Wine Tasting - Weno

Locorotondo, Puglia, Italy. Friday 29-May-2026.

Another wine tasting organised while our friends were visiting. This time a niche producer, Weno, who only produce sparkling wine and only by the traditional champagne method. We first encountered their wines in Vineria Del Borgo last year as recommended by an excellent and very knowledgeable waiter. We subsequently went to Weno's cantina to buy some of their wine. This year we thought it would be a great place to revisit for a full tasting.

We got much more than just the wine tasting that we were expecting. The owners popped us into their people mover and drove us out to a couple of their vineyards to see their work-in-progress. Previous vintages have been made using a mix of their own grapes plus some bought from local farmers but now they are planting their own vineyards to be as self sufficient as possible.

The first vineyard we visited was only planted last year and consists of Susumaniello grapes. Even this year you could see tiny grapes but it will be two or three years before the first harvest is possible.

These vines are being trained by the Guyot method - developed by Jules Guyot in 1860s and now found all over the world, especially Burgundy.

Next stop was a vineyard they planted with Susumaniello two years ago. It was previously a barren field which they converted into a viable field using heavy machinery, including one we nicknamed the rock muncher when they did the same to a field next to us some years ago [Rock Muncher].

Our hosts Mino Zanzariello and wife Alma giving us the background to this field and their plans.

The first year vines having reached the first wire were then bent through 90° to run along to the adjacent vine and trimmed off there. The effect is a linear grapevine running the entire length of the row at about 80 cm off the ground. The shoots from that horizontal line will be trained upwards to the second row of wires from which the grapes will hang and be harvested. This creates a canopy of foliage to protect the grapes from the sun.

They explained that they had several small plots around the area including an established one at their trulli. This will be where they will be holding their tastings in future but as they are currently renovating it, including turning a large cisterna into a tasting room, we were were not able to visit that property.

They do not have a winery as their friends press the grapes, do the first fermentation and bottling for them.

Back at the cantina these are stacks of the wine quietly undergoing the second fermentation which generates the bubbles.

There were rows and rows of bottles standing on their heads in special racks called pupitres exactly as we had seen in Champagne. These are wines that are rotated regularly and tilted each time so that the yeast gradually works its way down into the neck of the bottle. A process known as riddling (remuage in French).

The bottoms of the bottles have a chalk mark so that when doing the rotations it is possible to tell which ones have been processed and how far. Although their production is relatively small (50k bottles per annum) they told us that the place was too small and they are looking for new premises.

Mavù Verdeca Vino Spumante Pas Dosé Valle d'itria IGP. 12%.

Finally back into the tasting room for the first of the three styles they produce: zero dosage (no added sugar) and 100% Verdeca.

Mavù Susamenello Rosato Vino Spumante Pas Dosé Valle d'itria IGP. 12%. 

Next step their rosé, 100% Susamenello.

There was a selection of nibbles to go with the tasting.

Mavù Maresco Bianco Vino Spumante Pas Dosé Valle d'itria IGP. 12%.

Third in the tasting, 100% Maresco. It is an ancient, rare white grape native to the Puglia region of southern Italy, specifically the Itria Valley near Locorotondo. For decades, Maresco was an "unofficial" variety. Because it was so rare and only found in small quantities in old, mixed vineyards, it was not initially included in the Italian National Registry of Vine Varieties.

Fascinating to taste three different grapes vinified the same way. We liked all three so had to buy two of each.

Wine Tasting - Montemarcuccio

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. Thursday 28-May-2026.

We first tasted Montemarcuccio‘s Prima Filari in Osteria Bell’Italia. It was so tasty we went hunting for it in the local supermarkets but were unable to find any. We then learnt that, at the time, they only supplied to the trade. However, our friend Chris was able to make direct contact and persuade them to sell her a case to split with us. Then we learnt that the mother of the family ran in a dress shop in nearby Casalini and that if we went to the shop we could buy their wine there.

Fast forward a couple of years and Montemarcuccio built a tasting room a couple of kilometres out of town. We used the occasion of friends visiting to book a tasting. The tasting was lead by Antonio, the son of the family.

Served with salami, cheese and taralli.

1. Fós Bianco Frizzante Valle D'Itria IGP 11%.

Made from a blend of Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano and Minutolo. Very refreshing.

2. Fós Rosato Frizzante Valle D'Itria IGP 11%.

No varietals specified.

