Wine Tasting - Albea 2026

Alberobello, Puglia, Italy. Wednesday 03-June-2026.

We first went to Albea for a tasting back in September 2022. This return visit was prompted by having some friends to stay who they wanted to do some wine tastings. Our previous visit focused more on the mechanics: sourcing of the grapes and the production of the wine. This time, with a different host, we learnt much more about the history of the company.

A quick visit to the barrel room where our host, Nico, explained a bit about the history and current ethos of the company. 

Some long while ago we were told that the French used to import large quantities of southern Italian wine to boost their own production. We had thought it was to make their poor quality wines fruitier, higher in alcohol and more saleable. As a result of this tasting we learnt a more nuanced story. It actually goes back to the late 1800s when phylloxera ravaged the French vineyards but hadn’t made it down south. With ravaged vines in France, the vignerons looked to southern Italy to augment their production.

Albea was founded in 1905 and was deliberately positioned next to the railway line for ease of logistics, shipping tankers full of wine up north to France. Apparently, other Puglia wineries did the same. As French vineyards gradually recovered by replanting vines on American root stock the demand for their wines dropped but a new market opened up in northern Italy for making vermouth. 

In the 80s that market started to get a little more challenging so they decided to switch away from bulk wine to bottles. At the same time they started on a program of working with twelve selected farmers to improve the quality of the grapes. Previously Farmers were paid by sugar content or redness of the grapes - a payment mechanism that encouraged high yield probably at the expense of quality.

We had also been previously told that a number of other producers such as Leone di Castris also decided to go down the quality route at that time. If I were cynical, I could deposit that it was as much driven by changing the market forces as it was a desire to improve quality as there was a market for well produced wines.

That was followed by a quick trip through the museum (it was hot!) and we ended up in a large function / tasting room.

1. Odegitria White Metodo Classica Pas Dosé 12.5%.

sparkling.

2. Il Selva DOC Locorotondo Superiore.

The Locorotondo DOC is an appellation created in the 1980s based upon the mix of grapes grown in the area, predominantly Verdeca. Aged in barrique following fermentation for eight months then in bottle for another six. Some of the wine was matured in clay pots and blended to get the best wine they could.

3. Petrarosa Primitivo Rosato IGP 12.5%.

I don’t know whether it is my imagination, but I think I see a shift in the great varieties used for Rose. When Susumaniello started appearing in its red form that was swiftly followed by the rosé version. We are now seeing rosé made from the more intense red varieties such as Primitivo and Negroamaro.

4. Lei Bianco D'Italia 13.5%.

They produce two ranges of wine. We were tasting the top tier wines. Their second range is called Due Trulli at a more affordable price point. What one winemaker in Australia euphemistically described as “lifestyle wine”.

5. Susumaniello Puglia IGP 13.5%.

The current raising star grape variety.

6. Petranera Primitivo IGP 14.5%.

My favourite Puglian great variety coming in at a hefty 14.5%.

7. Sol Primitivo IGP 15%.

An interesting compare-and-contrast with the previous Primitivo. If I recall correctly, we preferred the Petranera.

6. Lui Nero Di Troia IGP 14%.

Another single variety wine. They don’t seem to be going in for blends apart from the Locorotondo DOC. We all liked this wine and tought it a much more complex and interesting than the other reds.

Line up at the end (minus the sparkling).

A very interesting and enjoyable tasting. It just goes to show that doing a repeat is worthwhile.