Thursday, July 23, 2026

Baltic Tour 2026 - Pardubice

Pardubice, Czech. Wednesday/Thursday 15/16-July-2026

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After Budapest, the next stop on our tour was Pardubice in the Czech Republic. The original plan was to fly from Budapest to Gdansk because of the length of the journey. However I wasn't allowed to fly for 2 weeks so we switched to trains. This meant an additional stopover but where should we stop? Tipped off by a poster on the ever helpful FaceBook group "Interrailing for the older crowd" group, Pardubice was where we would change trains and sounded like an interesting place. It was a fantastic find, it is a charming small town with lots of history, a castle and many amazing old buildings. Another bit of serendipity!

Wednesday 15-July-2026.

We didn’t leave Budapest until after lunch heading to the Pardubice and the hotel Penzione Zelona Zaba which translates as Green Frog. It is a 20 minute walk from Pardubice main line station but a short change and a four minute train ride took us to Pardubice Centrum station only 5 minutes walk from the hotel!

We dumped the bags and went for a stroll to checkout the town and stopped in the delightful main square for a beer at Zalozna. The menu looked ok so we decide to eat there as well.

Next morning we had a brief wander round the town and admired the castle from the outside.

There we found found a suggested walking itinerary starting with a circuit of the rampart walls.

The peacocks on the ramparts were very tame and clearly expecting to be fed!

We didn’t have time to do the museum but had a wander round the courtyard.. 

Following the suggested walk we reached the “Automatic Mills”, an old flour mill that has been converted into a cultural and educational centre with workshops, exhibition space and a cafe.

The town centre was lined with lots of lovely buildings.

Pardubice’s town hall (Radnice) is a Neo-Renaissance structure built between 1893–1894 by architect Jan Weyrich.

The green gate is the entrance into the old town and apparently there are good views from the top but we decided to pass for the sake of our knees.

The local Catholic Church with typical very spiky spire.

After the walkabout we went back to the hotel to pick up our luggage and headed off for the next half of the trip to Gdansk.

Next stop: Gdansk / Malbork.

Tuesday, July 14, 2026

Baltic Tour 2026 - Budapest

Budapest, Hungary / Stuttgart, Germany. Wednesday/Thursday 11/14-July-2026.

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After back-to-back travel days this was our first multi-day stop to allow for full on tourist stuff.

Saturday 11-July-2026.

After parkrun and a shower in Graz we headed off to the main station for a five and a half hour train journey to Budapest.

We may have been in First Class but the air conditioning was not working and the windows were not openable so it made for a pretty steamy trip. Despite it being such a long journey, there was no buffet car so we couldn’t even get a drink or a sandwich. Luckily we had eaten lunch before we set off and had water with us  

We passed countless fields of sunflowers. It would seem to be a major crop, presumably to go into cooking oil and margarine manufacturing.

Our accommodation was in a Home Exchange apartment in a large block of flats with a huge central courtyard.

As it was was late, we went to a nearby bar, Guru Serhaz, that described itself as a bistro. Beer it had aplenty but the food was very basic pub grub. 

Dark beer for me, light for Mary.

From the very limited menu I had jalapeño poppers with chips and Mary had chicken wings with chips but we did get to sample several beers.

Sunday 12-July-2026.

Even the railway stations are fancy. This is Budapest-Keleti, the nearest main station to our apartment.

We wandered around Pest admiring the many fine buildings, many of them neoclassical from the late 1800s. So many that I can only feature a small selection. This is a grand hotel.

Even the manhole covers are fancy.

We saw these cute “gate guardians” protecting one doorway.

Down by the river there was a touching memorial: the Shoes on the Danube Bank in Budapest a powerful public art memorial featuring 60 pairs of 1940s-style iron footwear. It honours the predominantly Jewish victims executed on the banks of the river by Hungarian fascist militiamen towards the end of World War II.

St Stephen’s Church. Very, very ornate: unsurprising as is named in honour of Stephen, the first King of Hungary (c. 975–1038), whose right hand is housed in the reliquary. Interestingly the dome was supposed to be decorated with paintings but they used mosaics instead - see the detail in the bottom right hand picture.

