Monday, July 29, 2024

Grand Tour 2024 - Konstanz

Konstanz, Germany. Wednesday/Wednesday 10/17-July-2024.

Table of Contents:

Wednesday 10: Train. Mary nearly forgot to take the train station photo! We had to jump off the train and act quickly so no time to take several shots so this will have to do.

On the journey from Vienna to Konstanz we started to see real mountains, usually with large flat plains full of crops at their foothills. I was surprised to see such flatness as I didn't think glaciation had got this far south but Wikipedia set me straight.

Our home exchange apartment was gorgeous: light, airy and modern. It was across the Rhine from the old town with Lake Constance literally at the bottom of the street and only half a dozen tram stops into the centre. The area was so very neat and tidy and affluent looking; it had a very Swiss vibe to it.

Thursday 11: Part of the rationale behind spending longer in each city was that we could relax and sit about and not have to be the hectic tourist constantly rushing about. We spent the morning at the apartment, had lunch and then wandered into town along the scenic lakeside path. It was a warm day so lots of people were out enjoying the sunshine by the lake.

Konstanz was never bombed in the war as it was so close to the Swiss border. This means the town centre is full of interesting old buildings. The two on the left date from 1270!

As in other countries, we spotted lots of signs advertising the wares of the shop, pub or inn.

Following a recommendation from our host, we had a traditional supper at Constanzer Wirthaus, on their terrace right beside the Rhine and watched the river flow and swimmers and boats of all types. We enjoyed the setting, food and beer so much we booked there again for our last night.

Friday 12: More relaxing at the apartment, then after lunch we wandered into town for some light shopping and an early supper at Brauhaus "Joh. Albrecht" which we picked at random. Food was ok but unfortunately the beer was not.

Like Vienna, Konstanz also had a summer festival so we saw two excellent concerts in the same hall. First was classical with Schostakowitsch, Federic Bolli (the composer himself was present) and Tschaikowsi. Performed by the Südwestdeutsche Philharmonie Konstanz and some amazing soloists, especially the violinist.

  • Dmitri Schostakowitsch, Cellokonzert Nr. 1 Es-Dur op. 107
  • Frédéric Bolli, Klavier Hände Konzert
  • Peter Tschaikowski, Violinkonzert D-Dur op. 35
  • Leitung: Claudio Novati
  • Alexey Stadler Violoncello
  • Herbert Schuch | Gülru Ensari Klavier
  • loana Cristina Goicea Violine, 

Saturday 13: Saturday is always parkrun day. This week it was the lovely, if slightly damp, Hockgraben parkrun. Two flat laps around tarmac and gravel paths. Great bunch of volunteers as always. Small crowd, only 35 of us in total. Mary had a nice chat with Wolfgang, the Tailwalker, who had lived in Naples at one time so they conversed partly in Italian and partly in English!

Afterwards we had a lovely brunch at Schuler's on the recommendation of our host.

Back at the apartment we had a late shower and a relax before heading back into town for a light snack at Glöckle an excellent wine bar in Konstanz centre offering many wines by the glass. 

We shared a couple of flammkucken, a regional speciality:


Then our second cultural event in two days, a jazz / soul concert performed by an excellent two-piece comprising Karl Frierson on vocals and percussion, and Peter Vogel on piano. They performed a number of pop ballads in a smooth jazz style: Sledgehammer, I can't stand the rain, Isn't she lovely, Billie Jean, Summertime. All very relaxing and enjoyable. 

Coming out of the concert hall we saw our bus heading off down the street so to complete the relaxation we went to Glöckle for another glass of wine whilst waiting for the next bus.

Sunday 14: We walked up to Mainau island (aka flower island). So much to see and we loved the jokey beds such as the peacock and ducks.

Mary just had to swim in the lake. It must not have been too chilly as she was in there for half an hour.

We passed this lovely building almost daily and only after several days spotted the dragon on the underside of the balcony.

Monday 15: Lake Constance cruise.

We did a boat trip around the top part of Lake Constance coloured dark blue. We could have got off at every stop but limited ourselves to just two.

We went to Unteruhldingen to see the reconstruction of the prehistoric villages on stilts that I learnt about in my teens. Over half a century later I get to see the reconstructions in real life. Plus a fascinating, newly-opened museum giving insights into why they were built and how people lived plus amazing exhibits from around 4000 - 1000 BC found preserved in the mud.

It is one of the “Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps” which have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is comprised of 111 sites in six countries – France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Italy. 

Having sailed up to Uberlingen and back, our second disembark was Meersburg with imposing old and new castles and other fine buildings.

We wandered round the town admiring the buildings and climbed up to see the castles. This is the old Castle. The tower on the right seems to be in a state of shock.

