Tuesday, September 30, 2025

Antiques and Food Markets in Puglia

“When is the market in such-and-such town?” is an FAQ that crops up regularly on Facebook expats groups. And this is my answer:

Antique Markets

Antique markets are always held on Sunday morning starting around 10.00. 

1st Sunday of the month: 

  • Grottaglie
  • Nardo
  • San Vito dei Normanni (Exfadda)
  • Bari Vecchia (also Saturday)

2nd Sunday of the month: 

  • Monopoli
  • Ostuni

3rd Sunday of the month: 

  • Martina Franca
  • Cisternino
  • Mesagne
  • Galatina

Last sunday of the month: 

  • Ceglie Messapica
  • Lecce (always last Sunday)
  • Francavilla Fontana 

Market days
(fruit and veg, clothes, shoes, homewares, etc.)


Monday: 

  • Cisternino
  • San Vito dei Normanni
  • Lecce
  • Vieste
  • Andria

Tuesday: 

  • Noci
  • Carovigno
  • Monopoli
  • Bisceglie 

Wednesday: 

  • Martina Franca
  • Fasano
  • Otranto
  • Gallipoli

Thursday: 

  • Alberobello
  • Brindisi
  • Polignano a Mare
  • Porto Cesareo

Friday: 

  • Locorotondo
  • Fasano
  • Lecce (again)
  • Conversano 

Saturday: 

  • Ostuni
  • Francavilla Fontana
  • Castellana Grotte
  • Barletta
  • Terlizzi

Sunday:

  • Savelletri .

Feel free to let me know of any errors or omissions in the comments but this is the list I have.

Friday, September 26, 2025

Friday Night is Music Night

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. September-2025. 

One of the things I like about Cisternino is the amount of live music mostly free. For the last four weeks we have had live jazz on a Friday night courtesy of Bar Fod interspersed with one evening of classical guitar thanks to the Valle D’Itria Guitar Festival.

Bar Fod used to put on a series of Sunday lunchtime concerts in the summer but they were proving a little too hot for the performers. Instead, they switched to Friday evening jazz concerts.

Friday 05-September.

We booked a table and met up with friends for the first of the September concerts following our return from the UK. An excellent pair of musicians - we spent an enjoyable and relaxing hour and a half sipping our wine and being entertained with some cool jazz. 

Claudio Chiarelli /sax
Aldo Di Paolo / piano.

I liked the keyboardist’s shirt clearly inspired by Mondrian with added cats.

Friday 12-September.

The following Friday we had a collection of jazz standards from a lady with a very pleasant voice although we did agree she had a somewhat narrow dynamic range.

Serena Grittani /vocal
Bruno Montrone / piano

Friday, 19 September.

This concert was part of the Valle D’Itria Guitar Festival, mostly held in Martina Franca but this particular concert was in Cisternino. The venue was the evocative Chiesa di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli (aka The church with the skull and crossbones). 

Giovanni Masi / Chitarra.

An award-winning young guitarist, his fingers were flying all over the fretboard. The acoustics in the church were great for such a small intimate concert.

Programma

  • N. Paganini (1782.-1840) 
    • Dalle 37 Sonate per chitarra: Sonata n. 16 - Sonata n. 33
  • M. Castelnuovo-Tedesco (1895-1968) 
    • Capriccio diabolico (Omaggio a Paganini), op. 85
  • G. Sanz (1640-17109 / M. Castelnuovo-Tedesco 
    • Suite Española di Sanz Espanoleta - Gallarda - Villano
    • Escarraman, op. 177 di Castelnuovo-Tedesco "Pesame dello amor..." Danza de las Hachas Rujero y Paradetas
    • Zarabanda al Ayre Español El Rey Don Alfonso el Bueno Canario
  • M. Castelnuovo-Tedesco 
    • Caprichos de Goya, op. 195: No hubo remedio
  • E. Morricone (1928-2020) 
    • Quattro pezzi per chitarra sola: Calmo - Poco più - Andantino - Meno 
    • Nuovo Cinema Paradiso: Prima gioventu
    • Quattro pezzi per chitarra sola Western Suite: IV. Adagio molto.

Friday, 26 September.

The final concert in the series and, by general consensus, the best in terms of quality of the musicianship. They clearly had great rapport and were enjoying themselves. They played two encores at the insistence of the crowd.

Alberto Di Leone / tromba
Antonio Laviero / piano.

Footnote: the title of this blog is a nod to the world's longest-running, live, orchestral music, radio programme on the BBC Friday Night is Music Night .

Thursday, September 25, 2025

Everyday Differences in Puglia: Pomodori Al Filo

Puglia Differences: an occasional series on things that strike this Brit as so very Italian. 

The pomodori al filo (tomatoes on the string) also called pomodori eterni (everlasting tomatoes) are a Salento method of preserving tomato as an alternative to sun-dried tomatoes or passata (see Everyday differences in Puglia: Tomato Bottling). In this method bunches of tomatoes are braided on strings of twine to be hung in cool, dry places. These are usually local varieties such as the Giallo d'Inverno tomato or the Regina tomato, which lend themselves to preservation. This practice allows you to have tomatoes available throughout the winter.

I first learnt about the pomodori al filo from our friend Mino the chef when he appeared on Rick Stein’s Mediterranean Escapes (2007)

In that segment he cooked the traditional orecchietti con cime di rape but his version of the recipe included these pomodori al filo. These are available in a number of the shops around us so we can replicate Mino‘s version.

