Laghironda 2024

Martina Franca, Puglia, Italy. Sunday 15-September-2024.

Every year the Martina Franca commune organise a two day, free music event in the town. This year was the 27th edition. We had a late lunch / early supper at home so we could spend the evening listening not eating. We then drove over to try out their new multi-story, underground carpark as parking can be tricky, especially on days like this. It was great, easy to find, plenty of spaces and only €1 per hour - what an exciting life we lead! 

First stop was in Piazza XX Settembre to listen to an excellent and lively band: Afro Dream an afro beat/pop group from Senegal / Martinique / Argentina / Italy. We sat at a nearby café with a drink so we could listen in comfort. I was particularly impressed by the lady on guitar. The front man was a great showman trying to whip up the crowd but they weren’t really responding.

Next we wandered into the rabbit warren that is the old town and found our way to this small square, Piazzetta Stabile, where Dixie Heritage, an Italian jazz band, were playing up on the balcony.

For most of the set they were joined by their vocalist who often used a powered megaphone as the modern equivalent of the old fashioned metal version. Vo-do-deo-do!

Back to Piazza XX Settembre for flamenco, we arrived just as the troupe were on their last 60 seconds and then left the stage! Fortunately there was a second performance scheduled for later.

This being a good Catholic country it seems that no large scale event would be complete without a parade of the BVM carried around on the shoulders of the faithful. What this had to do with the festival is anyone’s guess and I wonder who thought it would be a good idea to parade a statue and marching band through the narrow streets of Martina Franca already jammed with people!

As it happened the next venue we wanted was along the main passagiata route so we joined the parade down to the cloisters of Piazza Immacolata.

By now we had met up with our friends Trudi and Steve. We parked ourselves at a café directly opposite the stage, ordered a couple of drinks and settled in to enjoy some excellent lively music. Pablo Y Luna are from Italy but played music from around the world - we recognised Irish, Scottish, Balkan and some other distinctive styles we couldn't put a name to. 

Once Pablo Y La Luna had finished instead of vacating the stage they remained there and were joined by Lydia Koikocheva E Balkan Orkestra from Bulgaria and Italy for another accomplished and fun set. Even higher energy than the first band alone and they all looked like they were having way too much fun. Definitely the high spot of the evening.

Back to Piazza XX Septembre for the Barcelona Flamenco Company we missed earlier. This time we caught a decent chunk of their second performance.

We were heading back to the car when we came across Aly Keïta and Dobet Gnahoré in Piazza Roma from  the Ivory Coast playing some excellent African music. We stopped for a couple of songs and then carried on our way.

All in all an unexpectedly enjoyable evening with high quality musicianship. Will definitely watch out for this festival next year.

Fiera della Bomminella 2024

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. 7/8/9-September-2024.

Once a year we get a bonus market on the 8th of September, in addition to the usual Monday market. You can read the full backstory of this festival dating back to the 13th century in my write-up from Bomminella 2022.

This year Pro Loco Cisternino, the local tourist board, have gone all out and turned it into a three day celebration with events leading up to the fair on the 8th (Sunday).

Friday there were various events going on including the usual free jazz at Bar FOD. We booked ourselves a table to make sure of a seat but the start was delayed due to pizzica lessons taking place in the main square. However we then spent a very pleasant hour and a half with friends sipping our drinks and listening to two talented young musicians playing a number of jazz standards. 

Saturday night after dinner with friends we headed back to a stage by Porta Grande, opposite the mother church, to hear traditional Pizzica music and to watch the locals who knew all the steps and some tourists who danced with more gusto than technique.

Sunday was similar to our normal Monday market: I always have to park the car a couple of streets away the evening before as the market runs along both sections of Corso Umberto I and down via Regina Margarita. This is Corso Umberto on the Sunday outside our front door, from our terrace.

This is the view from our bedroom of Via Regina Margherita named after the wife of Umberto, King of Italy. She also gave her name to the Margherita pizza - tomato, mozzarella and basil for the colours of the Italian flag. 

Much of the market is similar to the normal Monday market with clothes, hats, handbags and homewares. One difference on Bomminella is down at the old market square where you can buy traditional wooden products: ladders, baskets, stools.

There were also a number of other stalls selling general homewares, lamps, fabrics, etc. They no longer sell livestock, cattle and sheep, but there was a pet stall where you could get a rabbit, a goldfish or a budgie plus all the pet paraphernalia you might need!

Ironmongery features in the street across from the old market square. Not normally used as part of the Monday market this street is an overflow where all the tool and agricultural hardware vendors can be found.

This guy was selling giant kebab skewers and all manner of hardware for industrial sized barbecues.

These curious devices are double ended, metal eggcups on a pole for harvesting prickly pear.

Back up into town, up Via Dante Alighieri, we passed this colourful display of artificial flowers in between all the usual clothes stalls.

This much-photographed stretch of Corso Umberto was full of craft stalls: hand made jewellery, artisanal objets d'art, and speciality foods.

Our section of Corso Umberto was partly taken up with food stalls instead of the usual socks and underwear. The pecorino truckles and local salami smelled amazing.

This year the local tourist board were promoting the festa with T-shirts advertising the Camino di Pecora (the way of the sheep) as mutton is a traditional dish on this day. The route on the back sponsored by nearly every bar and restaurant in town. Some locals were clearly making an effort to have a drink in as many as possible. We sat outside Birrosteria 72014 with our beers and watched the revellers.

We prudently booked at Lagravin directly below our apartment for supper as we knew it was going to be a busy night. What we didn’t realise was that the normal à la carte menu was off the cards. Instead, they were sensibly only offering a special Bomminella menu plus the usual pizza menu.

MENU' DELLA BOMMINELLA

• ORECCHIETTE WITH DONKEY CHOPS AND MEATBALLS €13.00
• TRIPE ROLLS €10.00
• SHEEP IN BROTH €12.00
• BEEF STEW €10.00
• BROAD BEANS WITH CHERRY TOMATOES AND ONION €12.00.

I had a pizza with picante salami and Gorgonzola which was delicious, the topping was fine and the base was excellent, thin and tasty. I often leave some crust but this time I ate it all! Mary went for a traditional dish of the day: orecchiette with donkey. 

After supper, we went for a passeggiata around the old town which was heaving with a number of roving Pizzica bands and their audiences.

We finished off the evening, as many Italians do, with an ice cream sitting by Porta Grande listening to a young man playing piano.

Bar FOD has the best ice cream in town and they do vegan ice cream that Mary can eat. She doesn’t like the wafer so I always win hers!

Then it was all over for another year.