We managed to fit in a wine tasting at the state winery, tasting Muller Thurgau, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Riesling won!

Tuesday 16: We had a day of relaxation and in the evening walked to Hohenegg restaurant that we had spotted on the walk to the flower island.  Next door to the Ruppaner brewery whose beer we had tasted and liked - 0km beer!

Wednesday 17: We transferred to the IBIS budget in Konstanz and walked all the way from the apartment to the hotel which might have been a mistake as we were distinctly warm by the time we got there.

That evening we had supper on the riverside terrace at Constanzer Wirthaus washed down with some their own beers.

Next stop: Freiburg im Breisgau

Monday, July 22, 2024

Grand Tour 2024 - Vienna

Vienna, Austria. Wednesday/Wednesday 03/09-July-2024.

Table of Contents:

Wednesday 03: From Florence to Vienna is a long trip so we decided to go with the NightJet sleeper. It costs about the same as a night in a hotel but, for me, a novel experience. OK, I have done the Orient Express and Rovos Rail but they don't really count as they re the luxury version, this is more typical. 

The first part of the trip was a normal train from Florence to Venice Santa Lucia where we had time for a quick shared pizza at Rossopomodoro before we boarded the train. I got the top bunk as the more agile of the two of us. There were straps and a net for the nervous or restless sleeper but I grew up with bunk beds as a child so they held no terrors for me.

In anticipation of a poor nights sleep we packed a couple of small bottles of wine to act as a soporific. The stewardess then surprised us with a couple of small bottles of sparkling wine so snoring was assured. 

We pre-ordered our breakfast the night before and were woken up by the stewardess in plenty of time to come to and eat it. 

We headed to the apartment to dump our bags and have a belated shower. Then spent the morning exploring, just wandering around the city centre. 

The apartment was a little out of the centre, more like residential suburbs, and unfortunately the nearest train station was closed for major engineering works. That meant we had a longer walk to the nearest bus stop to get into the city.  Neither Google maps nor CityMapper knew about the closure and kept trying to send us on impossible journeys. After a couple of days we sussed out the bus alternatives and things went more smoothly.

That evening we walked 20 minutes to the nearby The Bell Pub for a very Austrian supper of ćevapčići (small minced meat kebabs) and potato salad. A new dish to us but very tasty and apparently traditional in the countries of southeast Europe (the Balkans) and also considered a national dish of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia.

Thursday 04: Next day we headed to Karlsplatz for the fascinating Wein Museum as recommended by our hosts. It gave us a brilliant introduction to the pre-history, history and culture of Vienna. Afterwards we had lunch in the lovely art deco cafe opposite the Otto Wagner wing of the museum. 

We were also fortunate to be in Vienna during the time of the open-air Kulter-sommer Festival and to see two excellent bands both of whom performed in the park in the next street to our apartment. 

Joe Traxler (Thursday):

Friday 05: Second day was a trip to the Albertina art museum to see the Roy Liechtenstein exhibition that I had missed in the UK. My Dad took me took see a Liechtenstein exhibition at the Tate in 1968 which was just brilliant. I love his stuff. He lived until 1997 so there was nearly three decades worth of new stuff to see. It was fascinating to see where his themes and inspirations took him subsequently. One item I loved was a scrapbook of comic book images that show exactly where he got his inspiration.

An unexpected bonus was the extraordinary Batliner collection with never-before-seen (by us) paintings by Picasso, Monet, etc, etc. "The Batliner Collection forms the core of the museum’s permanent exhibit with around 500 works that span an arc covering the most fascinating chapters from 130 years of art history, from French impressionism to the present" 

After the museum visit we walked round the Schloss Belvedere botanical and formal gardens. It is massive and it was easy to spend a couple of hours there.

By then we were ready for lunch at Cafe Morris to fortify ourselves for some shopping. Then back to the apartment for a siesta and the second local concert, this time CrossNova. The instruments were all classical but the music was more like indie-folk, very playful. Very pleasant to spend an hour sitting in deckchairs in a sunny park with a bottle of beer being entertained.

CrossNova (Friday):

We ate in that night because five weeks of restaurant dining for lunch and dinner would be too much - we try and alternate. 

Saturday 06: As always on a Saturday we did a a parkrun. Donaupark is a three lap, flat course around a lovely park. Heading to the start Mary saw a hare! 

Mary volunteered as a parkwalker and got to wear the blue tabard. 

Back home for the essential shower and lunch. 

We had spotted an advert for a concert in St Stephen's Cathedral: Bruckner's Mass in D Minor so treated ourselves to a couple of good seats. We went back into the city centre for an pre-concert supper at Kuckuck, in a building is over 400 years old, and then off to the cathedral. 