3. Fós Primi Filari Verdeca Valle D'Itria IGP 12.5%.

Unsurprisingly we very much enjoyed this wine. We have been drinking a lot more Verdeca recently, this is a great example and one we regularly have at home.

4. Miranto Rosato Ottavianello Valle D'Itria IGP 12.5%.

The Ottavianello is an alias for the Cinsaut grape, a heat tolerant variety which makes it suitable for this area. The wine is named after the children of the family - Miranda and Antonio (who lead this tasting)

5. Elphis Red Ottavianello Valle d'Itria IGP 12.5%.

The same grape but in the full red version. Softy and fruity, we did not like this as much as the others.

Itrio Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

To quote their website, "The name Itrio recalls our land, the Itria Valley , but also celebrates the harmony of the trio of varieties that make up the blend: Ogliarola, with its delicate and soft taste, Toscanina, which gives elegance and intensity and Cellina di Nardò, which gives depth and character." We tasted this oil on bread and it was lovely.

Their full range displayed.

Of course we could not leave empty handed and came away with a couple of bottles.

Lecce Wine and Food Tasting

Lecce, Puglia, Italy. Saturday 23-May-2026.

After parkrun we did a little wandering around Lecce centre and a deliberately light lunch because we had booked a wine and food tasting at La Strada del Vino. Obviously, we are well acquainted with the main grape varieties of Puglia, but it is always nice to find new producers. Our host gave us a bit of background on each wine including where the grapes are grown but unfortunately we did not take any notes.

The food tasting was a platter of antipasti, each one chosen to go with a different wine.

1. Flaminio Verdeca Bianco IGP Salento from Vallone.

Verdeca is currently our preferred white wine so it’s nice to try yet another. This was paired with three different cheeses. More info on the wine...

2. Flaminio Rosé Wine Negroamaro D.O.P. Brindisi 2025 from Vallone.

This is made from the Negroamaro grape which makes a classic Puglian red. The rosato is made by allowing the juice to remain in contact with the skins for only a couple of hours before vinification to extract a modest amount of colour. Apparently the grapes for this are grown near the sea and hence, according to our host, it has a slightly salty taste. We could definitely detect a pleasant minerality. More info on the wine...

This was paired with a very tasty bruschetta with olives, tomato and capers. Mary is always a fan of anything with capers!

3. Versante Rosso Negroamaro IGP Salento 2025 from Vallone.

Same grape, same producer, same vintage but this time a longer skin contact gives us the full red version. This was paired with a spicy salami. This red really brought out the spiciness in the food. More info on the wine...

4. Neprica Primitivo 2024 from Tomaresca.

I was pleased to see this Primitivo in the tasting as it is I my preferred grape variety; often high in alcohol and sugar. Puglia is a big producer of almonds so they decided to pair it with almond biscuits. Not hard crunchy ones like cantucci but something a little softer. More info on the wine...

We also learned that Marchesi Antinori (a company and a dynasty), better known for their Super Tuscans, acquired the Tormaresca winery in 1998 which says something of the high esteem in which they hold this winery and area.

We had a very pleasant chat with Grace and Jill on the next table who were on their first visit to Puglia and seemed to be suitably impressed. We came away having had a pleasant time with a couple of producers to look out for and more background on the Puglian wine industry.

City Break - Palermo

Palermo, Sicily, Italy. Thursday/Sunday 07/11-May-2026.

Of course it was parkrun that triggered this trip. We had heard that Uditore parkrun was at risk of closure. So we decided we would pop over for the weekend to visit Palermo for the first time and to tick this parkrun off the list.

Thursday 07-May-2026.

A mid afternoon flight so a mid morning start - very civilised times for a Ryanair flight. A drive to the long-stay car park and we had a late lunch airside before our 15:00 flight. The flight is only one hour long so it was over almost before it began. 

Our apartment was lovely but a bit inconvenient for travel into town so for our first night we decided to stay local. We found a nearby highly rated fish Ristorante Pescheria CB Sea Food but we made mistakes in the ordering. They offered a €40 four course deal. First mistake was choosing a primo that had many of the same ingredients as the secondi. 

The second problem was their quantities were very generous and we were so stuffed we had to forgo half the main course and the dolce.

The first couple of starters were delicious.

Sadly the other two starters were disappointing - the limpets were chewy like rubber and gritty - not a pleasant experience. The seafood paella was ok but a little stodgy.

