-Dur op. 107
  • Frédéric Bolli, Klavier Hände Konzert
  • Peter Tschaikowski, Violinkonzert D-Dur op. 35
  • Leitung: Claudio Novati
  • Alexey Stadler Violoncello
  • Herbert Schuch | Gülru Ensari Klavier
  • loana Cristina Goicea Violine, 

Saturday 13: Saturday is always parkrun day. This week it was the lovely, if slightly damp, Hockgraben parkrun. Two flat laps around tarmac and gravel paths. Great bunch of volunteers as always. Small crowd, only 35 of us in total. Mary had a nice chat with Wolfgang, the Tailwalker, who had lived in Naples at one time so they conversed partly in Italian and partly in English!

Afterwards we had a lovely brunch at Schuler's on the recommendation of our host.

Back at the apartment we had a late shower and a relax before heading back into town for a light snack at Glöckle an excellent wine bar in Konstanz centre offering many wines by the glass. 

We shared a couple of flammkucken, a regional speciality:


Then our second cultural event in two days, a jazz / soul concert performed by an excellent two-piece comprising Karl Frierson on vocals and percussion, and Peter Vogel on piano. They performed a number of pop ballads in a smooth jazz style: Sledgehammer, I can't stand the rain, Isn't she lovely, Billie Jean, Summertime. All very relaxing and enjoyable. 

Coming out of the concert hall we saw our bus heading off down the street so to complete the relaxation we went to Glöckle for another glass of wine whilst waiting for the next bus.

Sunday 14: We walked up to Mainau island (aka flower island). So much to see and we loved the jokey beds such as the peacock and ducks.

Mary just had to swim in the lake. It must not have been too chilly as she was in there for half an hour.

We passed this lovely building almost daily and only after several days spotted the dragon on the underside of the balcony.

Monday 15: Lake Constance cruise.

We did a boat trip around the top part of Lake Constance coloured dark blue. We could have got off at every stop but limited ourselves to just two.

We went to Unteruhldingen to see the reconstruction of the prehistoric villages on stilts that I learnt about in my teens. Over half a century later I get to see the reconstructions in real life. Plus a fascinating, newly-opened museum giving insights into why they were built and how people lived plus amazing exhibits from around 4000 - 1000 BC found preserved in the mud.

It is one of the “Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps” which have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is comprised of 111 sites in six countries – France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Italy. 

Having sailed up to Uberlingen and back, our second disembark was Meersburg with imposing old and new castles and other fine buildings.

We wandered round the town admiring the buildings and climbed up to see the castles. This is the old Castle. The tower on the right seems to be in a state of shock.

We managed to fit in a wine tasting at the state winery, tasting Muller Thurgau, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Riesling won!

Tuesday 16: We had a day of relaxation and in the evening walked to Hohenegg restaurant that we had spotted on the walk to the flower island.  Next door to the Ruppaner brewery whose beer we had tasted and liked - 0km beer!

Wednesday 17: We transferred to the IBIS budget in Konstanz and walked all the way from the apartment to the hotel which might have been a mistake as we were distinctly warm by the time we got there.

That evening we had supper on the riverside terrace at Constanzer Wirthaus washed down with some their own beers.

Next stop: Freiburg im Breisgau