Tuesday, October 15, 2024

City Break - Berlin

Berlin, Germany. Wednesday/Monday 02/07-October-2024.

Yet again, parkrun is the inspiration for a city break.

Normally parkrun is on a Saturday but each year there are two days where event teams may choose to hold a parkrun on another day. One is New Year’s Day (January 1st) in all countries; the other is a ‘Special Day’ for each individual country - List of Special Days. In the UK the special day is Christmas Day, in Germany it is National Unity Day. 

We are grateful to the German volunteers for giving up some of their holiday to make this trip worthwhile.

This presented us with an opportunity to do a city break in a larger city that has two parkruns. We chose Berlin as it is one of the great cities of the world which neither of us had visited before and was on our travel wish list. 

Wednesday 02-October-24. Travel.

We booked an anything-but-low-cost RyanAir flight, Bari to Brandenburg Airport. We arranged accommodation through Home Exchange in a fantastic apartment right next to one of the two parkruns. In keeping with the tradition of the UK parkrun tourists FaceBook group we posted a photo of us at the airport including our Cow Cowell - the "masonic" insignia of this group!

Hassenheide had put out a call for volunteers but when Mary offered to be Tail Walker or Park Walker they had to turn her down - apparently the course is so complex that they wanted someone familiar with it, having lost a front runner and a tail walker in the past. They subsequently put out a call for cakes so Mary baked some tea loaf muffins and transported them from Italy like "Cakes On A Plane".

After a 30 minute Uber ride from the airport we arrived at the apartment. The apartment and a view of the park opposite:

Having arrived we explored the area looking for a supermarket for breakfast basics and spotted the Muted Horn, a nearby craft ale bar that was an ideal place to go for a drink before eating out. 

We do like a bar that does a paddle of beers. Normally bars offer three beers, this bar offered a four beer paddle and the barman was very helpful in suggesting beers to suit our respective palates.

We decided to eat local and went to Bloom's, the nearest restaurant to our apartment, which served a great selection of tapas and good beer plus great music that could have come from our own playlist! 

Thursday 03-October-24. German Unity Day.

We were hoping to do Hasenheide parkrun first because the park is right opposite the apartment and meant we did not have to familiarise ourselves with the German transport system in order to get to the more distant parkrun at Havelkanal on our first day. 

It was a bit of a nail biter as they only declared two weeks earlier having had to wait for permission from the council to be confirmed.

Unsurprisingly there were a large number of UK tourists doing the same as us, making a long weekend break of it and doing the two Berlin parkruns.

It was a lovely wooded parkrun, two laps, and level apart from an entirely unnecessary loop round a steep hill on the second lap. During his briefing in English and German, the Run Director, tongue firmly in cheek, asked if there were any tourists which got a loud, ironic cheer and lots of raised hands. However they were obviously expecting us as they had organised three first timers briefings, two in English and one in German. There were tourists from all over UK and further afield. We chatted to a visitor from Australia who we thought would win the furthest tourist but, as she predicted, there was someone from NZ! 

All 48 of the mini muffins were devoured and many compliments received. Then back to Bloom's for a huge brunch and more great music.

Friday 04-October-24. A day of touristing.

We spent much the day wandering about the town following a downloaded itinerary. Out itinerary started at the World Clock took us past lots of historic buildings including the Berliner Dom, through the Brandenburg Gate and ending up at the Reichstag.

The Marienkirche - the only building we went inside.

I was mightily amused by the Berlin pedestrian crossing green man sporting a jaunty hat. The Berliners obviously also have a soft sport for Ampelmann [traffic light man].

We saw a couple of shops devoted to his merchandising so that was the fridge magnet souvenir sorted.

The other parkrun was some distance away so rather than get up at the crack of dawn and make our way by public transport to Havelkanal parkrun we treated ourselves to one night in a nearby guesthouse, La Brigitte, so that we would only have a short walk in the morning. The host, Brigitte herself, spoke little English but was very friendly.

Researching food options in the area we discovered an interesting looking restaurant in an old train carriage right next door and with good reviews. Turns out it was the idea of Brigette and it is her husband who runs it in their back garden. 

Lovely setting, bit lacking in atmosphere once the locals had left but very convenient. The short menu had typical German dishes and a good choice of beers. We will gloss lightly over the healthiness of the food. 

Dinner was a very Germanic supper of beer, curry wurst and chips or potatoes. 

Saturday 05-October-24. Havelkanal parkrun. 

Unsurprisingly we bumped into a number of the people we had seen on Thursday who were doing the same double as us.

Beautiful and flat course, out and back along the side of the canal on a tarmac path. Apparently there are beavers in the canal. We saw signs of a lodge on the far bank but no creatures. One of Mary's fastest times lately, so perhaps beer and curry wurst was the answer. Lots of walkers and, as always, a friendly bunch of volunteers.

There was cake!