The primi was seafood risotto which was tasty. The secondi course was mixed fried seafood with all the same components as the paella and the risotto but deep fried so not enough contrast in terms of taste and texture. Sadly I would not go back there again. 

On the other hand the white wine was delicious. Grillo is a local grape variety and we were impressed by the exotic, floral notes.

Friday 08-May-2026.

A full day of doing the tourist stuff. One of the interesting things about Palermo (and Sicily in general) is the mix of architectural styles: Roman, Norman, Arabic, Byzantine, etc. reflecting the different invasions over the centuries. 

Our first stop was the tourist information office where the very helpful chap gave us a map of the city and sketched out some of the key places to visit. He highlighted the sights for us to visit and gave us a brief description of why they were important.

First stop: Quattro Canti (Four Songs), the main crossroads that marks the centre of the old town.

From there we walked up to the main cathedral. We bought a ticket that gave us entry to the main building, the crypt where a number of Roman sarcophagi had been repurposed for mediaeval bishops, the treasury where religious gold and silver artifacts were on display, and the rooftop.

The viewer from the roof was spectacular but a little scary. I’m not a huge fan of heights, but the railings were sturdy and I kept to the centre of the walkway where possible.

We then continued west to the Royal Palace and explored the area around there, passing the Porta Nuova.

We had a wander around the church of San Giovanni degli Eremitio which had been the mosque at one point. A fascinating mix of Islamic domes, Romanesque cloister ruins and tranquil gardens.

Next, as advised by the man at tourist information, we went down to Ballarò market area and found ourselves a lunch spot at Greta’s where Mary had a delicious Caponata (a traditional Sicilian dish) with added swordfish. We have made it at home twice since we got back and it will be entering our standard repertoire.  

After lunch, we’re headed north for a tour of the Teatro Massimo. We took a bilingual, guided tour of this fascinating concert venue, built around the same time as the Royal Albert Hall but more ornate.

Like the Royal Albert Hall, it has seating in a horse shoe shaped auditorium and tiers of boxes plus a Royal Box which we got to see.

In the grounds of the theatre was this entertaining art installation of garden gnomes crossed with the Terracotta Army, a temporary art exhibition by Italian artist Max Papeschi titled Extinction: The Twilight of the Gnomes. The installation, described as a "dystopian" army, serves as a critique of modern society, aiming to highlight hypocrisy regarding peace, war, and environmental destruction.

For supper we decided to head down to Notarbartolo which seems to be the Clapham Junction of Palermo where there were plenty of well rated restaurants. Being a tourist is thirsty work so we went for a cocktail before dining. Mary had this very tasty melon version of an aperol spritz while I, of course, had to try a local Palermo gin and tonic.

While there we were stunned to spot a K6 Telephone box across the road! The shop behind was called Cabine Inglese.

We had a very nice meal at a restaurant coincidentally called Terracotta.

Saturday 09-May-2026.

Uditore 09/05/26 29:35 [13/39].

Uditore parkrun in Palermo today on a lovely day, albeit a bit hotter than we are currently used to. The oldest parkrun in Italy, two weeks away from their 11th birthday and at risk of closure! According to the petition for the park supporters, which stands at over 25,000 signatures: 

"Uditore Park represents one of the few green spaces within the urban context of Palermo, providing a vital space for relaxation, sports, and community gatherings. Unfortunately, by 2026, the existence of this urban and social asset could be at risk due to a lack of funding from the Sicilian Region. This situation is unacceptable, both for environmental conservation and for the well-being of the local community.".

The latest success is that the water meter has been replaced thanks to generous donations from supporters. The ball is now in the court of the authorities.. 

Today, as well as the park runners and walkers, it was well used by all sorts of people: people walking and running the paths, families with children in the play parks, older kids chattering on the grass, dogs being walked and playing in the large dog parks and a bunch of martial artists practising with real, very scary looking swords! 

In an area full of high-rise flats, this would be a significant loss to the community as well as the parkrun family.

Lovely to meet up with the five fellow tourists from the UK.

Back to the apartment for the obligatory (and necessary) shower and straight back into town. First stop a delicious, light, salad lunch at Bar Al Capriccio.

We went down to the old harbour which was lovely and went in to the nearby Chiesa Parrocchiale di Santa Maria della Pietà.

Porta Felice down by the harbour.

We then had an hour to spare before a booked wine tasting so we popped into the botanical gardens which were excellent. We spent a very pleasant time wandering around.

What I liked was that the informative plaques not only told you what they were and where they were from but also included a small item of trivia for every single one.