Sunday, September 07, 2025

Bomminella 2025

Cisternino, Puglia, Italy. Saturday/Monday 06/08-September-2025.

In addition to the usual Monday market, once a year we get a bonus market called Bomminella held on the 8th of September. An ancient market originally specialising in agricultural equipment and dating back to the 13th century. It was originally held just outside Porta Piccolo, where Via la Fiera now runs literally under our apartment.

The local tourist board Pro Loco di Cisternino, put on a full timetable leading up to, and including, Bomminella. 

Saturday 06-September.

On the Saturday we went to hear some interesting talks about various aspects of the event including an exhibition of tambourines - a simple peasant instrument often played when dancing the Pizzica. The photographer caught my bald patch nicely.

After the talks we walked round to a photography exhibition in the Torre Grande. Thanks to Mary's distinctive white hair several friends spotted us on the Pro Loco social media.

Turning the black sheep idiom on its head - Be Different!

Sunday 07-September.

Sunday was a market day featuring the normal Monday stalls (clothing, homewares, etc.) but without the fruit and veg. We missed some of the events as they clashed with mealtimes but we could hear and see the music and dancing from our terrace.

Monday 08-September.

On a normal market day, we have clothing stalls outside our front door but for Bomminella their place is taken by a cheese and salami stall.

Down in the old marketplace, where the veg market used to be before Covid moved it down to Piazza dei Navigatori, we get wooden artefacts. Those boards in the picture are special pasta making boards that have a lip which fits over the worktop edge so that, when you are working the dough, the board doesn't slide away from you.

Lots of locally made wicker baskets.

Across from the old veg market is a street and carpark that is normally empty but for this occasion is full of hardware stalls.

Not so much agricultural but more barbecue equipment.

More hardware including, in the foreground, the special prickly pear harvesting gadgets. Like a metal diabolo they are mounted on a pole to pick the fruits.

There was one guy selling real agricultural equipment! A wine press and a harrow.

Down in the vegetable market you can tell that it is melon and pumpkin season - fruit by the pallet-load.

Throughout the day there is music and dancing the Pizzica in the streets.

The Pro Loco Cisternino in Valle d'Itria promoted a t-shirt “Il Cammino Della Pecora” (The Way of the Sheep) with a selection of bars and restaurants on the back with tick boxes to record your pub crawl. The motto “One day, one flock, one walk”. 

The atmosphere is wonderful, with a constant buzz of happy voices and everyone is very friendly. Several people were impressed by us taking part in the pub crawl as we were clearly not native to the town. In truth some of our stops were for coffee or soft drinks so not as bad as it looks!

That evening we dined at Osteria Piatti Chiari which, like many restaurants in town, were offering a traditional Bomminella menu including tripe and a sheep stew made with the scraggiest bits of the animal. Fortunately other options were available.

A historic event and great fun.

Previous Bomminella: [2024], [2022].

Monday, September 01, 2025

BBC Prom 2025: Shostakovich’s Lady Macbeth

Royal Albert Hall, London. Monday 01-September-2025.

Our flight back to Italy was early afternoon on the 2nd September. We were coming down from Penrith by train and decided to avoid any risk of delays and missed flights by travelling the day before. That gave us a free evening in London so Mary booked us tickets for the Proms.

We decided to treat ourselves to the Paddington Hilton so we would have an easy trip to Heathrow on the Paddington Express the next morning.

This hotel was formerly the Great Western Royal Hotel for GWR as evidenced by the tiles in front of the entrance.

The route from the hotel to the Royal Albert Hall took us on a lovely stroll through Hyde Park.

We encountered a Rolls Royce ice cream van but didn't stop for an ice cream as it was closed (boo!)

At the Royal Albert Hall this version of Shostakovich’s “The Lady Macbeth of the Mtsensk District” was a semi staged production. So not a full blown opera version but the singers did move about the stage with various props arrayed and acted out the story rather than simply stand there and sing. A piece we knew nothing about so it was bound to be a surprise.

We had good seats in one of the Loggia boxes in line with the front of the stage and the promenaders at the front of the arena. We booked ourselves some in-house catering: the vegan tapas selection washed down with a couple of glass of white wine. The plot is right out of EastEnders with infidelity, rape, a couple of murders and a double murder / suicide to finish off with!

The Guardian gave it four stars and wrote: "With Nicky Spence and Amanda Majeski the striking leads, the nastiness in Shostakovich’s ‘tragic satire’ was disturbing and powerful in an impressive Proms performance. [...] nothing was more striking or disturbing than the interaction between Spence’s Sergey and Amanda Majeski’s Katerina: the former heroically clarion even while dramatically faithless, the latter a terrifyingly lyrical portrait of a woman “so bored I could hang myself” - or, as it turns out, commit murder.." [Full review].

On the way back to the hotel we passed a cocktail bar, Amaro, and popped in for a tasty but expensive nightcap.

Well that was a fun evening!

The next morning we wandered out for a breakfast shakshouka at Hayat, supporting locals rather than pay for an overpriced Hilton breakfast. On the way back to pick up our luggage we passed this lovely statue: "Wild Table of Love".

We also saw this encouraging sign, "Drinking Rum before 10am makes you a Pirate not an Alcoholic"!

After that it was back to the hotel to collect our luggage and head off to Heathrow for the flight back to Italy.