Back to the guesthouse for a shower and a return to the city apartment. Then we went out for more wandering about the local area where I admired the decorations on wiring cabinets.

That evening we ate at Restaurant Hasenheide as recommended by Barbara, a Berliner, we met while she was visiting Puglia.

Sunday 06-October-24. Sightseeing.

This was the day we did most of our tourist wandering. We started with a two and a quarter hour boat tour along the River Spree. It was cool so we wrapped up with many layers. Even so my fingers went white with the cold.

From the river we saw lots of fascinating buildings: the TV Tower (locally known as the Toothpick where we subsequently had lunch), religious and government buildings such as the Reichstag, the Berliner Dom, state libraries, many different styles of architecture. The trip took us on a canal through the industrial area where we saw old hospitals and industrial buildings. The factory on the bottom left dates from 1900. 

We went for lunch in the TV Tower, in the revolving restaurant 207m up; each rotation takes 30 minutes. We did not have a seat by the window but we still had great views all over Berlin, often spotting somthing different on each rotation.

After lunch we did the Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie which were must see's on the tourist hit list. An open-air exhibition nearby gave a very helpful summary of what happened before, during and after the wall.

By then we were all walked out and went back to the apartment for our usual siesta.

We had been told about the festival of light so went back into town that evening to see spectacular laser light shows projected on a number of building along the Unter den Linden, an avenue running from the Berlin Palace to the Brandenburg Gate. 

The Berliner Dom all light up with changing static images.

The State Opera House.

Couldn’t resist. Had to go back to the Ampelmann shop to get the duck!

And, of course, we had to sample the beers in each place especially as it was Oktoberfest! That evening we went to Hopfingerbräu am Brandenburger Tor but were so full after lunch we were happy to see they offered soup on the menu. After starters, goulash soup for Mary and potato and sausage soup for me (plus beer) we had had sufficient so toddled off home.

Monday 07-October-24. Return.

Up very early, we Uber’d our way to the airport for a 09:05 flight back to Bari. As we didn’t fancy shopping for food we broke our drive home for a lunch at Osteria del Porto in Savelletri for a relaxed lunch. 

Then we drove home for a siesta, our parkrun extravaganza complete.

Tuesday, October 01, 2024

Everyday differences in Puglia: Threshing Floors

Puglia Differences: an occasional series on things that strike this Brit as so very Italian.

Scattered around the countryside you can see round flat stone areas surrounded by a low walls some 30 cm high. These are threshing floors (Italian: Aia). They are used for, literally, separating the wheat from the chaff.

Before mechanical threshing machines were invented, this is how the grains were separated from the stalks. An ancient farming technique that goes back millennia and is even mentioned in the Bible. The first biblical mention of the threshing floor is in Genesis 50:10. [Wikipedia].

These three examples are all from the countryside around Cisternino, but I have seen several others in my travels around the area.

There is even a local hotel (now closed) called “Aia del Vento” - Aia of the wind - named after this feature. The farmers would toss the wheat up into the air, the grain would fall to the ground and the wind would blow away the chaff. It doesn’t get much more mediaeval than that!

Monday, September 16, 2024

Laghironda 2024

Martina Franca, Puglia, Italy. Sunday 15-September-2024.

Every year the Martina Franca commune organise a two day, free music event in the town. This year was the 27th edition. We had a late lunch / early supper at home so we could spend the evening listening not eating. We then drove over to try out their new multi-story, underground carpark as parking can be tricky, especially on days like this. It was great, easy to find, plenty of spaces and only €1 per hour - what an exciting life we lead! 

First stop was in Piazza XX Settembre to listen to an excellent and lively band: Afro Dream an afro beat/pop group from Senegal / Martinique / Argentina / Italy. We sat at a nearby café with a drink so we could listen in comfort. I was particularly impressed by the lady on guitar. The front man was a great showman trying to whip up the crowd but they weren’t really responding.

Next we wandered into the rabbit warren that is the old town and found our way to this small square, Piazzetta Stabile, where Dixie Heritage, an Italian jazz band, were playing up on the balcony.

For most of the set they were joined by their vocalist who often used a powered megaphone as the modern equivalent of the old fashioned metal version. Vo-do-deo-do!

Back to Piazza XX Settembre for flamenco, we arrived just as the troupe were on their last 60 seconds and then left the stage! Fortunately there was a second performance scheduled for later.

This being a good Catholic country it seems that no large scale event would be complete without a parade of the BVM carried around on the shoulders of the faithful. What this had to do with the festival is anyone’s guess and I wonder who thought it would be a good idea to parade a statue and marching band through the narrow streets of Martina Franca already jammed with people!

As it happened the next venue we wanted was along the main passagiata route so we joined the parade down to the cloisters of Piazza Immacolata.