The wine tasting was at at Bottega Monteleone. The selection of wines was interesting, representing some of the range produced locally (one each of sparkling, white, rose, red and sweet) and we liked them all. The food pairings worked well and they were very good at adapting to cater for Mary’s lactose intolerance. Full write up at Sicilian Wine Tasting With Snacks.

After the gastronomic indulgences of the first couple of nights we decided to go for a simple pizza at the highly rated Alex Bar - Pizzeria near our apartment.

Sunday 10-May-2026.

Because of the timings we did not have any opportunity for doing tourist stuff on Sunday. We packed up, cleared out of the apartment and sat in the garden enjoying the sunshine for an hour. Then headed off to the airport which took two hours by public transport, got ourselves our airside and had a snack lunch.

The flight landed 10 minutes ahead of schedule and with no formalities to go through we were off and away back to Cisternino in record time for an aperitivo at Oltramura and a meal at Chirico.

Sicilian wine tasting with snacks

Palermo, Sicily, Italy. Saturday, 10 May 2026.

We booked this excellent food and wine pairing at Bottega Monteleone through Get My Guide. I can do no better than quote Mary’s review:

"We booked for their wine tasting with food and loved it, would definitely recommend to others. A great opportunity to try some unfamiliar wines and local food. 

We could not have asked for better - our waiter was friendly and very knowledgeable, telling us all about each wine and the food before we tasted them and in perfect English. 

The selection of wines was interesting, representing some of the range produced locally (one each of sparkling, white, rose, red and sweet) and we liked them all. The food pairings worked well and they were very good at adapting to cater for my lactose intolerance. 

As other people have noted, wine portions were generous, allowing to taste the wine without and with the food and still have plenty to savour. The five food tastings were equivalent to a light meal. 

We were sat a table with a lovely couple and were not rushed in any way making for a very enjoyable evening. A place to go back to - so many more wines to try!"

1. Sparkling: Coppola - Spumante Extra Brut Grillo "71". 12%.

The Grillo grape is typically Sicilian. According to Wikipedia: "Grillo, also known as Riddu and Rossese bianco, is a white Italian wine grape variety that withstands high temperatures and is widely used in Sicilian winemaking and, in particular, for making Marsala. Its origins are uncertain, but it may have been introduced into the island of Sicily from Apulia".

We had a Grillo as a still wine on our first evening in Palermo and were impressed by the exotic, floral notes so much so that we had the same the following evening with our meal. I was pleased to see it here again in the sparkling version, delicious and not too dry.

Matched with a pasta salad: fusilli with a tomato sauce.

2. White: Cantina Patria - Etna Bianco DOC Sensi. 13%

The Etna Bianco is, obviously, grown on Etna’s volcanic slopes at 750 meters above sea level. 80% Carricante and 20% Catarratto. Light and refreshing, we got the expected spiel about minerality!

Matched with crostini: one with tapenade, the other with a soft ricotta topped with an anchovy fillet and lemon zest - the latter really lifting the flavours. 

3. Rosé: Terre di Gratia - Dama Rosa. 12%

The rosato grape variety: 100% Perricone (also known as Pignatello). 

Paired with pecorino cheese (sorry, forgot to photo) of three different agings: a soft pecorino, one with a few months aging and the third a tangy version aged for 12 months. Fascinating to taste the evolution.

4. Red: Quattrocieli - Jocu Nero d’Avola. 12.5%.

Another Sicilian varietal, Nero D'Avola is named after the town of Avola in the south-east of the island. Delicious, not too heavy and with scarcely a trace of tannins.

Paired with assorted salumeria: a parma style ham, a soft salami and a mortadella.

5. Sweet: Tenuta delle Palme - Zibibbo Terre Siciliana. 16%

This vino liquoroso was delicious - I do like Italian desert wines. The Zibibbo grape, also known as Muscat of Alexandria, is an ancient grape variety. They believe that this grape it is one of the oldest genetically unmodified vines still in existence. The grape originated in North Africa, and the name is probably derived from its association with Ancient Egyptians who used the grape for wine making. 

It is used in one of my favourite dessert wines, Pantelleria from the island of the same name just off the coast of Sicily. 

The biscuits look a bit like cantucci but are softer and are apparently made using stale bread so nothing goes to waste!

It was an excellent introduction to Sicilian varietals.

Looking at their blackboard menu, as Mary said, so many more to try.