Saturday, May 09, 2026

Sicilian wine tasting with snacks

Palermo, Sicily, Italy. Saturday, 10 May 2026.

We booked this excellent food and wine pairing at Bottega Monteleone through Get My Guide. I can do no better than quote Mary’s review:

"We booked for their wine tasting with food and loved it, would definitely recommend to others. A great opportunity to try some unfamiliar wines and local food. 
We could not have asked for better - our waiter was friendly and very knowledgeable, telling us all about each wine and the food before we tasted them and in perfect English. 
The selection of wines was interesting, representing some of the range produced locally (one each of sparkling, white, rose, red and sweet) and we liked them all. The food pairings worked well and they were very good at adapting to cater for my lactose intolerance. 
As other people have noted, wine portions were generous, allowing to taste the wine without and with the food and still have plenty to savour. The five food tastings were equivalent to a light meal. 
We were sat a table with a lovely couple and were not rushed in any way making for a very enjoyable evening. A place to go back to - so many more wines to try!"

1. Sparkling: Coppola - Spumante Extra Brut Grillo "71". 12%.

The Grillo grape is typically Sicilian. According to Wikipedia: "Grillo, also known as Riddu and Rossese bianco, is a white Italian wine grape variety that withstands high temperatures and is widely used in Sicilian winemaking and, in particular, for making Marsala. Its origins are uncertain, but it may have been introduced into the island of Sicily from Apulia".

We had a Grillo as a still wine on our first evening in Palermo and were impressed by the exotic, floral notes so much so that we had the same the following evening with our meal. I was pleased to see it here again in the sparkling version, delicious and not too dry.

Matched with a pasta salad: fusilli with a tomato sauce.

2. White: Cantina Patria - Etna Bianco DOC Sensi. 13%

The Etna Bianco is, obviously, grown on Etna’s volcanic slopes at 750 meters above sea level. 80% Carricante and 20% Catarratto. Light and refreshing, we got the expected spiel about minerality!

Matched with crostini: one with tapenade, the other with a soft ricotta topped with an anchovy fillet and lemon zest - the latter really lifting the flavours. 

3. Rosé: Terre di Gratia - Dama Rosa. 12%

The rosato grape variety: 100% Perricone (also known as Pignatello). 

Paired with pecorino cheese (sorry, forgot to photo) of three different agings: a soft pecorino, one with a few months aging and the third a tangy version aged for 12 months. Fascinating to taste the evolution.

4. Red: Quattrocieli - Jocu Nero d’Avola. 12.5%.

Another Sicilian varietal, Nero D'Avola is named after the town of Avola in the south-east of the island. Delicious, not too heavy and with scarcely a trace of tannins.

Paired with assorted salumeria: a parma style ham, a soft salami and a mortadella.

5. Sweet: Tenuta delle Palme - Zibibbo Terre Siciliana. 16%

This vino liquoroso was delicious - I do like Italian desert wines. The Zibibbo grape, also known as Muscat of Alexandria, is an ancient grape variety. They believe that this grape it is one of the oldest genetically unmodified vines still in existence. The grape originated in North Africa, and the name is probably derived from its association with Ancient Egyptians who used the grape for wine making. 

It is used in one of my favourite dessert wines, Pantelleria from the island of the same name just off the coast of Sicily. 

The biscuits look a bit like cantucci but are softer and are apparently made using stale bread so nothing goes to waste!

It was an excellent introduction to Sicilian varietals.

Looking at their blackboard menu, as Mary said, so many more to try.

Saturday, May 02, 2026

Palazzo Lagravinese, Cisternino

Via La Fiera, Cisternino, Puglia.

We live next door to the Palazzo Gravinese: "A private noble residence from the late 18th century, recognised as being of historical and artistic interest, it was purchased by the Municipality of Cisternino in 2011 and restored to become a museum".

Over the years the plaque to the right of the entrance telling the story of the Lagrvinese family had become weathered and faded. Last year (May 2025) from our terrace we saw woman there for the better part of a week painstakingly cleaning and repainting the engraving.

"Conservative and aesthetic restoration of the writings on the plaque placed on the facade of the Palazzo Lagravinese in Via La Fiera" according to the notice on the scaffolding. 

Work complete.

The restored plaque.

In this ancient palace the siblings of the esteemed Lagravinese family opened themselves to the light and noble ideals of life:

Nicola (1883 - 1971)
Head surgeon of international fame he always worked with a spirit of christian charity in the service of man and in defence of life;

Pasquale (1884 - 1963)
Lawyer, speaker and writer, eloquent
Refined and witty known for his honesty and wise humanity;

Giovanni (1895 - 1927)
Passionate culturalist of socio-economic studies of Puglia
A generous heart that illuminated with goodness the skies of his youth;

The Misses Maria and Rita
Delicate and sensitive souls lived in the cult of beauty art and poetry

The people of Cisternino
In memory
Placed
August 1985.

We regularly see educational tour groups, both school children and adults, gathered round the plaque having the history and significance explained to them.

Friday, May 01, 2026

International Jazz Week 2026

Ciseternino, Puglia, Italy.  Friday 01-May-2026.

We only learnt about International Jazz Week last year. In 2011 UNESCO declared 30th April to be International Jazz Day to "celebrate the power of jazz as a force for peace, dialogue and mutual understanding". In our area they celebrate with a month or more of jazz concerts confusingly called International Jazz Week. 

This year we nearly missed it but spotted a poster in time to catch the Cisternino gig on May Day featuring the Itria Jazz Ensemble, courtesy of Jazz Friends Associazione Culturale.

Handily it was literally in our street. Over an hour of excellent jazz with not too much speechifying from the maestro.

As you can see by the coats and scarves it was a cool evening. It was early evening so we were treated to the "golden hour" lighting up on our local church of San Cataldo.

As we were stranding next to the local wine bar, Vineria del Borgo, we thought it would churlish not to support them.

After the main concert the youth band had a turn.

Having stood outside for long enough, we retreated home for a pasta supper and some warmth. 

Must make a note in the diary for next year!