The choir was composed of groups from several different countries who came together especially for this concert [About the event]: 

"Celebrate the 200th anniversary of Anton Bruckner's birth by listening to his Mass in D minor and Locus Iste in Vienna's iconic St. Stephen's Cathedral. Bruckner's 1st Mass is considered a monumental work that solidified his place as a groundbreaking composer. The performance of this composition was a resounding success with critics and audiences alike, propelling Bruckner to new heights in the world of symphonic music.

Led by Gerald Wirth, President and Artistic Director of the Vienna Boys' Choir, the masterpiece will be meticulously rehearsed in workshops by choir singers from around the globe as part of the Sing Mit! choir festival. The grand finale features performances by acclaimed soloists and the Vienna Cathedral Orchestra, promising an unforgettable musical experience in St. Stephen's Cathedral."

We took to frequenting our local Balkan cafe bar Juzni Vetar where I had my first ever taste of Croatian wine, it was fine. It became our go-to place for a nightcap. After the concert we stopped there where the local lads were watching football, Turkey v. Netherlands for their chance to stay in the competition, creating a great atmosphere. 

Sunday 07: Basically we knew nothing about Austrian wines so we booked a tour with City&Wine and were picked up by our guide Stefan. Around 30 minutes north of Vienna we visited three different vineyards, tasting three whites and a red at each stop, the last one including supper. Full report Austrian wine tasting

Monday 08: Morning we did a guided walking tour given by a local. She was Viennese born and bred and still a local resident. We saw a number of magnificent buildings interspersed with tales of Viennese life. 

Lunch was in Kaffee Alt Wein then more wandering around including St Stephen's Cathedral from the outside.

Tuesday 09: Mary's knee started playing up, possibly a delayed reaction from her tumble at last week's parkrun. Contacting a physio they said you have to be referred by a doctor so on his recommendation we went to a nearby urgent treatment centre. We got there early, no queues. Within the hour Mary had been seen, had three x-rays and then seen a second time to confirm nothing broken and advised rest and a support bandage. Impressive service.

In the afternoon Mary went for swim in the Danube and had a lovely dragonfly to keep her company as she dried off in the sun.

We had supper at Schweizerhaus which offered a decent range of beers on draft and good, wholesome traditional fare.

The service was quick and well organised. Given that place was huge we were most impressed at how slickly run it all was. Schniztel and ćevapčići - excellent!

Next stop: Konstanz on the German-Swiss border.

Sunday, July 14, 2024

My Life in ... Theatre Programmes: The College Years

The seventeenth in an occasional series of alternative Curriculum Vitae because no-one on their death bed says "I wish I'd spent more time in the office"

Recap: Over the years, I have kept just about every theatre programme for every play, dance, performance. The bankers’ box full of programs had grown over the years into two boxes and travelled with me from home to home. The vinyl collection mostly went in 2015 as part of a downsize, the theatre programs were next on the list. I looked at selling them on eBay, as many other people have done, but the effort involved and the prices they would fetch meant it just was not worth the effort. So what I did was scan them, mostly just cover page and cast list. Then off they went to the recycling bin. Exceptions were programs where I knew one of the performers or they were particularly significant productions.

Scanning old theatre programmes is like watching your life flash before your eyes but v-e-r-y slowly. 

Oxford years.

In the four years at Oxford my attendance at the arts was eclectic as is only right and proper at university with everything from Gregorian Chant to Karlheinz Stockhausen with a fair number of theatrical productions thrown in. As I am missing a number of ticket stubs and programmes I am indebted to the geeks and fans of the internet for supplementing my memory.

Oxford University Film Society (1971/1972) My introduction to many classic films including Throne of Blood, Metropolis, Casablanca and the overlong, pretentiously arty Chelsea Girls by Warhol.

Oxford University Orchestra at Oxford Town Hall (01-December-1971). Mozart, Beethoven and Walton. I do remember that one of the percussionists was a red haired biochemist called Arabella who I also saw in another, undocumented concert, playing a brass instrument - versatile lady.

Clerks of Oxenford at Magdalen College Chapel (04-March-1972). Thomas Tallis and a load of 13th century music.

Karlheinz Stockhausen at the Oxford Union (May 1972). I saw Stockhausen when he gave a talk at the Oxford Union [Part 1, Part 2 Part 3]. We were up in the balcony which is where the cheap seats were because we were on a student budget. Stockhausen looked at the almost empty stalls and invited all of us seated upstairs to come on down. So we got excellent top price seats for next to nothing.

Conduct Unbecoming at the Belgrade Theatre (16-May-1972). Well I had the programme so I must have seen it.

Hawkwind at Oxford Polythechnic (10-June-1972). We went as a group to see them and hear their new single "Silver Machine". Two things I remember from the gig were:

  • The roadie doing the sound check didn't bother with "One, Two, Testing". He just went "One, One, One, ...".
  • They had a large, naked lady dancing on the stage who Google informs me was Stacia.

