Monday, July 29, 2024

Grand Tour 2024 - Konstanz

Konstanz, Germany. Wednesday/Wednesday 10/17-July-2024.

Table of Contents:

Wednesday 10: Train. Mary nearly forgot to take the train station photo! We had to jump off the train and act quickly so no time to take several shots so this will have to do.

On the journey from Vienna to Konstanz we started to see real mountains, usually with large flat plains full of crops at their foothills. I was surprised to see such flatness as I didn't think glaciation had got this far south but Wikipedia set me straight.

Our home exchange apartment was gorgeous: light, airy and modern. It was across the Rhine from the old town with Lake Constance literally at the bottom of the street and only half a dozen tram stops into the centre. The area was so very neat and tidy and affluent looking; it had a very Swiss vibe to it.

Thursday 11: Part of the rationale behind spending longer in each city was that we could relax and sit about and not have to be the hectic tourist constantly rushing about. We spent the morning at the apartment, had lunch and then wandered into town along the scenic lakeside path. It was a warm day so lots of people were out enjoying the sunshine by the lake.

Konstanz was never bombed in the war as it was so close to the Swiss border. This means the town centre is full of interesting old buildings. The two on the left date from 1270!

As in other countries, we spotted lots of signs advertising the wares of the shop, pub or inn.

Following a recommendation from our host, we had a traditional supper at Constanzer Wirthaus, on their terrace right beside the Rhine and watched the river flow and swimmers and boats of all types. We enjoyed the setting, food and beer so much we booked there again for our last night.

Friday 12: More relaxing at the apartment, then after lunch we wandered into town for some light shopping and an early supper at Brauhaus "Joh. Albrecht" which we picked at random. Food was ok but unfortunately the beer was not.

Like Vienna, Konstanz also had a summer festival so we saw two excellent concerts in the same hall. First was classical with Schostakowitsch, Federic Bolli (the composer himself was present) and Tschaikowsi. Performed by the Südwestdeutsche Philharmonie Konstanz and some amazing soloists, especially the violinist.

  • Dmitri Schostakowitsch, Cellokonzert Nr. 1 Es-Dur op. 107
  • Frédéric Bolli, Klavier Hände Konzert
  • Peter Tschaikowski, Violinkonzert D-Dur op. 35
  • Leitung: Claudio Novati
  • Alexey Stadler Violoncello
  • Herbert Schuch | Gülru Ensari Klavier
  • loana Cristina Goicea Violine, 

Saturday 13: Saturday is always parkrun day. This week it was the lovely, if slightly damp, Hockgraben parkrun. Two flat laps around tarmac and gravel paths. Great bunch of volunteers as always. Small crowd, only 35 of us in total. Mary had a nice chat with Wolfgang, the Tailwalker, who had lived in Naples at one time so they conversed partly in Italian and partly in English!

Afterwards we had a lovely brunch at Schuler's on the recommendation of our host.

Back at the apartment we had a late shower and a relax before heading back into town for a light snack at Glöckle an excellent wine bar in Konstanz centre offering many wines by the glass. 

We shared a couple of flammkucken, a regional speciality:


Then our second cultural event in two days, a jazz / soul concert performed by an excellent two-piece comprising Karl Frierson on vocals and percussion, and Peter Vogel on piano. They performed a number of pop ballads in a smooth jazz style: Sledgehammer, I can't stand the rain, Isn't she lovely, Billie Jean, Summertime. All very relaxing and enjoyable. 

Coming out of the concert hall we saw our bus heading off down the street so to complete the relaxation we went to Glöckle for another glass of wine whilst waiting for the next bus.

Sunday 14: We walked up to Mainau island (aka flower island). So much to see and we loved the jokey beds such as the peacock and ducks.

Mary just had to swim in the lake. It must not have been too chilly as she was in there for half an hour.

We passed this lovely building almost daily and only after several days spotted the dragon on the underside of the balcony.

Monday 15: Lake Constance cruise.

We did a boat trip around the top part of Lake Constance coloured dark blue. We could have got off at every stop but limited ourselves to just two.

We went to Unteruhldingen to see the reconstruction of the prehistoric villages on stilts that I learnt about in my teens. Over half a century later I get to see the reconstructions in real life. Plus a fascinating, newly-opened museum giving insights into why they were built and how people lived plus amazing exhibits from around 4000 - 1000 BC found preserved in the mud.

It is one of the “Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps” which have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is comprised of 111 sites in six countries – France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Italy. 

Having sailed up to Uberlingen and back, our second disembark was Meersburg with imposing old and new castles and other fine buildings.

We wandered round the town admiring the buildings and climbed up to see the castles. This is the old Castle. The tower on the right seems to be in a state of shock.

We managed to fit in a wine tasting at the state winery, tasting Muller Thurgau, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Riesling won!

Tuesday 16: We had a day of relaxation and in the evening walked to Hohenegg restaurant that we had spotted on the walk to the flower island.  Next door to the Ruppaner brewery whose beer we had tasted and liked - 0km beer!

Wednesday 17: We transferred to the IBIS budget in Konstanz and walked all the way from the apartment to the hotel which might have been a mistake as we were distinctly warm by the time we got there.

That evening we had supper on the riverside terrace at Constanzer Wirthaus washed down with some their own beers.

Next stop: Freiburg im Breisgau

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