By now we had met up with our friends Trudi and Steve. We parked ourselves at a café directly opposite the stage, ordered a couple of drinks and settled in to enjoy some excellent lively music. Pablo Y Luna are from Italy but played music from around the world - we recognised Irish, Scottish, Balkan and some other distinctive styles we couldn't put a name to. 

Once Pablo Y La Luna had finished instead of vacating the stage they remained there and were joined by Lydia Koikocheva E Balkan Orkestra from Bulgaria and Italy for another accomplished and fun set. Even higher energy than the first band alone and they all looked like they were having way too much fun. Definitely the high spot of the evening.

Back to Piazza XX Septembre for the Barcelona Flamenco Company we missed earlier. This time we caught a decent chunk of their second performance.

We were heading back to the car when we came across Aly Keïta and Dobet Gnahoré in Piazza Roma from  the Ivory Coast playing some excellent African music. We stopped for a couple of songs and then carried on our way.

All in all an unexpectedly enjoyable evening with high quality musicianship. Will definitely watch out for this festival next year.

Tuesday, September 10, 2024

Fiera della Bomminella 2024

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. 7/8/9-September-2024.

Once a year we get a bonus market on the 8th of September, in addition to the usual Monday market. You can read the full backstory of this festival dating back to the 13th century in my write-up from Bomminella 2022.

This year Pro Loco Cisternino, the local tourist board, have gone all out and turned it into a three day celebration with events leading up to the fair on the 8th (Sunday).

Friday there were various events going on including the usual free jazz at Bar FOD. We booked ourselves a table to make sure of a seat but the start was delayed due to pizzica lessons taking place in the main square. However we then spent a very pleasant hour and a half with friends sipping our drinks and listening to two talented young musicians playing a number of jazz standards. 

Saturday night after dinner with friends we headed back to a stage by Porta Grande, opposite the mother church, to hear traditional Pizzica music and to watch the locals who knew all the steps and some tourists who danced with more gusto than technique.

Sunday was similar to our normal Monday market: I always have to park the car a couple of streets away the evening before as the market runs along both sections of Corso Umberto I and down via Regina Margarita. This is Corso Umberto on the Sunday outside our front door, from our terrace.

This is the view from our bedroom of Via Regina Margherita named after the wife of Umberto, King of Italy. She also gave her name to the Margherita pizza - tomato, mozzarella and basil for the colours of the Italian flag. 

Much of the market is similar to the normal Monday market with clothes, hats, handbags and homewares. One difference on Bomminella is down at the old market square where you can buy traditional wooden products: ladders, baskets, stools.

There were also a number of other stalls selling general homewares, lamps, fabrics, etc. They no longer sell livestock, cattle and sheep, but there was a pet stall where you could get a rabbit, a goldfish or a budgie plus all the pet paraphernalia you might need!

Ironmongery features in the street across from the old market square. Not normally used as part of the Monday market this street is an overflow where all the tool and agricultural hardware vendors can be found.

This guy was selling giant kebab skewers and all manner of hardware for industrial sized barbecues.

These curious devices are double ended, metal eggcups on a pole for harvesting prickly pear.

Back up into town, up Via Dante Alighieri, we passed this colourful display of artificial flowers in between all the usual clothes stalls.

This much-photographed stretch of Corso Umberto was full of craft stalls: hand made jewellery, artisanal objets d'art, and speciality foods.

Our section of Corso Umberto was partly taken up with food stalls instead of the usual socks and underwear. The pecorino truckles and local salami smelled amazing.

This year the local tourist board were promoting the festa with T-shirts advertising the Camino di Pecora (the way of the sheep) as mutton is a traditional dish on this day. The route on the back sponsored by nearly every bar and restaurant in town. Some locals were clearly making an effort to have a drink in as many as possible. We sat outside Birrosteria 72014 with our beers and watched the revellers.

We prudently booked at Lagravin directly below our apartment for supper as we knew it was going to be a busy night. What we didn’t realise was that the normal à la carte menu was off the cards. Instead, they were sensibly only offering a special Bomminella menu plus the usual pizza menu.

MENU' DELLA BOMMINELLA

  • ORECCHIETTE WITH DONKEY CHOPS AND MEATBALLS €13.00
  • TRIPE ROLLS €10.00
  • SHEEP IN BROTH €12.00
  • BEEF STEW €10.00
  • BROAD BEANS WITH CHERRY TOMATOES AND ONION €12.00.

I had a pizza with picante salami and Gorgonzola which was delicious, the topping was fine and the base was excellent, thin and tasty. I often leave some crust but this time I ate it all! Mary went for a traditional dish of the day: orecchiette with donkey. 

After supper, we went for a passeggiata around the old town which was heaving with a number of roving Pizzica bands and their audiences.

We finished off the evening, as many Italians do, with an ice cream sitting by Porta Grande listening to a young man playing piano.

Bar FOD has the best ice cream in town and they do vegan ice cream that Mary can eat. She doesn’t like the wafer so I always win hers!

Then it was all over for another year.