Julius Caesar at RSC Stratford (Summer 1972). My first time seeing a young Patrick Stewart (the next was nearly 40 years later in Waiting For Godot with Sir Ian McKellen). Given the venue it would have been a family outing organised by my parents during the summer holidays. Of course back then the cast names meant nothing to me (Corin Redgrave, Margaret Tyzak, etc.) such is the wisdom of hindsight.s

BBC Proms at the Royal Albert Hall (26-July-1972). This was my first ever Proms with a programme of Mozart, Stravinsky and Bruckner.

  • Mozart Symphony No. 38, in D major (Prague)
  • Stravinsky Capriccio for piano and orchestra
  • Bruckner Symphony No.3, in D minor.

Hertford College Music Society (05-November-1972). My first encounter with the lovely and ever popular "Lark Ascending" conducted by a very young Simon Rattle.

King Crimson at New Theatre (25-November-1972). We were into prog rock and bands like Yes, Soft Machine, Kevin Ayers, The Bonzos. One of our group had the classic album In the Court of the Crimson King. I remember little of the actual gig but a bootleg recording is available at DMG.

Fellow student from my primary school. Catherine Bott in As You Like It at the Talisman Theatre (1972) and again in Venus and Adonis at King's College, London (1974).

 

Fellow student from my secondary school. Jane Broughton Perry in
Androcles and the Lion (1972).

 

... and Saksoon at Teddy Hall (1973).

Schola Cantorum Oxoniensis at St Edmund Hall (17-February-1973). Renaissance music, mostly 16th century.

Jesus Midsummer Ball (1973). A Commemoration ball is a formal ball held by one of the colleges of the University of Oxford in the 9th week of Trinity Term. They start late and go on to the wee small hours. I felt I could not miss out on going to one of these so I asked my friend Jane to be my guest. We saw Steeleye Span and I remember watching Magical Mystery Tour through a slightly alcoholic haze.

Plan and timetable.

Plays at Various colleges (Summer 1973). Many of the colleges had amateur dramatic groups who put on plays during the summer term when I could easily see three performances per week. There were no exams at the end of the second year so it felt like I was a liberty to study less and enjoy more.

  • Androcles And The Lion - Regents Park College 
  • Dom Juan - Brasenose
  • Hadrian VII - Keble Collge
  • Mandrogola - Magdalen
  • Pericles - University College 
  • Volpone - Lady Margaret Hall
  • Saksoon - St Edwards
  • Caravaggio Buddy - ?
  • Hay Fever - Keble College
  • Peer Gynt - Merton College
  • Richard III - Brasenose College
  • Six Characters - Jesus LMH
  • The Cocktail Party - Oriel St Annes
  • The Fall And Redemption Of Man - Teddy Hall
  • The Flies - St Catz
  • The Mad Islands - Wadham College
  • The Seventh Seal - Magdalen
  • Toad Of Toad Hall - Oriel College
  • Venus And Adonis - Kings College

Gregorian Chant (venue and date unknown). One of the more esoteric concerts. Strange to hear Latin spoken with a pronounced American accent.

Ballet Rambert at Oxford Town Hall (date unknown). All I remember is one dance where the dancer wore a brightly coloured cloak which was repeated whipped away to reveal another colour underneath. Or I may have just imagined that.

Mayfly Festival (01-May-1974). It was a small two or three day concert in Oxpens Meadows in Oxford. I have no memorabilia but I believe I must have attended in 1974 because one of my college mates was a huge fan of Gong, Hatfield & the North and Henry Cow. and one of the acts was the Virgin All Stars comprised of members from all three bands.  

It was a lovely sunny day is about all I can remember. I also remember one of the performers saying that he rehearsed and rehearsed so that what you heard when you saw him live was as close as he could make it to the studio album. I am convinced that it was Kevin Ayers but I can find no evidence on the internet of his performing there so perhaps I imagined it was him. Or it may have been some other artist.

Kevin Ayers et al. at The Rainbow (01-June-1974). I do not have the programme but I do have the vinyl as the concert was released as an LP. It was with Pete from college plus Pete’s friend Graham. Graham lived in Greenwich where he ran GAS ((Greenwich Audio Services). He had an amphibious car and a Messerschmitt bubble car that he gave me a lift in to the concert. You whizz along with your bum just inches from the tarmac - scary! 

"The album is officially attributed to all principal performers Kevin Ayers, John Cale, Brian Eno and Nico, although other well-known musicians, including Mike Oldfield, Robert Wyatt, and Ollie Halsall, also contributed to the concert." [Wikipedia]

That is a fair old mix.