That evening we went out for a very classy meal at A Kert Bisztro. A marked contrast to the previous evening’s meal!

The food was great and the prices were reasonable but the wine prices were exorbitant and were per decilitre (100cc) which meant double for a sensible sized glass.

Our nightcap was in the New Palm Cafe and Pub just along our street.

Monday 13-July-2026.

We spent the morning exploring Buda on the West Bank of the Danube. This is the castle hill as seen from Pest across the river.

First stop was the Buda Tower, all that remains of the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene, where we climbed the tower, lots of stairs in a narrow and hot spiral staircase. At the top we were rewarded with stunning views.

Top - National Archives, middle - the tower, bottom - Parliament.

We walked along the backstreets to end up at Fisherman’s Bastion with great views over the city.

Statue of King Stephen 1st founder of Hungary at Fisherman’s Bastion.

We walked down to the tram line and took it along the banks of the Danube to the Market Hall. This large building downstairs had colourful displays of fresh produce, upstairs had fast food stalls and tourist tat.

We went to the food stalls and making a mistake with the currency conversion we bought an oversized lunch, so large it did us for supper as well. 

Late afternoon we went for a short river cruise seeing again from the river some of the buildings we had seen on land. The parliament building:

The cruise included an audio guide you could download to your phone. Mary had left her phone on charge at the apartment so we shared my earbuds - one ear each.

After a supper of our Market Hall lunch reheated we went out to Amigo, a local rockabilly themed bar for our nightcap. Instead of a beer I fancied some red wine. I received a generous sized glass of average wine that may have been open for some time. Next time I’ll stick to beer.

Tuesday 14-July-2026.

Given our support for the Carlisle Victorian and Turkish Baths we had to check out the thermal baths of which there are several in Budapest. We spent the morning at Szechenyi Thermal Baths

This gives an idea of the extent of the baths with multiple pools and saunas to choose from:

We went back to the apartment for a bit of relax and then out to a wine tasting at Bortodoor City followed by a meal at Kata

The wine tasting was meant to be two hours but overran by half an hour thanks to our enthusiastic and knowledgeable host “Smike”. We know nothing about Hungarian grapes and this delivered exactly what we wanted: a history of Hungarian wines, and introduction to the local grape varieties and tastings of sparkling, through white, rosè and reds. I even got a bonus sip of Tokai. 

The restaurant was fortunately only three minutes walk away so we were only slight late. We had spotted this restaurant previously as it promised a gluten and lactose free menu. The food was excellent.

No nightcap today as we were knackered and needed an early night for a prompt start for the next leg of the journey on the morrow.

Next stop: Pardubice.

Hungarian Wine Tasting

Bortodoor City Wine Bar, Budapest, Hungary. Tuesday 14-July-2026.

A new country and a new set of grape varieties to learn about. So of course we had to book ourselves a wine tasting. We know nothing about Hungarian grapes and this delivered exactly what we wanted: a history of Hungarian wines, and introduction to the local grape varieties and tastings for sparkling, through white, rosè and reds. I even got a bonus sip of Tokai. Our host went by the nickname “Smike”, an American who has lived in Budapest for 17 years and is very knowledgeable and enthusiastic.

1. Beres Holdezust Habzobor Brut.

A glass of sparkling to welcome us and the first of the tasting to sip whilst we got the background to the Hungarian wine industry.

Geology: The north of the country is volcanic soils in the Carpathian mountains created by upheaval 13-15 million years ago. The south of the country has soils more Burgundian in character.

History: vineyards have been here for millennia. There was some disruption caused by the two world wars but the biggest impact was the Soviet Occupation. The authorities demanded that all vineyards across the country were to be over-planted with one of several new workhorse varietal strains developed for quantity and robustness. Two areas exempt were Tokaj and Nagy-Somlo. It was only after the end of the occupation that vignerons were able to replant local varieties better suited to their individual areas. Now those vines of an age that they are reaching their full potential.yeah, I think so

The tasting was accompanied by small platter of nibbles.  

Vinified in stainless steel. It was very pleasant and a fair match for any other nations sparking wine.

2. Harasztry Sir Irsal white 2025.

Made from a vine cross developed in the 1930s it traditionally smells of elderflowers. It is very popular with the Hungarians predominantly drunk as a spritz.

A bit too tart for my liking but I can see that it might work as a long drink.

3. Hercegkut Furmint Dry 2024 Tokaji.

A dry white from an area more famous for its dessert wines. This was described as having minerality and good aging potential. Vinified in stainless steel then aged in French oak barrels.

We got more tips on bluffing in wine: not just what fruit you are getting but what ripeness. So if it is apples are they tart / unripe / warm / baked; if cherry is it sweet dessert or tart morello.

4. Dubicz, Sarhegy Oalszrizling 2023.

Not a reisling despite the name. From the Matra region. I got kiwi and pea pod on the nose. Very pleasant.

5. Sauska Siller Villany 2025.

A peculiarity of Hungarian wine production known as “bleed the must”. After two days of skin contact half the must is removed to make a dark rosé known as Siller. The remaining 50% must is left on on the skins to produce a hyper-red wine. Interesting. I prefer a darker rosé so this was lovely. Maybe it was autosuggestion based on the colour but this had distinct strawberry notes on the palate. The presenter opined that it had some malolactic fermentation to add to the flavour.

6. Vesztergombi Kardaka Szekszard.

A pinot noir like grape grown as bush vines from the Kunsag region whose sandy soils enabled it to escape the ravages of phylloxera. Is is a cooler area where they need to used smudge pots - braziers that help keep the frosts at bay.

7. Kekfrankos Tuzko Birtok 2022

The kekfrankos grapes contributes the biggest percentage found in Bulls Blood. Smoky blueberry nose with tertiary notes of tabacco and cedar. When the assembled company were asked what food they’d pair it with Mary proposed cassoulet and I suggested smoked duck with cherry sauce. Turns out that our host always paired it with duck. Result!

8. Koch Villany Cabernet Franc Vedett Eredetu Villany Classicus 2020.

Oaked with dark fruit flavours. It had a “Top 12” sticker on it which signifies that in a nationwide blind tasting it was adjudged one of the the top twelve Hungarian wines.

9. Tokaj. 

I had been discussing dessert wines so Smike gave me a small tasting of a Tokaj. It was delicious and far better than I remember from my previous tastings of Tokaj.

A great tasting with lots banter. Then a short stroll to our restaurant for supper.

Saturday, July 11, 2026

Baltic Tour 2026 - Graz

Graz, Austria, Friday/Saturday 10/11-July-2026.

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The third day of back-to-back travel in order to pick up our original route at Graz. The reason for visiting Graz was a parkrun.

Friday 10-July-2026.

The trip from Stuttgart to Graz was smooth, uneventful and on time. We forgot to take the platform station sign so improvised with this.

We passed through some beautiful scenery with mountains in the distance.

After a quick change we headed straight out for supper, preceded by the essential beer. Although it was only an overnight in Graz it was long enough to appreciate the buildings and find the brauhaus, Glöckl Bräu, recommended by the hotel.

Graz city centre.

A weisse beer and a dunkel lager. 

The restaurant was offering cevapcici which we first tasted and loved in Vienna so it was an easy menu choice. Normally served with potatoes but we went for the healthy option and had salad.

After supper we went for a stroll around town and caught the sunset over the river Mur.

Heading back to our hotel in search of a bar for a nightcap we serendipitously stumbled across this DJ spinning vinyl in the garden of the Volkskunde museum which was a lovely way to finish the evening.

Saturday 11-July-2026.

Stadtpark, Graz 23/05/26 31:10 [55/75] 

Saturday morning was parkrun / park walk just three minutes walk from the hotel, and afterwards a chat with new parkrun friends, Oliver and Stephanie, in a local cafe.

The course is distinctly bird shaped which is why the sign has a little duck perched on it!

After a shower back at the hotel we had a lunch of sashimi at nearby Subarashii and then it was time to head to the train station for the next leg of our journey.

Next stop: Budapest